DirtDemon

The first thing do is change all the fluids and filters, put fresh gas and a fresh plug in it and check the vavles. If it still runs poorly after that, I would move to cleaning the carb. Take it off the quad, take it comletely apart and clean everything, all holes and passages, make sure not to lose anything, there are some small parts in there. Keep an eye out for damaged gaskets and seals. If you still have problems after cleaning the carb, then do a compression test. Please keep us posted on any developments and feel fee to ask as many questions as you want. I would also recommend getting a service manual, they are well worth the money.

Thanks for the kind words sir.

When initially starting up, your machine's ignition runs off of the battery, once the machine has started and you let go of the start button, it should be running off of the stator. Since your machine dies as soon as it is supposed to be switching to the stator, I would think that your stator or your regulator/rectifier could be the source of your problem. You should also check your entire electrical system from the battery out for shorts, damaged wires and loose or corroded connections and grounds. If you have a repair manual, there are some direct resistance tests you can perform with a multimeter. If you don't have a repair manual, I would suggest looking into one. A Clymer, Chilton or Haynes manual can be found for around $30-35, a factory manual will run around $85, but well worth the money IMO.

That sucks man, I hope you can find something that suits your needs.

Any manufacturer or dealer will tell you that whatever oil the manufacturer makes is "specially formulated for use in your machine". However, any oil that meets the manufacturers rating standards is going to work fine. I prefer sythetic blends because they provide better protection thatn straight petroleum based oils, but aren't as expensive and I have heard that full synthetics are not as good for wet clutch machines. Just my 2 cents.

There are two adjustable linkage rods, one is for low range, the other is for high range and reverse. I would assume that the neutral position is between the formward and reverse positions. So if you can get from neutral to reverse or from neutral to forward, but you don't have enough throw to get all the way from forward to reverse, then I would think you have some excessive freeplay in the shifting mechanism somewhere. It could be the linkage itself, the shift lever, or even inside the gearbox, the shift forks could be worn or maybe the forks are working in overly worn grooves. If you can't adjust to the point where you can hit both gears, I would start inspecting every part of the shifting mechanisms starting at the shift lever itself and check for excessively worn parts.

If there was ice in it, that means that there was alot of moisture in there, you might want to try adding some stabilizer to the diff oil. The ice could also have been what was causing things to lock up. Good luck, I hope that was all you needed to do.

Thanks Bio, it is the only clean thing on the quad. BTW, I found some nylon spacers and got some longer bolts for the top, all bolted down tight now. I will probably get it dirty this weekend.

My LT-R has power to the starter, fuel pump, fan and lights as soon as you turn the key on, even if the kill switch is off. I can turn the starter without the kill switch on but, obviously, it won't start. My friends TRX 450R will do the same thing, we noticed this when he almost ran his battery dead trying to get it to start, turns out, his kill switch was off. As soon as he turned it on, it fired up. The CDI box has nothing to do with the starter itself, it is wired only to the stator, coil, pulsar coil and where applicable, the battery. I guess this means we can conclude that some machines have an active starter even with the kill switch off and some do not.

Not I, but HMF makes good stuff IMO, they are usually on the loud side, but it sounds like that one is made to be a bit more quiet. I don't know anyone who has run an HMF and not liked it.

I am sure they are a great quad for an older kid or a small woman. They are nice little bikes, but tiny. I am not even that tall and it still felt cramped when I sat on one. I'm sure that little motor does fine for a 100lb 12 year old or a 120 woman, but I think that 15hp motor would have a hard time pushing my 235lb as* around. I bet it is faster than a Warrior though, they must be 75 or more lbs lighter and only down by 3hp from the Warrior/Raptor 350 which makes a dismal 18hp in a full size quad. I myself think that a Blaster motor would be a better powerplant for the Raptor 250.

That new RAZR is the badass, I would actually consider buying one of those, if I could afford one.

I say it's legal as long as they don't catch you. All kidding aside, I have been riding my ATVs on the snow covered roads around here since I was a kid, I have yet to have any problems with cops telling me that I can't do that. I even ride on the bare roads to get to a local trail system near my house. I have even passed cops on my way. I figure as long as I am not riding like a jackass, I will be ok. I just keep it at a safe reasonable speed, use hand signals, wear a helmet and I don't have problems. When I reach the dirt however, safe reasonable speeds are no longer necessary.

Check at the diff end of the cable. Is the cable still hooked up? Is it moving the lever? Is the return spring broken? There diff lock assembly is basically a clutch, it has a basket several discs similar to that which makes up a manual ATV clutch. This could be stuck somehow. If you can't find the problem on the outside of the diff housing, or the cable isn't broken somewhre in between, you may have to take the outside lock cover off, and inpect the locking mechanism itself. Good luck. Also, a repair manual would help you alot.

Another solid suggestion.

Tip #1, get a repair manual, they are priceless and will have good instructions to help you with this and many other repairs or mods that you may need to make down the road. I have never worked on any Polaris quad, but it does make sense that you would have to take one of the half shafts off, or at least part way off so you can get the chain off the machine. I can't find a decent parts diagram for that machine, so I can't even venture a guess as to how it is done, or how long it might take. There are a couple Polaris guys on the site, hopefully one of them may be able to help you.

We will look forward to hearing from you, good luck sir.

I think both of things could legitimately be your problem, however, it could be a million other things as well. If the machine has been sitting for a while, I would drain the gas and clean the carb, and by clean, I mean take it COMPLETELY apart and clean EVERYTHING. If the problem has been kind of progressive, I would start by checkin the vavle lash and doing a compression test. You can check the exhuast easy enough, so you might as well do that too if there are things that lead you to believe that it may be plugged. I would also try checking for air leaks, and make sure your filter is clean. A new spark plug is also a good idea. BTW, what does your old plug look like, the condition of your plug is often a good indicator.

Maybe your best bet would be to search ebay for a used stock exhuast in good condition.

Agreed, the pilot screw settings are really only a good starting point. Once the machine is running, start turning it in until the machine starts to run poorly, then start turning it back out until you reach the highest idling point. Set it there, and adjust the idle setting if needed.

I have never heard of a forward regulator. If memory serves me correctly, the Quadmaster is the automatic one. If this is correct, there should be a sensor on the right hand side of the motor, plastic thingy with wires coming out of it, two screws holding it in. I think it is on the right side as you are sitting on the machine, if you don't see anything like that there, look on the other side. If you are unsure if you have found the right part, you can take a picture and post it.

I am pretty sure the regulator is inside the fuel pump, Suzuki recommends that you do not disassemble the pump yourself, I usually ignore these things. Should you? That depends on how much confidence you have in your mechanical skills. If you do choose to take it apart and check the regulator, pay attention to how the regulator is installed in the pump so you can be sure you put it back together the same way. I don't know that there is an actual fuel filter, but there is probably some kind of screen on the fuel pump pickup. I would check that and the check vavle in the line on the way to the injector. There is also a temp sensor in your air box that could be causing problems, make sure it is plugged in, clean and un-damaged. I would check all of the simple things first and try to clean the fuel system before taking the pump apart.

dirtdemon thats what i was thinking but mine will not turnover with the kill switch off. Any suggestions?

Either someone messed with the wiring, or your machine is just not wired like that. For all I know your Grizzly could have been wired so that both switches need to be on for the machine to have power at the starter. I am only speaking from experience I have had with other machines, a 1999 Grizzly not being one of them. My best guess tells me that something is wrong, but I am not 100% sure of that. The best way to tell how things are supposed to be wired on your machine is to get ahold of a wiring schematic. The best way to get ahold of a wiring schematic and alot of the other info you need is to get a repair manual. You could inspect the wiring and switches for any signs of damage or poor repair. Make sure that current is flowing through both the key and kill switches.

Welcome sir, glad to have you aboard.

Quite a beautiful area you guys have over there, looks nice.