davefrombc

I  see no reason  an atv master cylinder ( and wheel  cylinder(s)  can't be bled the same way automotive cylinders are bled.  Fill  master cylinder,  pump up and hold brake and crack the bleed valve. The fun  part comes with some atvs when you need to remove the seat or plastics to access the rear master cylinder cylinder or  bleed valve.

2 hours ago, starsteven22 said:

Well I went back to it and turned key on, everything worked fine, before I did anything, thanks for all the help where to start, If it happens again , I will check (dam gremlins

That's what makes me suspect a loose or corroded connection. Turning on the power can  make a momentary surge in power that can connect through a little corrosion, and movement can  make a loose connection make contact when  previous movement made it lose.  I'd bet more on a loose connection or even an incomplete break in the wire where the ends are close together and a little movement makes connection. It's possible in the ignition switch too if a little corrosion in there .. Next time it doesn't want to  turn  over,  try turning the ignition switch on and off a few times to see it that makes it work.  Electrical gremlins that cause intermittents are the most evil. It's much easier finding a complete failure / disconnection.

I would look for a loose connection or a corroded connection or ground in the circuit to the ignition switch and starter circuit.

1 hour ago, coolcooch said:

Thanks Dave....if I can find the power line for the fuel pump I believe that's going to be the easiest way for me to solve the problem. 

 Thanks Dave....much appreciated

I was assuming the fuel tank is below the carbs. If it is above it is likely the carbs could still fill slowly by gravity feed.  Didn't think of that when I mentioned a switch on the fuel pump.  Before going that route , try disconnecting the fuel  pump,  run  motor out , wait   several  minutes and try starting it. If it starts the valve inline is the only way to go .  You can get inline shut offs . They only require cutting the line in a convenient spot to  splice in.

 

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You can add one to the line to the carbs. Quick search just  showed 2 electric settings for the fuel pump -On and Prime- with no shut off valve.. If  your quad is going to be laid up  for an extended period  you could disconnect the fuel hose and use the prime position to pump the fuel tank dry to  prevent sludge build up  in it  from  the gas rotting in storage.  To simply  run the carbs out  without installing a shutoff valve  you could wire a switch into the power line to the fuel pump to  turn  it off when you want to run the carbs out.

Looks like it  is remove and disassemble time to find out why it is sticking.. If the quad is gumming up from sitting  unused for a considerable time, I would suggest every time you do  use it you turn off the fuel  and run the carb out when you're done.  That way there's no fuel  left in it to rot and gum  up the works. I make a habit of doing that with all of my equipment from the quad to  lawn and garden  gear, power saw and snow blower.

Have you checked system voltages,  tried to rev it up with headlights on? . Other threads have pointed to faulty voltage regulators causing erratic running / stalling  and acting as though running lean due to a faulty voltage regulator.

There's always 2 0r more prices for everything transportation or leisure involved.. Years ago there was 3 prices for an identical alternator used on a vehicle , boat or aircraft.  Yes, there were slight differences between them--- the marine alternator had screening to  make them  less likely to ignite fuel vapors in the bilge and the aircraft certified ones were much more tightly quality controlled;  but it still  didn't justify a more than 3x price increase over the  automotive  one. Price the identical  part for a Chevy  and Cadillac, or any companies basic models and their luxury line. You are paying a premium for the name or "luxury". Even some power tools have huge price differences depending on the brand name   on them.   I remember a 4 " angle grinder made by one company  having 2 prices .. The very common utility brand was $100 cheaper than the "elite"  branded one.  The difference between grinders?  the expensive one had a polished aluminum gear case while the basic one was matte finished as it came from the forming die. Otherwise the two  angle grinders were screw for screw identical.  When the tool salesman was confronted with that he admitted the utility grinder maker also  made them for the company whose tools he was selling ..  I  won't say their names but the initials for the two  companies were  B&D and S.O.    LOL...

As far as chains are concerned,  it isn't that hard to  cut down  chains or add to them  to  modify them to  fit a different tire diameters,  a little  more work  to  modify width  You don't need to  pay the higher price tags for  new if you don't want to.

Got this off a Polaris forum

I'd be hesitant to  use a brush cutter attachment for a quad. I think sharp stubs of brush  could likely too easily puncture tires. One would be ok for mowing  jobs. I can't see it as a haying machine.

The Big Bear 400 is air cooled and the Kodiak 400 is water cooled  according to their specs I found on line .

My guess is the transmission is locked in two  gears; possibly one forward and the reverse. There should be a service manual in the downloads section here  to  help you with diagnosing and fixing the problem.

Is that a center saver under the tip of the puller rod?  It looks like if there is, it appears slightly off center / too  large for the shaft and catching on the clutch preventing the clutch from  moving out when  I  blow up the picture.

There's something not indexed right in tranny assembly then That is most likely the reason for the lock up.  There should be a  manual in the downloads section  that can help. 

Is it possible you have the wrong length bolts  in the clutch assembly? I've seen car motors locked up because  in replacing a motor they used bolts for a manual shift flywheel to install a flex plate for an automatic.  The longer bolts contacted the motor block when tightened  and effectively seized the motor. Something similar could be happening in the Honda if one or more long bolts got swapped in where shorter ones were called for.

Just my  2 cents in , but if there  are  "decent dents" in the piston, check it  very closely for cracks too

Did you check the fuel line to the carb for restrictions? It may be the float bowl isn't  filling fast enough.

Try using a jumper cable directly from the battery to the starter to see if that spins it over faster. The wires from the starter solenoid to the starter should not be getting hot if the starter is not dragging.  They may be too small to deliver proper voltage  and current to the starter.  If it spins the motor over with the jumper cable then  change out the starter wires for heavier ones. If there is no difference then you need to  look for why the starter is dragging.

I  run 5 psi in the tires on my old '91 Honda Fourtrax 300FW. The tires are rated for 7psi max.  It is also a solid axle rear ,  full time 4x4 and as such has the turning circle of a pickup truck and  a harsher ride than the newer independent suspension rigs with selectable  2- 4WD. Simple , dead reliable old technology but much easier to  maintain like most of the old Hondas and Suzukis.

 5 psi  is fine in your quad, and  you could easily run  them  at the recommended 4.4 psi. The low pressure gives a  little less harsh ride and  better grip  in rough terrain.

Hard core 4x4 offroaders drop their vehicle tires from  highway 30 -50  psi pressures  down  to as low as 10 - 15psi.  Some with bead lock rims drop pressures  into the single digits for rock crawling.  Softer tires give better grip and ride ,  harder tires give better fuel  mileage and handling on the highway.

Fuel  valve left on and the carb flooded  either from a  bad seat or stuck float.  You'll need to  completely  drain the  crank case  and refill with fresh oil,   drain and clean the air box and find out why the carb flooded.

Pull the spark plug and make sure the cylinder is not also  flooded.

Check the float level as well as all the items Mark mentioned. It could be too low.

I would blame worn starter brushes not making proper contact. When you have the starter engaged and give it a turn  with the kick start it is enough movement to  make  the brushes make better contact and spin  the starter.  I  had similar trouble with my '91 Foutrtrax 300FW.  New brushes fixed it .

Your wires look like a nightmare to deal with now.  Here is a download of  a Raptor 660 service manual that should have a wiring diagram for you to follow. Hopefully the color coding it shows corresponds to  your machine. Sorry I can't help  more than that.

The most common cause of that is a faulty voltage regulator.

A handy tool to have is an  in line spark tester.  Sometimes you can  have spark when the plug is out of the cylinder but the spark  fails when under compression . The inline tester will  show you if it is sparking without having to pull the plug.