Raptor8

is there fuel in the carb? maybe a shot of starting fluid...

The 4 stroke is a simple system of suck-squeeze-bang-blow. that's all it does. when you turn it over you should get a push of air from the exhaust side and a suction of air from the intake side. you can test with the palm of your hand.

the valves must be closing and the cam timing correct for this to happen of course.

cam timing can be tricky and frustrating and it has to be exactly right.

take the spark plug out and put your thumb over the hole. turn the engine over- if it pushes your thumb off then the valves are closing.

your anti-wear additives are your problem.

Use motorcycle or quad oil- only that. ATV oil has friction modifers in it to make the wet clutch system work- car oil coats the plates and does exactly what you have described. Also, ATV oil is formulated for much higher heat since many quads and bikes are way hotter then even a diesel truck that's water cooled.

Go to the dealer and buy the right oil- hopefully your clutch plates are not ruined but no guarantees there.

Hopefully the problem will go away after you change to the right oil- if not, replace the clutch plates...

It's the shift angle sensor. It screws in at the back of the case above the swing arm pivot. Common item on Hondas. Change that and yer goin again. Unhook battery and rehook to reset computer.

Honda ATVs don't use a drive belt

THOR quadrants for almost ten years now. VERY durable but not very flexible... reasonably priced- they are still under$150 I believe.

try unhooking the battery for 1/2 hour to reboot the computer. See if that helps- it just might...

there should be a detent to hold that knob out- parts catalog time.

I like carbs myself cuz I know them I guess. With FI, if it quits, you're walking. before long everything will be FI

so what happened?

pretty hard to diagnose without seeing it, esp when you mentioned that it was 'well used.'

charge the battery, check the water level and clean the terminals FIRST OK? you may save yourself a lot of grief.

don't run pump gas anymore- it has so much crap added to it that it is actually hygroscopic.

Here we can get non-ethanol super at the gas station pumps- it works great and is cheaper than race fuel, which is not gasoline at all.

regular pump gas will dry out any rubber part it touches- it's a bad deal for anything that's not brand new.

You can pull the screws out of the petcock and drain the tank if nothing else- this way you can examine that petcock and hopefully clean it out.

Grab one of those $2 inline fuel filters next trip to the bike shop- try not to run anything with ethanol in it- often available at the bulk plant but take a gas can cuz they generally pump it out of a drum. With good fuel you'll notice an increase in performance too- it made my pickup run better! LOL

try fuel injection cleaner- it is more $ but usually works a lot better and faster than HEET.

Hope this helps!

ck fuses and battery connection- especially if it happened suddenly. something is loose or unhokked that should not be.

man looks like fun... we have 2 feet of snow in the yard right now with more on the way... Mike we can't even GET to EFR cuz the road is closed due to snow!

plus I bot a street bike and just dyin to ride that- in the garage it sits!

More snow in the forecast....

Yeah, I'm happy you stayed at it and found the culprit! It's hard to diagnose when you can't see the rig...

I suggest takin it off and cleaning it all up. Take the solenoid off and clean it up, clean the crud off the bendix drive and test fire it on the bench a few times. With any luck it is something that a good cleaning will fix.

Yammers are usually near the shifter, often behind it.

I agree! If you can fix a Holley, you can fix a Ford too LOL

I'd flush that fuel tank and install a fuel filter...

it's gotta be something simple like that- usually is...

the 450 Kodiak is a good quad- it has all the features of the Grizzly but is a bit smaller, a lot lighter and easier to handle. If you ride one you'll fall in love with it.

fortunately I don't have to worry about water- it's woods and high desert here... the nearest water is in the radiator of my truck

Yeah just get it done and get it over with. Good Doctors can do some pretty amazing things nowadays. Don't be afraid to ask questions! Take yer laptop with ya hahahha

hahaha yeah free is a very good price when you can make it work!! good for you!

Good idea but may take some serious engineeering. The bolt patterns vary dramatically! You may have to design 3 or 4 to cover everyone. A good idea though! I'll buy some!

could be a tight valve, too rich carb, or maybe even 180 degrees out on the cam. Time to buy a book. hard to diagnose without seeing it... sorry:aargh:

You know, I noticed that on mine too. I can't hear the fan running while riding. I tested it a couple times and it works, I don't ever get a temp lite, so I'm just not gonna worry about it. Maybe when I put the quiet pipe on it I'll hear it... :cheers2c:

Ya Josh, it sounds like a Blaster would run away from it....

sounds like it may be passing crud thru to the needle and seat... I'd put a small filter in-line [available at any bike shop] and that might solve your problem. Kinda strange that it would start AFTER it has been ridden awhile, unless the riding is stirring up some debris in the tank... fuel filter will solve that.

If you can, buy some non-ethanol fuel [we have it here at the pumps] it'll make your rubber parts last longer. Ethanol, otherwise known as alcohol, loves to eat up rubber parts! I have 2 ATCs I have to rekit cuz of that ethanol, so only non ethanol fuel from now on... it's like 103 octane and runs $3.79/gal in the tourist trap where I live...