Can't suggest any dress up mods but you might consider adding an accessory socket to it if it doesn't already have one. Comes in handy to run a small 12v air compressor or other small 12v accessories . All you need is an aftermarket accessory socket , 15 amp inline fuse , some 14 gauge wire and connectors and a hole saw or cutter to bore the hole for the socket in the plastics. Get a socket that has the rubber cover to keep the crud out when it is not in use.

I'm not into racing and find fourstrokes more leisurely to ride.. Quieter, less critical about revs or gears.. and they go longer before they develop that annoying piston rattle..

Hi. If it's the diff or the front cv on the axles, it will probably be a muffled noise because of the oil and diff housing, or the grease and rubber boots. If it's a clear sharp noise I'd guess it's the front driveshaft universal from the engine to the front diff. The tone of the noise should give some indication which it is. The driveshaft universals don't have the protection of rubber boots and are the ones to wear out most often too.. I'd suspect it's the driveshaft. The driveshaft universal is easy to get your hands on. Just reach in there and try rotating the shaft a little, or push and pull the shaft to the side of the bike and check for sidewards play, there should be none. The universal is a bit of a bugger to do because you need to dismantle it in place, then put it together in place again as well.. unless you have a special dealer tool to undo the bolt to take the shaft away from the gearbox. The good news is that the universal joint is an excellent design and as far as universal joints go, it's almost foolproof. Most uj you need to be very careful as you put the cups into the yoke and onto the cross because it's really easy to dislodge a needle roller. On these crosses you can slip the cup into the yoke and onto the cross without having to press the cup far in, and then the other side cup goes in and onto the cross before it has a chance to drop a needle.. If you've done a car universal you will know the normal problem that requires you to press the cup a long way in till the cross is poking out the other side, then get the cup on the second side and press the whole lot back to the centre of the yoke. You don't have to do that with these ujs. The hardest part is getting the circlips on and off. The cups also seem to slip most of the way into the yoke too before you have to start tapping or using a g-clamp on it. They look daunting, but are a lot easier than it looks.. If you've done a uj before you should have no trouble. Good thinking Dave.. could be wheels..

Do you know if a previous owner had any problems with either differential? I'm wondering if one of them has been replaced with one with a slightly different ratio. Another thing that could cause a binding and unloading is replacing the stock wheel sizes with another . Gear ratios and wheel diameters are inter-related . If there is a mismatch between the front and rear you can get binding that might be the cause of the clanking sound as it binds and releases