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Posts posted by Raptor8
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heard it before, "It worked fine until I fixed it." LOL:laugh:
What we do here for those who go to the coast is cut a hole in the airbox slightly smaller than a piec of ductape. Open when here at altitude, tape over it when ya get to the coast. They are all factory set for sea level.
I run FMF pipe, cam, and a few other yamaha parts and it has run fine for 10 years now.
Did I explain it so you could understand it? higher alt = less air= less fuel needed. if you jet bigger you are going rich= not needed.
hope this helps! I forgot all about lookin at the date!
Remember #1 technicians rule: If it works, don't fix it.
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oh no! it's ebay city or wherever, you should be able to get another 185-200 for that price. I paid $200 for one that needed a $40 CDI box. I think all the 185-200 are the same up until about '84
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nail that baby with liquid wrench, pb blaster, whatever is handy and let it soak...
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sorry to say that's what it sounds like.... not too big a job tho. you get all those parts on ebay....
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yep, water creates a circuit path. I had a guy drop a dime in his once- it about drove us CRAZY! hahaha
Do you have a winch? is it hooked to that circuit [ill bet it is]
lets check that out too.
If so, we always installed a 30A circuit breaker from a car into the winch power line and ran it off the battery. that way it wont blow a fuse or damage any wiring.
If not, you may have found it in the power port.
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I use IE, logs in OK, chat does not accept my password. I always log out so I always log in. did I miss anything?
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We forgot one important thing: he's from COLORADO- ALTITUDE!!!!!
what's your altitude? if it's over 4000 feet then installing bigger jets will make it worse not better. You have thinner air there just like here where we ride 4k to 7k feet.. We cut a hole in the airbox lid and run stock jets and they run just fine. You have less air because there IS less air, so you need less fuel, not more.. Buy a new plug and do a plug chop test- that will tell you if you are rich or lean. let us know!
Yes 660s have 2 diff jet sizes in carbs sitting side by side. One has the choke in it and the other does not. It has something to do with the three intake valves.
Josh you had the right idea.
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you're getting smoke because there is a bearing in there- be sure and repack that with grease before reassembly.
I went out and got my 185 factory book. The drum is splined, of course, but after you remove everything between it and the tire, there's nothing holding it in there...
the backing plate and inner dust cover are welded to the bearing carrier, so that will be staying where it is.
Typical Honda manual, it says 'remove the brake drum.' hahaha perhaps a chilton's would be more enlightening...
I also haver a clymer's here tho I prefer chilton's. clymer= British, chilton= American
the language is different...
If you have both axle nuts and the washer removed, and the brake cables are slack, then there is nothing but corrosion holding that drum on there. Brake shoes sometimes wear out and then eat a groove into the drum.... a couple good smacks with a hammer should break them loose.
But other than that, it's heat I'm afraid. I have a clymers and a factory manual on that rig if you need any more help. [i have a 185 and a 200s]
Don't be afraid to ask.
I can fax you a picture if you have a fax machine or scan a page and email it to you. Let me know if I can help.
Start shooting those splines with PB Blaster or some other penetraing fluid....the splines are all that hold the drum on if you have the axle nuts removed...
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the only difference I can think of is that the Grizz has a belt and the Honda does not. There have not been any problems reported with the dual stage belt system Yamaha uses. Were it my choice I'd get the Yammer- and I have a garage full of Hondas...
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So you're 23 eh real tree? we should be coming to YOU for advice? I've been a Honda tech for 27 years and a Yamaha tech for 24. I have 6 ATVs in my garage, all mine.
I take great offense to your smartassed comment.
A lot of people would be walking if not for the good hearted and experienced people on this website. That does not include you. Fix that attitude kddo, before a moderator takes action.
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Yeah I know someone who just runs the snot out of his recon ES and it just keeps going....
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yes, actually it can, if the sensor fails during an electric shift. It jams the shift forks and shuts off the actuator motor. annoying as heck! I've seen it many times... recons too.
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Be careful how much noise they make! Many states are enacting new, lower noise limits. Oregon, for example is 99 statewide and 93 at the dunes. They are soon to go 93 statewide!!! that makes MOST aftermarket pipes worthless..... so be careful you dont waste your money. You might check with a local ATV club and see what's planned for your state...
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I didn't know they had a sensor in the intake system! I gotta call BS on that one- I'm headed for the parts catalog.
Otherwise it had to be an air, vacuum leak somewhere. Several guys were right.
Hey Demon: the 01 Raptor 660r does NOT have a reverse limiter... all the rest do. If you really want to flip you gotta try it in reverse! LOL
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yeah some of these guys look at what's going UNDER instead of what's up ahead.... that's definitely his fault. He should learn how to ride. I've seen a lot of pitbikes pretty cheap... Anyone who rides desert [like stoopidbot] will tell you that the faster you go, the farther out front you're watching. What goes underneath you have already seen...
well you got a new bumper out of the deal... not bad!
The Oregon off road manual says to slow and move safely off to YOUR RIGHT. spot on man.
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I miss my blaster- should never have sold it.
good news tho- I bid on 2 up for aution in town here- one complete, one in a box. Man I love those 2 strokes!!!
I see both old and new style plastic in yer pics- where did you buy the new style plastic? any trouble installing it? I'd mine to look like my 660r...
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It could just be dirt and dust in the brake drum, some Yamahas do it too. Changing brands of brake shoes cured the problem on the Yammers, worth a try on a Hondoo...
Since it has a live axle it prob only has one brake drum, on THAT side. Take a close look.
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It's more than likely a thing called the ' shift angle sensor' I have replaced HUNDREDS of them over the years. Dealer part, not too expensive... screws into the back of the case above the swingarm. betcha a quarter that's it!
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check it for spark. I had a 185 quit and it was the electronic ignition box. The dealers price about gave me a stroke but I found a new one on ebay for $45. It's still running...It's a little guy about the size of a flasher and it's up by the coil.
I would recommend a book to adjust the valves cuz that compression release can be a little tricky.
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Find a way to buy PB Blaster by the case! I currently have several cables hanging up in the garage...if you keep squirting them eventually the blaster will free them up. It'll save the hunt for new cables.
The brakes are just corroded....it's common. the shoes and springs are available on ebay if needed.
One atc110 I got had no rear brake function....I opened it up- NO BRAKE shoes or springs! Some pinhead went to all the trouble to disassemble, remove shoes and springs, then reassemble, including the cable! it was 'teenagered' hahaha ya just never know...
Seems to me the hardest things to find for 3 wheelers are the headlight switch and the kill button. they seem to break the first time someone flips them..
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Hey Unc, we must start and 'old dude' club.... I'm a 54 model and currently have 1 US90, 2 ATC110s, 1 ATC185 and 1 ATC200S, plus my raptor 660 and a Yammer mx100 dirtbike. I like to restore them and tinker with them. As it is, this crappy 'gasoline' is forcing me to kit 3 of them for leaks!
Oh well, it's something to do...
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more than likely fuel pump. the early 700 raptors had a recall on a bunch of them for the same symptoms... the pump should have a screen on it, not much of a filter I'm afraid. Good Luck.
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make sure your parking brake is OFF. 01's have a rev limiter switch on the parking brake on the left control assy. make sure it moves in and out.
with the parking brake on it will bark and pop at you. If that little switch is stuck it will think the brake is on....handlebars, LH side.
it should run correctly with the switch closed, as in parking brake off.
oh be careful backing up the 01- there is NO rev limiter in reverse- it will haul butt in reverse and pitch you right off! LOL in 02 they limited it.
STP or race gas [a little] is a good idea to clean out misc crud. you have 2 carbs- buy a book before you go tearing into them!
Make sure your choke is turning off as well. sometimes the cable gets cruddy inside and you may think they are off, but not true. How: go to the left handlebar control and sit down under it so you can look up at it. Now work the choke control and make sure the cable is sliding smoothly and not wadding up under the lever. if it is, then follow the choke cable to the carb [sticking out, LH side] unscrew it and pull it straight out. It's a little piston. it may need a little emery cloth to make it slide smoothly in the choke bore. wrap some emery around a drill bit or pencil and slide it in the bore to clean out the white crud that gets in there. It's electrolysis- brass piston against aluminum housing. wish I had a nickel for every one I've cleaned.
Hold the cable up in the air and squirt some lube inside it while you're at it. this should fix it.
83 Honda ATC 185S HELP PLZ!
in ATC 3-Wheeler Forum
Posted · Edited by Raptor8
keep looking.... check the 3 wheeler forum here and look at some of MWKE's posts, the first few. he has some contacts there for 3 wheeler sites. SOMEBODY has one laying in their garage, bet on it! it's a treasure hunt man! hahaha have fun
maybe you can run a die down those threads and restore them. may require some hand filing.... it's a pain in the butt but I have done it before on a crankshaft and it worked. Next time screw the nut back on and pound on a wood block OK?
I'll look around too. Be sure and put it in the classifieds here- someone may have one!