MarkinAR

I'd add that based on personal experience, the O'Reilly brand carb cleaner seems to be about the strongest on the market i've seen. Not sure who makes their store brand but it's wicked strong. It'll peel paint. It's real close to carb cleaner from 20 years ago. BTW, anyone know of a true chem dip anymore? even the Berryman "professional" chem dip is about as strong as dish soap.

On the centrifugal clutch, I just rebuilt a 220 that the centrifugal clutch was absolutely shot on. It was worn to the point that there was no gap to spit the oil out. So I took a cylinder grinding stone and ground out the ridges in the drum, finishing with emery cloth and buffed it smooth. Then I cut grooves back in what little clutch material was left on the clutch itself. Put it all back together, and it pulled like a champ. Also, those Bayou/Lakota motors chatter even if the valves are spot on. I don't know what it is clicking, but i've never heard one with some miles that doesn't chatter. Love those motors though. Typical older style, simple to work on, run forever.

I pulled a wheelie on one of those once doing about 50. On a gravel road. Barefoot and no shirt. Living in the south has it's perks!

You know, as I'm sitting here at work not thinking about an ATV, I just had a thought that there may not be an o-ring on the back of the choke nut where it tightens into the carb body. I know it didn't leak enough vacuum to suck carb spray in, but I'm wondering if it's a 1/2mm too deep in the choke throat... May have to double check that tonight. I can lightly feather the choke just enough to put tension on the choke cable and it perks up and runs great.

So I've got it to the point now that it stumbles off idle much less but if you double pump the throttle it'll pick up and run. No vacuum leaks anywhere and I put a thin line of RTV where the throttle diaphragm sits just in case. I would say a bit more fuel by bumping the float up but it screams at WOT so I'm hesitant. Ideas?

After another good soak in lacquer thinner and a ton of high pressure compressed air, it now idles like a dream and will scream at WOT. However, idle to 15% throttle still falls on it's face. I can feather the choke a touch to get it just above idle and once it's open, it will scream. But 0-15% throttle is still an issue. At least it's an improvement. The plan for right now is to let it sit with gas in the carb and run it again later tonight to see if it'll work normal. It reads like a vacuum leak since vacuum leak is almost negligible at WOT, but there is none on the intake boot and none on the diaphragm so I'm at a loss where that vacuum leak would be. Maybe a thin layer of silicone where the throttle diaphragm cap meets the carb body? Diaphragm itself is fine, no tears or holes, moves up and down fine with air. Unless the diaphragm itself leaks a minuscule amount between itself and it's seat...that could be an option that i couldn't diagnose from the outside of the carb and may cause the off idle loss of power.

It is a CV and the main jet raises with air flow. You can blow in the inlet port and it raises fine. Wonder if I could give it throttle and manually raise the slide at the same time...that may rule out the diaphragm. I have a feeling if it ever runs up throttle once correctly it'll pass whatever the issue is.

It runs decent with choke on and it ran before carb rebuild so it has to be fuel delivery. Just never had one I couldn't get clean and run at least decent.

Gonna take the 8lb sledge to this mikuni before its over. 130psi, flipped the main nozzle bc I did have it backwards, soaked in thinner, sprayed with carb cleaner, torch tip rods, passage ways clear. I'm stumped. Even bypassed the tank with fresh gas from a bottle to rule out a line issue or water and nothing works. Just has to be a blockage but cant find it. I've rebuilt 100 and never been stumped before. Sometimes they are cranky but this one refuses to run past 10% throttle.

Have done all of the above, thus my frustration with this POS. I even moved the float to a mm or so higher than spec thinking the jets just needed buried a bit more in fuel. Fingers are crossed there's a fuel restriction in the petcock or water. It flows fuel freely visibly but it could be restricted by 50% coming out of the petcock and I couldn't tell by looking bc I dont have a frame of reference.

After soaking the carb in lacquer thinner for 30 minutes I'm no better. Thinking of bypassing the tank to rule out slow fuel delivery or water in the tank issues next. This one has been a real "bear"

Had a similar issue with a Kawasaki once. Crankcase is full of gas as a symptom of hard starting, so that's easily resolved once it starts correctly. That compression is also a bit high so that's odd. It's either a carb issue or bad plug. If you haven't replaced the spark plug yet, do that. That ended up being the issue with my Kawasaki. The plug wasn't firing hot enough under compression. You said new carb, I assume chinese carb? Those are ok but hard to tune. Sounds like wrong jets. i've used 4 chinese carbs this month and jets were way wrong in all of them. I had one stamped 95 that was NOT a 95, it was more like a 115. Could also be the idle air screw wrong, float wrong. Try checking the float level and using the OEM jets if they will fit.

I'd try a new NGK plug. They're $2.49 and may solve the issue. Plugs often malfunction under pressure and you can't see it inside the chamber.

This carb still has me beat, can't get any fuel moving off of idle. Took it apart and cleaned a couple more times, jets are clear, passage below the pilot jet is clear, no unhooked hoses, throttle diaphragm works properly, float is set at spec 13mm... Think I'm sending it back to the owner and telling him to pull everything apart again and drop it in an ultrasonic cleaner and try again. I'm almost 100% positive a passage somewhere inside is restricted enough that it can't draw sufficient fuel to run. Everything is there and adjusted properly per diagram and service manual. Hoping letting it set for a few days full of fuel will dissolve whatever it is that i can't see or dislodge with torch cleaning rods and carb cleaner and low volume compressed air. Really want to hit it with 120psi of compressed air but it would be my luck i blow out a plug.

I did check the diagram, was surprised to find no oring. Checked another mikuni I have from a 220 and it didnt either. May have to go with a dab of silicone.

Valves and spark plug is always a good place to start but this one ran decent before the rebuild. Money is on clogged circuit, bad diaphragm etc. Will tear down a 3rd time and try again shortly. Without the owner present so I can go through it methodically.

The bowl drain leaking has me stumped, never had one that wouldn't tighten up and close off. it leaks out of the drain spout like the drain screw is loose...but it's not may have to figure out if there is a scratch or something in the seat that isn't sealing off. That drain screw doesn't have any kind of oring or gasket, it's just metal on metal. Air screw was missing the washer and oring...previous owner left them out...so had to correct that. Idles like a champ. Of the 2 jets that are mid and main, they are both the same size/style jet. I'm assuming the largest would be the main like usual? If I remember right they are 115 and 75 or something close to that. Low speed is the usual 35 or close to it. Normal Mikuni carb.

Can't get to WOT, won't make it past just off idle unless the choke is on. Hitting the throttle from idle, it will sometimes cough back through the carb...which is another indication of fuel starvation. the needle seems to be moving in and out of the seat ok, and float wasn't moved during rebuild...but could always be checked again. As far as jets, it has the original jets that came in the bike. I normally chunk the jets that come with the cheaper rebuild kits in a bin and forget them because I don't trust chinese jets.

Subject is wrong...it's a 400 Big Bear. Must have fat fingered a key there. sorry.

Working on my oldest son's buddy's 2000 Big Bear. He was having some power loss at WOT so i thought it worth while to clean the carb and put at kit in it...or at least clean the OEM jets and use the new orings that come in the kit. It starts and idles like a champ, but dies and wants to backfire with any throttle at all. I assume lean because it will run decent with the choke on. Air screw adjusted fine, nice crisp idle. This one has fuel/air screw, low speed jet, mid jet, and main jet. I was assuming just trash in the low speed circuit so pulled it and cleaned again, still does the same. Two questions I guess: 1. Does it sound most likely trash in the off idle circuit? This one has a few more passages and jets than I'm used to...and a darn diaphragm. 2. It now really wants to leak at the bowl drain screw. It doesn't seem to tighten enough to completely stop the flow. Seat looks good, screw was dirty but cleaned up fine with a touch of 2000 grit paper. First for me. Any idea here?

Ole 220 drove away to it's new home today. Sold it in an hour, quicker than I thought. Older lady bought it to run out to her deer stand. Good to hear itll be used.

Valve lash should be a whisker less than zero so that its zero when oiled up. It just doesnt need to be too tight so that the valves stay open or so loose it chatters and ruins the rocker tip. It would have to be bad wrong to keep it from running.

Man, I had an LT125 and an LT185 both back in the day. Not super fast, but just typical old Suzuki motors. Reliable and smooth. Brings back memories!

Two wires were broken inside of the harness and I had to disassemble the combo switch to rebuild the light section (spring was broke in the contact pad...BTW a pen spring is the same size!) and now we're all good. Need to wrap and loom some wires but it's ready for a new home. VID_126671128_095718_174.mp4

This is the front birds nest I sorted out. Also attached is the before. Under the plastic was a complete mess but its almost sorted now. Tearing into it revealed a mess but its mechanically ok. Runs good, needs a bit more fuel at WOT. Here is the Kodiak. My oldest picked it up for $600 and it just needs front wheel bearings and the trans case leaks. Small things. Only 1300 original miles.