There was one listed for the 06 model as mech said part # 53411-31G02 MUDFLAP, FENDER INNER RH

Yup, I'd advocate for the OEM overhaul over an unknown make any day.. Even with worn slides and carb body, they are still a better bet than some of the aftermarket carbs. As for the initial setting... some aftermarket use their own, different, threads on the idle mixture screw, and different taper. Set it where you like initially and adjust it once it's going and warmed up.

Yeahhhh....ALWAYS better to rebuild OEM. I've been forced to use chinese junk a couple times due to missing carb on some junk ones I've put back together and they never run as good as OEM. Even if you get them to run pretty decent they usually last a year or two and the cheap rubber seals fall apart.

I looked in Aussie, euro and yanky sites and they all seem to say that part only came out in the 700 in 2006. What appears to be the identical part, cross referenced from what other models parts fit, appears in the 450 of 02...

Yeah well I can't find an 02 700 KQ listed at all. That link you supplied says it's for 05. Are you in America Krazo ? Might pay to look at european parts lists.. In that link you posted I backtracked and found this... https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/atv/2005/kingquad-lt-a700x/mudguard.. It's not that is it ? I looked in Europe.. same parts.... forget that plan.

Oh.. The last thing I should mention.. I promise.. Sometimes to get it where we need it, we have to move a half link forwards(by moving one crank link), and then a whole link backwards(by moving the chain one link on the cam).

From another thread.. Your G/son might like to read it. People that have a half link out timing have huge trouble understanding how to move it a half link, so I wrote this a while ago... To do as I suggest and move the cam by a half link, you don't need to drop the chain off the crank. For the sake of an example we will say that with the crank timing marks lined up, the cam timing marks are a half tooth to the right(clockwise), and that the cam timing marks on the bike we are working on are straight up and down. If the timing marks are flat across then you could put a mark straight up and down. All you need to do is hold the chain at the top, in line with the mark on the cam sprocket, you will be holding a link that's slightly to the right of the very top, then pull the sprocket away from the cam and drop it down and work the chain off the sprocket without letting go of the link. Now turn the crank till the chain has moved one link through your fingers. In this example the crank would need rotating to the right(clockwise). Now slip the cam sprocket up or back in and fit the timing mark(or the mark you'd made), back into the link between your fingers. Put the sprocket on the cam. Now you have the cam timing mark, the mark that used to be a half link to the right, back right where it used to be, looking a half link to the right.. But.. when you turn the crank the one link's worth of rotation it needs to get it's marks lined up again, (to the left/anti-clockwise), the cam is going to move half the distance, which is half a link. Both marks line up. Turn the cam till the bolt holes line up and put the bolts in. Just know it can be moved by a half link P5200, and plan accordingly. Aim to get the marks slightly advanced for a new chain.

If your links are a half inch long each then it will be right. If they are shorter you may get it slightly better.. Another consideration is that the chain is going to stretch a bit in the first short time and allow the cam to retard itself slightly.. If those 1/8ths are retarded you might be better to adjust it a half link so it's a little advanced. If you got it to 3/16 advanced it would move back the 1/16 pretty soon and then be in a good place for the subsequent stretching of the chain as the slippers wear and the chain stretches with use. We can always get them within a quarter of a link one side of the mark or the other, but it's sometimes best to set them up a little beyond that if we know the initial stretch is going to work in our favour and bring it closer than a quarter link. If the options are getting it a little advanced or a little retarded, it's better generally to choose the advanced option, anticipating the stretch will bring it within a quarter of a link of perfect soon. Remember we can adjust the cam timing by a half a link at a time, and choose the best option for that new chain accordingly. If we are fitting a used chain that isn't going to have any initial stretch then we factor that in.