JacobSlabach

ok so the spark plug wasnt tight lol the oem carb is still flooding out the bottom and the chinese carb is getting gas in there now but nothing happens... the oem carb did fire up with choke and ran REALLY bad and shut off when I took the choke off, and backfired out the carb. cant get the chinese carb to work at all..

Ok so I put the Chinese carb back on it cause I knew that would at least make it idle and I had a feeling that the oem carb might be blocked somewhere.... but it wont run period. I took the Chinese carb back off and felt the entrance to the head and it was completely dry-- no gas to engine. checked my gas flow from the tank and theres plenty of gas there... what could be wrong with it? It is no longer flooding out the bottom of the carb. I'm gonna try the oem carb while I'm waiting for a response.

the timing is perfect with the t on the flywheel and the mark that says LF300 is lined up with 'top' written on the head. I'm swapping the jets back now on the carbs and I'll check the float too.

ok thanks! we have over 20 inches of snow here (from yesterday) so I am going to try to get this thing running today. So I hear you saying this: check the timing carefully and make sure the marks on the cam sprocket line up with the mark on the head swap the jets in the carbs to get the stock jets in the stock carb to make sure the needle is seating correctly to shut off the fuel. anything else?

what should I do with the carb?

I agree with you. I didnt see the mark on the head so I will look for that next time I work on it.

This is what I have: The red dot is the center of the cam, the blue dot is the indent I was talking about (it faces toward the rear of the bike) the green marks are what you're talking about that are lined up with the cylinder. the pink circles the cap on the flywheel to view the 'T'mark I can take the cam cover off next time I work on it to check the mark on the head (A) yes I have the manual, and I will check the mark next time I am working on the bike.

didint see ur pic at first, this is what I have! ☝️ the two marks (what he's pointing to) are in line with the cylinder.

ok so I took some pics (I'm not really sure what mark you're talking about) just took these, I'm not working on the bike today, (too cold) will be working again on it maybe wednesday, but I want to figure out a game plan before working at it again.

The indent is just right of the center hole, the mark that is supposed to be parallel with the top end it at the top of the sprocket, sorry the pic is so blurry

sorry, forgot to upload the pic: and sorry, its blurry lol

when I took the cam sprocket off, I took a pic which I'll upload. If you look at the pic, there is an indent in the sprocket just right of the center. I made sure that was to the right again when I put it back together, with the 'T' mark centered on the flywheel Yes I do know the tad and I had adjusted it to keep the gas valve in farther (I was thinking that might help with flooding) The float was not sticking when I took the carb apart.... the only thing I can thing of is I put the clean jets off the aftermarket carb in the oem carb (they all looked the same) maybe that caused a problem? The engine turns over easier than it did when I took it apart, It had a clicking noise when I would turn it over with the rope that sounded like valves, but I also hadn't put the back end of the muffler on yet.

Ok. So how do I get this bad boy running?🤟

compression is at 170psi so do I have the valve clearance wrong or what?

The float was free when I took the carb apart. sp was wet when I took it out. I'm gonna check compression to rule out the valves.

I had the air screw out 1-1/2 turn- the manual said to have it at 2-1/4 turns? I cleaned the carb good already- (its the new(old stock) one I bought of ebay)

There is gas coming out of the vent hose coming out the bottom of the carb

It seems as if its flooding.

Just put it back together.. It fires but wont stay running... I also didnt put the rear part of the muffler on- does that matter? i dont have any more pics rn..

ok. yes I replaced the gaskets in the caps. will do.

Ok, looked it up, for the forum: In: .10-15mm Ex: .20-25mm I got it as close as I could- the valve clearance tool I bought didn't go that small... just down to .20mm so I just tightened it farther on it to try and get down to .15mm. If Its running bad, I'll get a different set and get it exact. Any tips as I put it back together?

got the timing chain back in the top end and in time (the 'T' mark at the bottom and the marks on the sprocket parallel to the cylinder) do you know what the valve clearance specs are on my klf300b?

before i saw your reply, I took the pullcard off and turned the flywheel backwards and now its free. was a kink I didnt see in the timing chain.

how do I spin it backwards?

the head is off. I dont see anything trying to spin in there. Its like its frozen or something...