Actually, there's a better way to test your clutch.. The first bit of movement of the shift lever operates the clutch, and then the gears move. If you change down a gear and keep your toe on the lever you will be holding the clutch in, and if you then let the bike roll down to a lower speed and then rev the engine before letting your toe up, that plate clutch is going to get dropped with the engine revving and it should try to rocket you forwards. If the slippage is caused by a worn out clutch then dumping the clutch like that is going to make it slip badly. If the clutch is good still, and it's only the non-self centering that's the problem , then dumping the clutch like that after a down shift will hopefully make the clutch grab and rocket you forwards as it should. You could try the same technique on a down and an up shift and compare the results to try and decide whether it's a worn clutch, bad linkages, or a bit of both.

Ok, if it's made worse by shifting up but not down then it sort of points to the plate clutch. The shift lever has some linkages that operate the plate clutch. The clutch gets operated before the gears begin to shift, so the first bit of lever movement up or down is only operating the clutch.. If an up shift causes the clutch to slip, but after a downshift the clutch feels fine again, even if you are accelerating in that lower gear after a shift, then I'd say your lever, or the linkages, aren't coming right back to center after an up shift, so the clutch is being held slightly on(slipping). I'd disconnect the shift cable at the box and check it's free and then I'd feel by hand whether the shift lever on the side of the box seems to self center fully after an up shift... Then, if you are sure the upshift is making it bad, and the downshift fixes it(test it by doing a downshift from fifth to forth and then accelerating hard), I'd inspect the internal linkages operating the clutch.. as I was inspecting the plate clutch.

Gentlemen. Please..let's not turn this into a sh** show...we all have opinions. Right or wrong who cares...just ignore the ones you don't like and enjoy the ones you do.

Being able to weld is a great thing.. especially in the country.

Yes I would have assumed it was a 12 volt auxillary outlet......I have one on my fender......Its a shame you do not have a welder......An A arm is pretty simple to fabricate.......I would be sh** out of luck without my Miller.......I could not even imagine how much money I have saved over the years making and fixing my own parts.......They are so worth the investment and it has paid for itself a hundred times over......Good luck and I hope you are at the end of putting money into it.

JASO MA is basically oil without the friction modifiers invented recently. So it's basically the old oil you're referencing. JASO MA is a way of avoiding the new stuff. Same goes for the SF that I use. Says on the bottle "1988 and earlier". That means it's your clutch pack and not the centrifugal clutch. That means either your engine is low on oil, or your clutch isn't adjusted right, or your oil is too slippery, or your clutch disks are too worn. Check the oil level. I know it's not easy with that sight glass. Sometimes it helps to jack up one side of the atv until you can see a line of oil. Be sure the oil level is right before going to the trouble of tearing the engine apart. If the oil level is ok and you're sure the clutch is adjusted right then you may as well order some clutch disks and springs. Soak the fiber disks in the correct oil at least overnight. I'd go to thumpertalk and ask which oil they use. There are more people there. The oil I use isn't available anymore and Mech doesn't know what he's talking about. I'd want at least 2 guys to agree on the same recommendation and there's not enough people here for that. Or you could just buy the expensive stuff that says ATV on the bottle. For example https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-4-Stroke-ATV-UTV-SAE-10W-40-Motor-Oil-1-QT/19514362 Don't forget to get a new oil filter. I refill the oil through the intake valve inspection cap. It's way easier. There's a hole in the frame that will fit a long skinny funnel.

Also... the standard test as set out in the manual, testing first engagement revs, and then full lock-up under load revs, should give a good indication of centrifugal clutch wear.. and allow us to deduce if the plates are the culprit.. sometimes.. maybe.. haha If the first engagement revs are right, then the centrifugal clutch shoes are not very worn, and so if we get slippage at and beyond full lockup revs, then we are likely seeing plate slippage. If it's late to start moving at the start of engagement revs though, then we can assume the centrifugal shoes are worn, and if we then get slippage at full lockup and beyond revs it might well be the centrifugal clutch.. but it might be both clutches worn.. The only way to be sure we are replacing the correct clutch is by stripping them and measuring and inspecting..

The book I looked in shows the cam cover breather going to the airbox front upper left.

Yeah conveyor belt is even better. With the mud flaps I had to patch it together a bit because they weren't long enough.