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gangle04

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Everything posted by gangle04

  1. gangle04

    gangle04

  2. Well glad u figured It out without putING any money into it..it usually ends up being the simple things that are over looked
  3. Nope if clutch was toast it'd be slipping there's something wrong inside that clutch cover ..something with the whole secondary shift mechanism. U try turning it both ways? If I remember right they are backwards threads. It might not be worth the hassle with a free bike...it's an easy fix ...without a picture or diagram it's hard to describe how it works n I can't find one...it shouldn't hurt anything if u completely let gas go when shifting...the primary (centrifugal) clutch actually has a one way bearing so if the wheels are spilling the clutch bell (outer part) faster then the cent. clutch is spinning there is no pressure on any gears when shifting.. it's a personal thing is u wanna year it apart n possibly spend a few bucKS giver if not dont
  4. Really seems to me like your float is out of adjustment in your carb...the needle valve that controls fuel level in bowl...going up hill pushes fuel to back of carb make float sit higher stopping fuel from coming in sooner I'd make sure your float level is at spec
  5. Nvm about oil didn't finish reading your post...I run the same oil it's jaso-MA approved by shell not certified but a proved I run the same stuff in my 400
  6. How it's running is not ok ....your clutch is out of adjustment. Way out. My guess is the clutch started slipping and the past guy backed the adj. Screw all the way out thinking it would be tighter but it's not...your secondary clutch (clutch pack) is not doing its job at all..it's job is to take the quad out of gear when u push up or down on shift lever just like a standard clutch...that's why your having trouble shifting....what u have to do is turn adj. Screw in 1/8th of a turn. Pull lever up/down. Hold and hit gas. If the quad is trying to move repeat until it doesn't. And once u get that set up so it's not trying to move go for a rip and make sure it doesn't slip....it shouldn't. .. if it does just back it out 1/8th of a turn .....the way it is now is hard on transmission gears...also if clutch is slipping...I won't get tout into it but make sure your running a jaso-MA certified oil...and definitely no synthetics that's aren't jaso-MA approved..they will swell your clutche's cause premature wear and slip
  7. Try this...from neutral pull the shifter up and hold it there and try to move...DON'T DROP IT DOWN WHILE REVVED...if the bike still feels like it's in neutral there and drives good in first your clutch is adjusted fine where it is and can be tedious getting it back.....after that u could try changing your oil if it looks that bad but I'd get a new clutch cover gasket and take the cover off its the big one on right hand side there's about 12 8 mm bolts. An oIL line and your reverse switch......when pulling the cover off there's a few pieces that can fall out a plate with 3 ball bearings in it (fixed) they can't fall out.. a spring and a couple pie shaped gears....all part of your secondary clutch....n just go from there make sure shaft from shifter to cam isn't bent n binding...something in there is probably binding unless it's right inside the crank case.....if it is I have a crank case/transmission I could sell.....I have 1 with the high/lo version off a 99 Kodiak. ..in 2000 they changed the name of the Kodiak to big bear and gave the Kodiak a CVT. ....and I have one off a 350 wolverine without the hi/lo option ..
  8. Does it smoke more when warm or cold??? What could be some attributes to factor in or out
  9. Are we talking steep enough hills that it would change the float level enough to run to lean?? Short hills the fuel level wouldn't be changed enough to be effecTed? ?? Just a thought
  10. Dont kno if i would exactly call it a missfire but sometimes when i fist get on my quad( after letting it warm up with choke for five mins ) and rip away usually right after shifting it will miss 1 spark blow that air/fuel into exhaust and backfire then run normal sometimes itll do this 2-3 times aways in the beginning of a ride usually if i warm it up a little less then usual, just curious what would cause this. It did it since i got the quad 6 months ago and theres a different head cyl. And piston in it now...also what would cause oil to stop flowing into a head??? Or did i screw something up??? On the new head i noticed oil poors out behind cam sprocket on the old one it didnt
  11. Figured it out got clutches off kodiak there the same clutch pack and cent clutch on all 3 bikes..different basket on the wolverine driven clutch...gonna use the centrifugal clutch off the kodiak and clutch pack off the wolverine .....to get the driven clutch off the kodiak what do you people us to hold it still to get not off??? My impact gun is air and i domt have access to air at this point(between jobs)
  12. Ok got the clutches out of the wolverine and they look great compared to the bb the basket is almost full where as the bb had 3/4" space im thinking the clutch was already done no my question is is the nut that holds on the cent. Clutch backwards threads?? Had to abuse that motor to get clutches out and cant do that with bb n i need the cent clutch off to get at clutch pack....any help would be apreciated thanks
  13. All wiring connections will be different iv got a 350 wolverine 97 and kodiak 400 98 i use for parts on my 02 bb400 if u need help with matching up parts i can help im trying to find out if the wolverine and bb/kodiak have the same clutch part# right now n cant find em anywhere
  14. polaris has a bettwer 4wd system, smoother ride and at a good price...can am and polaris both have there problems i wouldnt say one has more then the other but polariss cost less to fix. there both good competitors most people would say polariss quality has went down the last few years seams as though there trying to cut corners and save money..95precent of em are built in mexico now, there axles are getting weaker and weaker. i bought a new sp 500efi the only new bike i ever bought and if i could do it again i would of bought a yamaha. ive owned 4 used yamahas and never had any major issues with them mabye a few hundred dollars in parts every year or 2....my polaris was 1000 here 1000 there every few weaks its running fine now but its to expencive to keep fixing so it sits while i ride my big bear 400 that never brakes unless i brake it...polaris makes a good snow plow tho
  15. the older sportsman were known to have soft cams the problem is theres only one cam lobe opening 2 valves and if your not on top of setting your valves regularly they tighten up and never give the cam a break(in contact at all time) and wear it out very quickly valve clearance is .006 intake and exhaust...im guessing u lost quite a bit of power for a while up to when all this happend...good luck hope its just the gasket for your sake
  16. they dont have an actuater they have a set of clutches in the front diff that engage the front wheels as soon as the rear slip and the front locks up(true 4 wheel drive).....does your pod say your in H or L or is that blank when in H?????
  17. oh well swap em out of my parts bike should of just switched the hole motor out i took the head, cyl, and piston off it just last week, hopefully the clutches are in as good as condition as the top end
  18. i kno0 theres 2 clutches as posted above i took the cover off, that does make sense the oil level rising on the clutch side of crank case pushing this bad oil up to cent clutch, ill change the oil when i have a chance n see if it helps...it seems to be happening less now those additives are probably breaking down, i just used petro can cheapo stuff because i got a case for free
  19. ive done it tightend it so much i have to wait for the right rpm to shift it helps but went out riding again and in 5th drifting left again it seams like clutch disengages quit a bit, makes no sence, soon as i straighten out clutch grabs, its also alot easier to shift into 4th n 5th then 1,2,3 i have 2 parts bikes mabye ill put the clutch off the kodiak in it and switch to proper oil.....do u kno if a wolverine clutch would be interchangable?? pretty sure its the same bottom end except h/l option
  20. ya i figured that but ive ran this oil before and even syn on my wolverine by accident and it didnt make it slip like this it feals like its pretty much disengaging the clutch (barely any drag on the motor) then all of a sudden engaging when it stops slipping, thats why i figured my foot was pulling up on the gear shifter...i took to cover off yesterday and both the cent. clutch and clutch pack still have abit of pad on em
  21. SORRY dont set your valve lash to that....thats for older bb400s, everything is the same but youll have to look up your own valve lash for your 08
  22. to time the big bear take your cam sprocket cover off and line the line on the sprocket up with the mark on the head(youll see it) then take the little plastic plug out under the h/l/r shifter, top left side of crank case and you should see the little t on the flywheel if you dont turn your motor over by hand(pull start removed) untill you do, if that line on the sprocket is a link off mark a link and spot on the sprocket remove you cam chain tensioner(big bolT THEN SMALL 2) remove sprocket and move your sprocket clockwise or counter clock wise as many links as it was off from the mark(this is why you need to mark your chain/sprocket. then put sprocket back on , check timing make sure it now lined up, put chain tensioner back in(2 small bolts then big one(this is important)) check again make sure timing marks all line up, then put cover and plug back on, good idea to check valves at this time to line up cam line with marking on head pop off your valve covers, check intake is between .002-.004 and exhaust is between .006-.008, if not adjust them....this is assuming you have a feeler gauge and know how to set valves
  23. i noticed my clutch slipping yesterday and trying to figure it out today. this makes no sense to me at all but i have it pinned down to when im in a higher gear 4th,5th, and turning left hard on the throttle??? i noticed when taking a corner in 5th drifting and all of a sudden it slipped and i could rev it over and over and it didnt fully engage untill i straightend out, so to put it to the test i found a big patch of snowy ice and started doing a big donut in 4th and hit a sandy part and it started slipping and kept slipping untill i straightened out, then did this a few more times to confirm......does this make any sence to anyone???? i also did it turning right to check if it does it then and i couldnt get it to do it....i also made sure my foot wasnt pulling up the shift lever because i convinced myself i must of been doing that and im not, theres no sounds to indicate splines worn out and slipping just the sound of the motor revving any help would be appreciated, im going to go tear into the clutch right now and see what i can find also to add i did just change the oil and i didnt use atv oil but why would it do this when turning left??? could it be the force pushing oil to be higher on the clutch pack???
  24. looking for someone that might have a 02big bear 400 service manual that theyd be willing to post online for me to download, dont seam to have the non cvt big bear posted on the service manual thread

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