davefrombc

He likely meant the pick up  coil . it's what  mounted inside the stator  and picks up the pulse from the flywheel magnets

You can get reverse twist drill bits  to drill the  broken  bolt and  extractors to remove it.  one as small as a valve cover bolt would be a challenge to  drill on center but often  with the reverse twist drill bits the  broken  screw/ bolt  will spin  out without needing to use the extractor.

Congrats on getting it running .. It was likely a combination of all  you did that got it to  start rather than any one thing. most motors will run  with  valves widely out  of spec  as long as there is  sufficient compression. They don't run well but  usually  at least try to run.

The set you show there is a 2 step  set.  Each blade has 2 sizes on it . The outer end will be the thinner one .. You'd use the . 010-012  to set the valve at .010.  Then  to  check if it is too  tight at what you felt is .010 you'd drop to the .009 -.010 to see if it was moderately snug on .010  but  slid easily at .009.  Then  to  check the other way to see if you had it too loose you'd go to the .010 - .012  to see if it  slid through the gap  on the .012 portion of the blade ... Precision  Go  ( setting ok) or  No Go (setting too tight or too loose)

Gauges like those are used when  settings are required to be precise and allow a quick  check of the setting when the critical dimension is to the plus or minus side of  center.  Most feeler gauges are single  size for the whole blade. To  check  go or no go with them   you'd try the sizes above and below your desired one to  check accuracy .  Use the gauge with the gap  you want on the outer part of the blade .. if critical  is closer  use the  .010 -.008 gauge if tolerance is .001, or the .010 - .012 if critical  is looser for example . those  blades allow checking with .oo1 or. 002 tolerance levels .

I  would like to  see some of the new battery technology they're working on pan  out with  more capacity and less chance of fire if they get wet.

If worried about running out of juice leaving you stranded,  a small generator  could be carried. It would take some time to  get any amount of juice but it could limp you  back   Some SXS's have enough room for a couple of roof top  solar panels. LOL  Wouldn't get you very far , very  fast , but.......

1 hour ago, davefrombc said:

Check to see if there is power from the battery to the starter.  If there is power there then jump the terminals that trigger the solenoid. If  the starter does not spin  over  then  leave those terminals connected and check to  see if there is power to the starter side of the solenoid. No  power  from  battery to  solenoid ,  the break  is there .  No  power across the solenoid with the trigger wires  jumped , then  fault is in the solenoid, If there is power across the solenoid when the trigger wires are jumped then  fault is in the wire from the solenoid  to the starter.. The  starter is internally  grounded and since it spins over when a wire is run  directly from the positive battery terminal the battery ground is good.  If  everything checks out by  jumping those terminals , the fault is in the start switch, a safety  switch or  the wires to the solenoid and the  click  you  hear when  pressing the start button  is from somewhere else

Couldn't edit  my post when I saw the error.

Check to see if there is power from the battery to the  starter solenoid, not the starter as I  said in the beginning of the post.

Check to see if there is power from the battery to the starter.  If there is power there then jump the terminals that trigger the solenoid. If  the starter does not spin  over  then  leave those terminals connected and check to  see if there is power to the starter side of the solenoid. No  power  from  battery to  solenoid ,  the break  is there .  No  power across the solenoid with the trigger wires  jumped , then  fault is in the solenoid, If there is power across the solenoid when the trigger wires are jumped then  fault is in the wire from the solenoid  to the starter.. The  starter is internally  grounded and since it spins over when a wire is run  directly from the positive battery terminal the battery ground is good.  If  everything checks out by  jumping those terminals , the fault is in the start switch, a safety  switch or  the wires to the solenoid and the  click  you  hear when  pressing the start button  is from somewhere else

It's great to  have members here who  can give specific help  information  Curtis. Ones like myself  can  only give general information and hints of where to look,  mostly from  pre-computerized, carburetted / points and condenser automotive days,  with a smattering of electrical wiring.  Beyond offering guesses  of where to  look and help finding manual  downloads and general  mechanical  info.

Beyond that,  I  have to dig into the manuals myself .

I suspect it  is a fuel  mixture problem..  Have you played with the mixture screws? What notch is the main jet needle  in on the slide?.  Is the idle air screw turned all the way in?.  It  usually  is anywhere from  11/2 to  2 1/2 turns out from  lightly seated.  Have you  downloaded the service manual from  the  downloads section  Here?  you  might get some idea  where to  start on carb settings in it.  If you're getting spark the rectifier  and rest of the ignition system  is likely ok.. getting any kick from the motor when  you choke it with your hand over the inlet is  usually because there is something plugged or badly miss set on the carb. or an air leak  on the inlet making  it far too lean

Take the spark  plug out and turn the motor over to see if you have spark a thumb over the  spark  plug  hole  will give you an  indication if you have at least half way decent compression.  There is a service manual  that covers your quad in the downloads section of the forum.

I  haven't used one. That one was one f many that popped up  on a search and looked like it should mount quite solidly compared to some of the others that came up.

Here's one https://www.theatvsuperstore.com/Suzuki-King-Quad-2-Receiver-Hitch-p/1191cmp.htm

With an ammeter  in the circuit look to see if there is a draw with the key off.  If there is , disconnect the voltage  rectifier / regulator. If the draw stops you  found the culprit .  If  I  diode blows you very well could be showing charging voltage but with a  large ac ripple .  Alternators put out 3 phase ac. The  rectifier turns that into  dc which the regulator limits to  charging voltage , typically 13.2 to 14.5 v.

If a diode goes open  there will be a large ripple in the charging voltage but  if it blows shorted  you will not only  have the ripple  charging and all the unstable electronics that goes with it , but  key off the battery would drain  back through the shorted diode.

Doing a bit of search brings up  several sites where people are seeking help  with Polaris   rectifiers / regulators.

I didn't think to mention this when  I posted.  Yammy may very well  have hit on it .

Have you put an ammeter in line with the battery to see if it is taking any charge? you may be seeing  charging voltage but that doesn't necessarily mean the battery is being charged.. Are the battery terminals clean of corrosion?.  If there is too  much corrosion   there can be 14v at the terminal  but the resistance from the corrosion will  not let the current get to the battery. Most  vehicles can run on the alternator alone once started , but many   now require a battery be in the system to .  The  battery may be be just connected enough the system sees it  and will  run  but as the battery draws down the system fails.. Newer electronic systems are a lot  different than the old  mechanical  ones. . Clean terminals and connections  and check with an ammeter  to see if the battery is rally getting a charge.  From there you  will have some idea where to go next.  What voltage does the battery show after being charged and let sit for a few hours with no draw on it ?  the battery  could be faulty.  A fully charged battery  should show about 12.6 volts  a few hours after charging.

Another thing might be it isn't a battery problem at all, but something in the ignition or fuel system  electronics heating up  and failing after an hour or so  of running.  How do you restart the quad after it has shut down  from  low battery?

In BC, road permits are issued free from  the local detachment office for the area you want to  drive in .  There are 2 insurances required to  ride here .. The  ICBC  insurance is for crossing main  roads at intersections and driving on secondary road shoulders.  The other is liability  insurance  for  riding on forest service roads and  other Crown land .. That insurance is normally  cheaper through private companies. I  have no  idea on the requirements in Alberta.

It depends on where you are.  In BC, Canada, you  have to be licensed and have  a minimum $200,000 Liability insurance to  cross main  roads and also  may  drive on the shoulder of secondary roads with a permit from the local  police department.  You  must also  have separate liability insurance to  ride on public land. There is no requirement for running or signal  lights here.

You need to  check with your  state/ provincial laws for the requirements for you and your  quad there .  The rules can be very different depending on the location.

Their specs claim 18w..... 6 x 3w  LEDs per light and only one needed for a head lamp; and only draw~1.5A. They're 4" lamps,  not a  light bar. Only one would be needed for a headlamp, not both.  He could use the second on another project. . A 180w light bar would be insanely bright  and too wide for a big single seat  quad. On the Canadian  Amazon site I found  one lamp that only drew 9w, but didn't see the same one in the US site

You should be able to  add  both using LED lights. Here's a link to a pair of 18w 12v flood lights for example .https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-ZH009-Lights-Harness-Warranty/dp/B06XRZW1LD/ref=psdc_15730331_t2_B09174JSRK

Just one of them  should make  more than enough light for the little  Suzuki.. There are others available that  would be suitable  and run from 9w  up you should be able to  find with a search on 12v LED flood lights. There are all  sorts of LED  tail/ stop  lights you could adapt for the back and most , if not  all,  would  only use a couple of watts.

Ok..  That was the only thing I could think  of when you said you'd worked on the carb and had  gas in the crankcase. I  know of it being done before  so  as I said ,  I  could only suggest the possibility with the info  I  had .. When  you find the problem  please let us know..  Take care and  happy riding .  I'm  wondering since the carb has been fine since you worked on it If the  drain  line  was connected to the crankcase , the float may have stuck  and flooded  allowing the drain  line to  run the overflow to the crankcase.  Just   curious musing on my  part .

From what you describe, I  would guess it's your routing of  "vacuum"  lines. You have likely connected the crankcase vent line to a fuel drain or possibly a "PRImer" line on the carb..  Only  guesses because I am not familiar with your Quadrunner.  There  should be a relevant service manual in the downloads section.. You need either a paid membership OR  10  posts in the forum to  download the manuals.

Here  is the link to  download it. I hope   you get it running well, Let us  know when you get it sorted out .  Every solved problem  is a help to those following who  may have the same or similar trouble.

The snow is retreating and trails are opening up in the north.. Sometimes we envy  Florida's endless summer,  but when we follow the news, that's about all we envy  about "The Flower" state at this time .

2 hours ago, alexwv1863 said:

Thank you so much. I had been wondering if welding would add too much weight to the pieces and throw it off balance like someone else had mentioned it might do. Would flux core welding be ok to do? That's what kind of welder I have. Before I tackle that side, I need to see if I can get it to start. Right now it won't turn on, but I haven't had the time to really check it over and see if there is possibly a loose or disconnected wire. I've been trying to find repair manuals for it and a couple other ATV's I have and am working on. It seems like the service manuals aren't as detailed or has everything in them like the repair manuals do. I've been trying to find free downloads because I just don't have the money to buy them. If you have any other suggestions, my ears are open. Thanks again. 

There is no  flux core wire for MIG welding aluminum.  MIG welding aluminum is with shielding gas only.  TIG welding or  brazing with flux coated rods could build up the parts, but an expensive waste of time and effort. If you've never welded aluminum  before I  can pretty much guarantee instead of having built up  parts  you can  try to  sand smooth and balanced,  you will end up with melted mess instead of clutch parts . Aluminum  doesn't grind well.  It  plugs up  grind stones and disks. Aluminum  melts before it changes colour.  Apply too  much  heat to an area  too long and it goes from solid to  melted with no warning. Welding aluminum   is a special skill  not  like steel welding which is forgiving  of mistakes .. There is no  forgiveness in aluminum welding .

Work  on getting the motor to  run  first .  If it is ok then  look for   a replacement  clutch assembly..  Trying to fix that one will be an expensive lesson  in frustration.

There is a copy of the '88 Blaster service manual and a link to  a  Blaster specific forum  in the downloads section  now.

Here is a write-up on the 1988 Blaster. According to it  they are a 200CC 2 stroke.

I don't know why the  VIN keeps coming up  invalid.

https://offroadingpro.com/yamaha-blaster/

As far as I can tell  from  searching your quad is a 1988 model,  but  try as I  might  I  can't get  a decode on that  vin number.  Are you sure that vin is correct?  Some searches bring up  nothing , others say the vin is invalid. One forum that had a link supposed to  decode it was hijacked sending searcher off to  a scam.

Try  contacting Yamaha directly and see if they'll  help you.

Some of the manuals will have it stated in the  .pdf's what  years and models they  cover. I  can't help  beyond  that.  The best I  can suggest is look for  one that covers the one you  want whether  it states for that year or not . If for a newer model than  you have look to  see if it  states the older ones are covered also in the manual  when you open it.. Most models with the same engine size will have very similar electrical  components although their wiring colour code  may be different and component location may  be different .. The  only cases where there would be huge differences  would be is where the older  model  was carburetted  and the newer one fuel  injected with it's associated electronics  the older model  wouldn't have.