JacobSlabach

thanks-- I'm just at whits end trying to figure out what could be causing the knocking/tapping/slapping noise on this bike....

lol I learned on a sportsman 500cc 😎 havnt rolled or wrecked yet...been riding them for over three yrs now completely agreed. the biggest safety issue with a machine is the operator! all the machine does is responds to how your driving it.

the bearing had no play in it. ok will do!

the cam on mine had bearings on it and I didnt see any metal shavings or wear on it. It looked brand new condition wise.

cam seemed snug to me- mine slid out the side off the head because my head doesnt come apart like yours. you mean side to side or up and down?

those things are good for making mud bosses... Iv'e got an 04 sportsman I'm fixing up and if I dont sell it, I'm lifting it, putting on mud wheels, snorkel, radiator relocate, it already has a winch.. first thing i need to get it running lol. I'd check all fluids, wiggle the wheels side to side to check the bearings, check alignment, oil all moving parts, check all cv boots, engine timing, valve clearance, air filter, sp, and send pics! the valve clearence and timing arnt likely to be off unless its been ridden hard...you be the judge of that...the way I look at it, it would take me 10 mins to make a new quad into a 'ridden hard' quad so I look at all used quads as ridden hard, 3 months old or 25 years old.. I ride the crap out of them- the only breaks they get is if they're broken 😎

I've never ran or heard an engine with low oil so I dont know what that sounds like, but there is oil oil in the bike to the viewing window and I changed it in July. Its more of a knock in the top end- I dont think its piston slap because the knuckle joint was pretty tight with no wiggle. when I took the caps off today, there was oil in the head around the valves and the cam. I'm not sure what you mean about watching the valves hit the top of the lobe on the cam or if they feel loose at the top...?

ok I will try that.. I'm weary of running it because I'd not like to bend a valve if its hitting..

my experience with bigger purchases at tsc has not been good.... when/if they get a return on say a log splitter, they have it fixed up as cheap as they can while cutting corners... Have a friend that worked there for awhile on the returned products that had engines and he left because he couldnt stand cutting corners and then putting the item back up for sale as new when it had a cheap fix and would break (after the warranty of course..) anyway, my grandfather bought a baja minibike from there and left it in the barn for about 4 years... I ended up getting it and found that bad gas was left in the tank by tractor supply. A carb latter, found that the 97cc engine smoked, sounded like a shotgun, and I had to push it with my feet to get it going (no power at all) Ended up replacing the engine with a predator 212cc and sold it on CL. Never get anything that has a motor form Tractor Supply! I realize that your trailer doesnt have an engine of course, just throwing that info out there to warn people that if they get something with an engine from tsc, check it over like you would something off CL!

yes there is and it works like it did before I did the rebuild. It releases and makes it easier to pull start the bike.

set the valves correctly. still has a loud ticking noise like before. I dont know what else to do. Its in time with the "Top" on the head and the "LF300" mark on the cam sprocket; and the 'T' on the flywheel. It never did this before I rebuilt it.

yes the part that I'm holding in comes out easily. the cogg on that part stripped because it got rusted. I'm woundering if I could det it welded and that should fix it.. but yes, the part that is stripped is does not go into the trans but a new shift shaft will cast about $70 and I'm already gonna have to get a ecm 🤢 and btw is there a way to take the ecm apart and fix it? I'm just assuming that its shorted out somewhere in there..

yep and thanks for the vid!

the part that i'm holding in there is the stripped part attached to the shift arm. it has a cog that turns the trans shifter. Thats the other shaft.

hopefully the valve slap stops and hopefully I haven't bent a valve... I only ran it a couple seconds, herd the popping, and turned it off.

ok. got some feeler gauges. will update you on how it runs. so just double checking so I dont screw up something: adjust it at TopDeadCenter when the valves are tighter (they still are loose, just dont have 1/4 inch gaps on that stroke)

lol sorry I guess I wasnt saying that right..

will do

Ive never looked at the wiring on a polaris before I got this one so I was taking my friend's word for it since he owns two sportsmans on sportsmans, there is like a little gearbox for the shifter. the part that is stripped is not attached into the tranny

ok but which tdc should I try it on? loose tdc or tight tdc? I guess thats what I was asking...lol

its in time, but every other time I reach top dead center, the rocker arms are really loose, the tight, then loose, then tight.... every time I reach tdc.

found one for $120 on ebay. anyone find one cheaper? and is any way I could redneck the old one to make it work? also, the shifter arm is stripped in the compartment on the tranny... weld or some other glue?

Ok. The think that has me confused is the valves are at different clearances every other revolution at tdc.

Ecm part number is 2203348

12v going into the ecm and only like .4v coming out on only one of the wires. The ecm is where all the electricity stops. please correct me if I'm wrong though! I'm not looking forward to paying around $150 for my mistake...