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davefrombc

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Posts posted by davefrombc

  1. This manual  was for the 2002 YFM450far but the electrical on your quad  should be nearly the same ,  if not identical. There  are also manuals in the Quadcrazy  downloads section.

    Do  you have a local ATV club or association? Very possibly if you do you may find a member there that would be willing to  help you trace out the problem  with your  rig. You may find a tutorial  on  Youtube  that  would help  you learn  how you  use your multimeter to  check  out the electrical  system on your quad.

    2002 Yamaha yfm450far_2.pdf

  2. There's a few on here glad to help out others and new comers to the forum as much as we can.  I  have minimal knowledge on ATV's as such. My experience is mainly on older cars , before all the electronics and  fuel injection  came into the picture.  I  have   a basic knowledge of electronics , but it's very basic , and I  can  often help in the search for service manuals. 

    At 78, I  have  a little more "free time"  to  search  than  others whose week  doesn't consist of 7  Saturdays,  but I sure miss those Payday Fridays. Pension hours are great , but  the pay needs improvement.

     

  3. Pull the spark plug and squirt a bit of oil into the cylinder before you try to spin it over.. If there is any water in it it  could jam on  it and do  some damage and  if  dry the oil will  help the rings  break  loose from the cylinder walls.  That  clutch assembly is toast as far as I'm  concerned and with that much corrosion there it make me wonder about the rest of the motor .

     

    • Like 1
  4. You can get  stripped nut and bolt remover sets.  They  have a  reverse twist so  when  you drive the one  that  has the best bite onto the bolt head or nut they bite into it.  When  you  turn them  with your ratchet wrench the bite in deeper with the torque to remove the nut / bolt.

     

  5. Sounds like no  power to the ignition switch . All  I can suggest  is get a VOM or  voltage probe and  check  for power at the input side of the switch.  If no power there you have to trace back  from there to  battery to see where battery power stops.. If you  have power at the ignition switch but not beyond , you  found the culprit. As long as the neutral light is working and  quad is in neutral   that light should show when you turn  ignition on .If the  neutral safety switch is bad  the light  may or may not show but  the quad starter won't engage on the button. When  your quad is running  do the lights shine brighter when you rev up  and does your battery show   charging voltage (  13.2 to14v) and does the ignition switch turn  off the quad? If  yes, there is likely  a broken  wire or corroded connection preventing power to the ignition switch.

    There  is a  repair manual that should have an electrical schematic in the downloads section of the forum.   Tracing faults can  sometimes be a bi*** ..  Hopefully  you find the fault  quickly.

     

  6. I couldn't  find the plug  for that in any search. Why  not replace it with a regular  accessory socket?

    On my old Honda Fourtrax 300 FW  I  wired  in accessory  sockets  on both the front  and on the rear for running accessories ..  My  Honda  has  Honda's version  of an  accessory socket wired in on the front , but like your  Yamaha , it is not  a normal  accessory outlet  and although the plug is available the price of it is ridiculous.   It uses the  same plug  as  Honda generators  use for their  12v DC outlet for battery  charging.  Most likely the plug you want  is  no  longer  used  by  Yamaha  and they've gone to  normal accessory sockets when fitted to  newer machines.

    I'd  clip those wires at the socket and  replace the socket with a regular one that is readily available from  any  RV  outlet.

    You  could leave that unit as is if you wish and plumb in new wires and sockets  like I  did  for  power  both front and back

    • Like 3
  7. The higher tensile strength chain would be  best  and definitely O ring chain  will last longer  unlubed. I  saw a quote of the 8700 tensile strength for the OEM  chain.
     In   my search I  came across a listing of  520  O-ring chain with a tensile  strength of 8200 in an online listing by the US  Walmart  (.com) that as long as it is the right width for  the sprockets  should  fit.  As long as you're  not beating that quad to the max the slightly lower strength chains should do the job. You'd  have to  count the links ( pitches)   to  order the chain and confirm  price.
    I hope that helps.

  8. 9 hours ago, Streetmedik said:

    It is mechanical.  And if I pull up on it, it squirts a mist from the nozzle in the intake side of the carb.  I spent 2 days unclogging that nozzle.  Then to learn it isn't used. By time I get this thing finished, I am afraid I might want one myself.

    It may be a "primer".  Used on some applications to  give a shot of fuel  mist to enrich the initial  fuel  charge  for starting.

  9. They look  good in the ad, and really hard to go wrong with 4  for $17. I had to pay a lot more for ones for my old 1991  Honda 4trax 300FW 4x4 quad.

     By the way , I  am a retired Sawmill millwright, who  used to do all  my own  mechanical repairs on my vehicles and toys before everything went electronically controlled and needing specialized gear for some tests and repairs. My electrical  knowledge from  way back  before nearly everything went solid state stems from the studying needed to  get my  HAM  ticket in the days of much of the gear still  using vacuum tubes ..  I'm  clueless  about  all the digital modes and  much of the gear  in use now ... At  78, I'm a dinosaur in the world of electronics now. If it is metal or simply  wiring I  can  handle it , but get into  the electronic controls and I'm at a loss beyond using a VOM checking values of sensors listed in a service manual

  10. 7 hours ago, Mech said:

    ha..   I'm just the one with the most to say.. It's life in the country and no wife..

    He's the  quad mechanic with the most knowledge. The rest of us can  only offer some help  with suggestions from  other limited general mechanical and electrical knowledge.

  11. The manual for the 2009 model is here . All the service manuals  the forum has for the various makes of ATVs can be found in the Downloads section. Hover on the downloads button up top and choose the section holding the files you're looking for . There is a breakdown  of the makes on the right. Scroll down a bit to  see it.

     

  12. Neither picture is right.

    Here is an exploded view of the carb on  Partszilla https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/arctic-cat/atv/2005/500-manual-transmission-4x4-fis-red-a2005ibm4ausr/carburetor  Any  pictures I see of that carb on searches show 2 connected exterior hoses that's why I  suggested it might be for the  float bowl  vent/ overflow drain. I cannot find a picture of the bottom of the carb in any search to see just what goes to the threaded hole.

    That carb is not exactly the same but it uses the same needle valve setup. Look for parts 5 & 6

  13. 13 hours ago, Streetmedik said:

    There is a rubber hose attached to the bowl drain that goes to the overflow pipe inside the bowl.  This hole is threaded, like something should screw into it.

    The "brass pipe" on that carb might be a "hose barb" that screws into the  carb (1/8"  pipe tap or metric equivalent) to attach the  hose to and the hose barb may be somewhere else in the box.

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