Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

black250ex

new to me Big Bear 350 issues

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I was just given a yamaha big bear 350 by my neighbor, and I need some guidance. This quad has definitely lived a hard life but I would like to breathe a little life back into it. It starts up and idles great, and shifts into first fine, but its having a really tough time getting into any gear higher than 1st. When I am able to shift it into a higher gear the shifter gets hung up until i push it back down with my foot. My plan as of now is just to change all the fluids, and adjust the clutch according to the manual and see if that helps at all. Any other ideas are very much appreciated.

Also, I cant find a VIN# anywhere on the thing, but I think its a 1997. Its an "SE" 4x4 with the h/l/r selector right next to the engine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Try this...from neutral pull the shifter up and hold it there and try to move...DON'T DROP IT DOWN WHILE REVVED...if the bike still feels like it's in neutral there and drives good in first your clutch is adjusted fine where it is and can be tedious getting it back.....after that u could try changing your oil if it looks that bad but I'd get a new clutch cover gasket and take the cover off its the big one on right hand side there's about 12 8 mm bolts. An oIL line and your reverse switch......when pulling the cover off there's a few pieces that can fall out a plate with 3 ball bearings in it (fixed) they can't fall out.. a spring and a couple pie shaped gears....all part of your secondary clutch....n just go from there make sure shaft from shifter to cam isn't bent n binding...something in there is probably binding unless it's right inside the crank case.....if it is I have a crank case/transmission I could sell.....I have 1 with the high/lo version off a 99 Kodiak. ..in 2000 they changed the name of the Kodiak to big bear and gave the Kodiak a CVT. ....and I have one off a 350 wolverine without the hi/lo option ..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the response, gangle.

I tried what you said, but when I shift into first and keep the lever up it pulls forward like its in gear. However, I took it for a quick spin and it seemed to shift fine through all the gears. I wasnt able to ride it very long due to some carb issues, but it seemed ok. I changed the oil with Rotella T6 5w40 and also changed the fluid in both diffs, after I get my carb kit I should be able to take it out for a ride and post an update.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How it's running is not ok ....your clutch is out of adjustment. Way out. My guess is the clutch started slipping and the past guy backed the adj. Screw all the way out thinking it would be tighter but it's not...your secondary clutch (clutch pack) is not doing its job at all..it's job is to take the quad out of gear when u push up or down on shift lever just like a standard clutch...that's why your having trouble shifting....what u have to do is turn adj. Screw in 1/8th of a turn. Pull lever up/down. Hold and hit gas. If the quad is trying to move repeat until it doesn't. And once u get that set up so it's not trying to move go for a rip and make sure it doesn't slip....it shouldn't. .. if it does just back it out 1/8th of a turn .....the way it is now is hard on transmission gears...also if clutch is slipping...I won't get tout into it but make sure your running a jaso-MA certified oil...and definitely no synthetics that's aren't jaso-MA approved..they will swell your clutche's cause premature wear and slip

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nvm about oil didn't finish reading your post...I run the same oil it's jaso-MA approved by shell not certified but a proved I run the same stuff in my 400

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I tried adjusting the clutch like you suggested, and no matter how I adjusted it the quad wouldn't go into neutral while holding the shift lever up. Im assuming my clutch is toast?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nope if clutch was toast it'd be slipping there's something wrong inside that clutch cover ..something with the whole secondary shift mechanism. U try turning it both ways? If I remember right they are backwards threads. It might not be worth the hassle with a free bike...it's an easy fix ...without a picture or diagram it's hard to describe how it works n I can't find one...it shouldn't hurt anything if u completely let gas go when shifting...the primary (centrifugal) clutch actually has a one way bearing so if the wheels are spilling the clutch bell (outer part) faster then the cent. clutch is spinning there is no pressure on any gears when shifting.. it's a personal thing is u wanna year it apart n possibly spend a few bucKS giver if not dont

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Asen_77
      Hi All,
      My name is Asen and I am from Eastern Europe, Bulgaria. Riding a Yamaha Raptor 700R and this is my first Quad wanted for a vey long time :)

       
    • By Bruce Sawyer
      1987 YFM350FWTB 350 4x4 Big Bear when going uphill will sometimes act like the clutch realeases then re-engauge all at once.
      Seems to maybe be little more often if the engine is at about 1/2 throttle instead of at lower rpms.
      I have the Factory Service manual and checked the external clutch adjustment screw as ok and the H/L/reverse shifter lever linkage as adjusted correctly. It appears to be maybe a internal (inside the case) clutch issue or ??
      This is the type Big Bear that has the manual shift lever on the left front fender and has the manual foot shifter lever with 5 speeds forward.
      Can someone tell me how the primary and secondary clutch operates? 
      I assume one is mechanical and one is centrifugal. (what I'm asking is one clutch for the higher rpms and one for the lower rpms or ???. (the clutch appears to only momentarily release at the higher rpms is why I ask. The cycle has about 3000 miles of low speed through the brush hunting and has been well maintained, oil changed, etc and no deep water or mud useage.
      Anyone been into a similar issue with the big Bear ATV????
    • By Dwight Williams
      Ok, so I bought this scream of a deal the other day - a 94 King Quad 300 for $40.00.  It's been sitting outside with no carburetor on it for about a year.  Its rusty, missing some parts, wiring is all cut up and spliced etc.  No seat, no racks but the plastic is all there minus the headlight housing.  Anyway, who can pass up a $40.00 quad right?  I get it home and looked at the sight glass for oil level, it's about 1/2 oil and 1/2 water.  I drain it, refill it and turn the motor by hand (recoil starter is missing) and it turns over just fine.  I worked on the wiring for about an hour and got it to turn over with the electric starter and got enough of it sorted out to get a spark.  Did a quick compression test, 70 lbs.  Wet test bumped it up to 90.  Ok, so rings and cylinder washed out with water for a year, not too surprised.  I thought 'what the hell' and sprayed some starting fluid in it and it ran for about 2 seconds - enough to show  it's got life.  Since then the compression has gotten worse, I can't get enough pressure to activate the carb diaphragm, therefore no fuel pump either.  The compression is now around 60.
        Anyway, my question is....is it worth it to try to get this thing going?  I tore the top end down today and the cam and one of the rockers is pretty worn.  I figured a top end job would be about $100 or so, depending on the condition of the cylinder but I'll probably have to put a cam and rockers in it as well.  Doing some research on ebay I figure I'll have to spend about $500-$700 to make the whole machine right again.  Much less just to make it run and use as-is but I won't really like it until it's right.  I don't mind doing the work, I actually enjoy it but I'm concerned about what all that water did to the rest of the internals, I can't really test it all out until I can make it run.
      I know it's a basket case but I'm not into it much at all, even if I do the top end and find something else wrong I'm still not out much.  I'm leaning toward ordering the top end parts and going from there unless you can convince me otherwise - any way to check the rest of the internals without tearing it down?  I plan on flushing the oil cooler before I do another oil change, I've drained it twice now and it gets milky almost immediately just turning the starter - I suspect the oil cooler is polluted badly.
       
      I'll get some pictures today if anyone want to see them.
       
      thanks!
    • By JacobSlabach
      got 7 atvs off CL recently for a good price.  one of which is a yamaha warrior.  anyone know where the vin is printed on this bike?  Haha good place to start as I do not know year or size yet.  The former owner says needs exhaust ans and clutch work.  he said it ran fine until the clutch cable broke and then I couldn't get the new cable adjusted right and it would grind gears.  things I see:  clutch cable locked up again, no brakes, carb leaking (green with algae around the bowl and has gelled gas stalagtights on it), aftermarket exhaust melted the airbox so I need something different and a new air box.  I would like the use the current exhaust if I can but I have a feeling its a redneck fix as it looks like there is an ace bandage holding it to the exhaust pipe (its an aftermarket slip-on exhaust), so I'm not sure about that- lets get the bike running first.  also, battery (looks brand new, what a shame) is dead, 0 volts.  Otherwise, bike looks to have not been wrecked, and plastics are ok (it sat outside under a 'tarp' for 3+ years since it was run last).  any tips and advise on where to start first would be awesome as this is my first clutched bike (manual).
      the clutch is my main concern- I've never rode a clutched bike so I dont even know what its supposed to feel like.  lol I'm spoiled on my automatic polaris 
    • By Colin Davis
      Does anybody know where I can buy a complete wiring harness for a Yamaha bear tracker. If not could someone send me a picture of the the colors of the wires coming out of the cdi plug and voltage rectifier. So I can get an idea of how I need to wire it. Also where can I find a wiring diagram for them?
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Nate Hanson
      I am a new atv owner...I bought a used atv this summer (pretty sure it is a wolverine but reg card from last owner didnt actually say that so idk for sure). It ran great for most the summer and early fall but one day I tried starting it and it turned over a while without starting and then suddenly it quit turning over at all. No click or anything.
      I charged battery and light turns on showing neutral and heatlight can go on.
      A few other things that may be pertinent: The pull start is missing, I have a fluke multimeter but not many other advanced tools (or relevant experience), there is an extra aftermarket led light attached to front but it doesnt work either... never looked into why since I didnt need it. 
      I looked for a fuse box and didnt find one.
      Please recommend some easier things to try first as I really want to avoid taking it in if I can (having one income and 4 kids can keep out extra cash, plus I want to learn). Pictures would be awesome if possible. Thanks! 
    • By Kanyon Pershing
      I have recently rebuilt my Yamaha warrior 350 engine and when I got it all back together with no “spare parts” i went to start it and realized it’s in reverse. I went to put it in drive and the shifter won’t budge, I took the linkage off and tried to use vise grips but it won’t budge at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’m hoping it’s not something internal! 
    • By YamahaBB350
      I have a Yamaha Big Bear 350 and the reverse doesn’t work, it shifts from low to high easily but it won’t go back to reverse. I’m new to this stuff, so I’ll take any help. Any ideas? 
    • By Colin James Krepela
      So here's the deal people, I have an old Avenger 350 4X4 Shaft Driven ATV. They only made them in the early 80's their thought of as the first four wheelers from around back when Suzuki made one in 1982. I believe the engine on it is a Kohler as I watched this video https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=avenger+400+atv&view=detail&mid=1E10E939019CA07770031E10E939019CA0777003&FORM=VIRE but mine is a 350. That's if its original, and it all looks original. I am wondering where I can get parts for this engine, or really what engine is it. I have no way to find the year, unless you guys know where a serial number might be. Every sticker is worn off. IF anyone has any information at all on these old wheelers it would be greatly appreciated. I specifically need the gaskets for the carb, and don't tell me I could build them please I want to restore it as perfectly as I can. I can take pictures of the wheeler/carb if it'll help. Let me know.
    • By oleskool
      Has new top end, piston, rings, valves, etc. great compression, good spark, plenty of fuel. Valves have been set. timing has been tripled checked. Can not get it to start. any ideas suggestions on anything I am missing. Also if anyone has the service manual it would be greatly appreciated.

      Thanks
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...