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I am new to the forum scene. I am working on a project that is relatively unique and hope to maybe share some of my experiences while tapping into some expertise out there. Mid-life Crisis Project: 2001 Yamaha 660 Raptor converting to street legal, shifter golf cart. Here's what I have done so far: Rebuilt the motor and trans from ground up. DOT approved tires, turn signal kit, etc., then got the quad licensed for street. Chopped it up, leaving enough of the frame in place to still have the vin stamp and mounted it to an aluminum golf cart body. Had to shorten swingarm 6 inches and stretch front of body to fit. Spacers on rear wheels and built adapters for fronts to accept and mount a set of rears on the front. Therefore, in true golf cart fashion, front and rear tires and wheels match. Custom fabricated front suspension with rack and pinion steering is done. Fiberglass body is done and mounted(had to stretch body 8 inches to accommodate engine size, make a 2 piece mold, then make the body from the mold). Engine compartment near completion. Currently working on 2 piece mold for rear compartment which will house 2 subwoofers, fuel tank and have mounts to hold golf bags. Racing bucket seats ready to install with 4pt harnesses. Design complete for push button parking brake and reverse using linear actuators. Next step is double tube roll bar. There are probably going to be many areas that I could use some advice on, but here's what I am currently trying to figure out.....Braking system and exhaust. For brakes, I am leaning toward Wilwood. Not sure if I can do a floor mount, swing or reverse swing. Once I get the seats actually mounted, I will figure that part out. However, I am trying to figure out the best configuration. I will be using the stock front and rear disc brake system attached to the Wilwood pedals. Dual master cylinder for brakes and single with slave for clutch. Here's where I get lost(I may be lost already)-No idea if it will work and no idea what size cylinders to use. They come in 1/2 to 1". One master would be controlling both front brakes, one a single rear(I am considering the idea of adding another rear caliper to the other side of the swing-arm, but want to go through the test phase first). Not sure where to start and anyone with some brake experience who wants to chime in please do. Engine has dual exhaust. I re-packed them, but still WAY too loud if I even want to attempt to take it on a golf course. My intention is to try to add an inline muffler to each line. I know I will lose some power, but hopefully will be able to jet it to run well. Any suggestions on exhaust would be welcome also. If there is any interest, I can post pics and be happy to go into any further detail in areas. I am taking my time, as I am about a year into it and work on it when I need my away time in my happy place(shop). I have access to all the cool tools, including CNC and not afraid to drop some money into it. This looked like a pretty cool forum, so I thought I would throw this in and see if there is any interest. Thanks in advance.

Hello all, my first post, be gentle. My son just purchased a 1985 LT 250 EF and we can’t seem to get fuel to carburetor? The fuel lines are good, we vacuumed some fuel from the main and reserve lines, but still can’t get it to the bowl when starting. Our compression isn’t the greatest (120), and we will be doing a leak down test when the test kit gets here. In the meantime, I’m thinking fuel pump issues? Is there a way to test the fuel pump? Or any other suggestions? Thanks And no we don’t have the service manual for the LT 250 EF yet, it came with the “1985-1990 Suzuki LT230 & LT250 Service * Repair * Maintenance Manual” which is close but not correct.

!20 lbs should be enough to get it going. I'd check the valve clearances though because a tight inlet(or exhaust), will bugger up the vacuum which the pump needs. If your fuel tap has off, on and res then fuel should flow out freely on either of the two running positions. If the tap has on, prime and res, then it needs a vacuum applied to the back of it to make fuel flow on either of the two running positions, but fuel should flow freely in the prime position. If fuel doesn't flow freely in either type then you need to take the tap out and check it's sieve which is inside the tank. The fuel pump operates off vacuum. The way to test the fuel pump is, with the tap on, pull the fuel hose off the carby, and lay it on it's side into a bottle. Then find the vacuum hose that goes to the pump. On most models it's a fatter middle hose on the left side of the carby. The fuel hose is left rear. Trace both hoses though to be sure. The other hose on the left side supplies vacuum to the tap. So, with the fuel hose on it's side in a bottle, suck two or three times hard on the pump vacuum hose till there is a good strong vacuum built up, then release it suddenly. The fuel should come out of the fuel hose as a full diameter slug of petrol about ten or so mills long. If the fuel comes out full diameter then the pump works, but we need to test it is getting enough vacuum with the motor running. The pump needs a nice strongly fluctuating vacuum to work, so if the vacuum hose is old and soft, or been replaced with thin walled hose, the hose can partially collapse with the fluctuations causing not enough fluctuation at the pump. Check the vacuum hose is thick walled and sound. You could prime the carby by putting the fuel hose back on the carby and sucking repeatedly on the pumps vacuum hose, or, gravity feed fuel to the carby to fill it for the next test. To test it running, we leave the fuel hose in the bottle, on it's side(on it's side is important), but we reconnect the vacuum hose to the carby. Start the motor and with it idling the fuel should come pulsing out of the fuel hose, still pretty near full diameter but a shorter squirt. There's one more test for the pump once you get the bike running, which is to check the vacuum the bike produces is adequate when the motor is under load. To test that we do all the same test, tap on prime, fuel hose in bottle, vacuum hose on, but we hop on the bike, put the brakes on , start it, put it into gear, and open the throttle till the motor starts laboring. With a load on the motor the vacuum drops away, but if the motor is tuned, the valves adjusted, no air leaks anywhere loosing vacuum, there should still be enough vacuum to keep a near full diameter slightly pulsing flow of fuel out of the fuel hose laying on it's side. If you have the hose dangling down, the fuel dribbles out continuously and it's real hard to tell if it's a decent full diameter flow.

I decided to go with Suzuki EcStar 5000 mineral oil, I know suzuki doesn't make their own oil but I was getting a headache trying to figure out which oil was best, I have a tendency to over engineer things. . This oil for this engine that oil for another and then there's the 0w-16 oil I don't know how you get a 0 wt oil. Im from the old days when you used Castrol GTX in your motorcycle and whatever brand you liked for your car. Example: A little off subject but, my daughter got a Volvo XC 60 4 cylinder turbo, she was using a oil change place to get her oil changed, no dipstick, you check the oil electronically, oil light kept coming on after just a few hundred miles, took it to dealer they said they were putting the wrong oil in it , bottom line, castrol and Volvo got together and made an oil specifically for their cars Castrol Edge Volvo, it says Volvo right on the bottle, the only oil for this car, not the same castrol edge you get everywhere else. So I think this may be why I went with the suzuki oil, this little experience took everything that I thought I knew about oil and lubrication and threw it right out the window. Sorry to be so long winded this was an experience I wanted to share.