MarkinAR

I'm a fan of Partzilla for anything I can get on there. I have ordered bearings though for hubs and rear diff from All Balls Racing. I'd stay away from any gasket sets or bearings and what not that are cheap ebay sets, i've blown a cheap head gasket and crushed orings from cheaper sets. Usually the bearings are ok but the seals are terrible....and bad seals lead to bad bearings. Some of the hard parts though like a middle drive gear (blew the one apart on my 93 kodiak) I had to go to ebay and get a used one from Grump's ATV. Oh, and welcome to Quad Crazy!

They made motors for Arctic Cat for a while, some Honda stuff. Don't know if there is a direct chart though showing what they white label or build for other companies. Kymco has been around forever so I'm sure they have a finger in all kinds of ATV's.

That's a question I would like to know also. In ordering 300FW parts I notice there is an A and an AN. My assumption is that AN is the Canadian version but I don't know the differences.

For those of us that repair and flip ATVs, oil really eats into profit. To the community I ask; what is the best value in wet clutch approved oil? Any off brands or store brands that work well and are affordable? $7-$13 a quart is just stupid when all ATV oil is is what motor oil was a few years ago before additives. Its not anything special....

@Frank Angerano Picked up a good used primary drive on feebay for $26 or so. Also bought a complete parts bike. Ordered a new drive yoke and clutch cover gasket from partzilla. When parts come in we'll work on switching out the drive housings...hopefully with the motor still in the bike. As long as the transmission gears don't fall it'll be a simple switch and put back together.

@Frank Angerano, it seems you have addressed everything on the pre-combustion and combustion side...what about exhaust. Any chance the something from the header back to the muffler limiting gasses escaping? Maybe it can't move enough gas out to rev? Muffler partially clogged?

Well there ya go. $41 drive yoke failed and blew everything up.

@Frank AngeranoThat sounds like a rev limiter so I'm betting you're on the right track with it being electrical. Cranky plug, internally broken wire somewhere....something along those lines I bet.

I bought a middle of the road gasket kit on the last rebuild and the head gasket blew and orings crushed. Buy OEM on partzilla, it's about $20 difference and you won't be pulling it apart again in 2 weeks.

If the rings are below that nick at TDC then it'll be fine. If the rings go over that though I'd bet it would ruin a ring. Looks awesome otherwise, good work.

Fantastic. The community is here to help. Several of us have had a LOT of 220's over the years so there's quite a bit of knowledge available should you need assistance.

I'm likely going to have to drop the swingarm on a 300FW. Are the lock rings and pivot bolts standard or left handed threads? I looked at the service manual and it doesn't specify left hand so I"m assuming standard right handed threads. Not sure though. The last Yamaha I had apart was regular right handed threads but haven't had a 300 apart before.

Yes. I replaced every gasket from the base cylinder gasket all the way to the top. The oring around the cam cover was also crushed like that...so just crap seals. Sold it last night though so the haunted Kodiak is someone else's issue now. Once the 300 is back together i have a 300 2wd Bayou bought that will be next in line. It just needs basic maintenance and clean up. bought it cheap and should be a good little utility ATV. The Bayou is one of my favorites to flip because they are simple, cheap and reliable.

Ha. Got it back together, started first crank and idled like a champ. But metal on metal clicking like it was about to blow apart. Did some digging and found the exhaust rocker just a bit out of spec and a crushed oring on the rocker cover. Just enough to get them to meet in the middle. Adjusted the exhaust rocker, new oring, filed the cover a bit to clean it up and we're back to good. With the oring crushing like in the attached picture, i'm suspect on the quality of the top end gasket set. Thus....pretty sure the head gasket blew apart because it's crap if it's as bad as the orings.

More or less, the skinny power power from the solenoid goes to the ignition switch, then off to the run/stop/run switch, and then to the starter button then all the way back to the solenoid again. There are a few grounds, neutral safety switch, CDI power, etc along the way but that's basically the route. It's a pretty straight forward pathway of electricity to get back to the solenoid to close the circuit but there are a few stops along the way with a few changes of color of wire. If you have a multimeter you can do a continuity test on the ignition switch then the run/stop/run switch, then the push button since there are connections for all of those right at the front of the frame under the plastics.

If they are on the front there are a couple of accessory wires sticking out that don't go to anything. blue and something else maybe? been a minute since i got into one of those. repair manual is probably in the downloads section, just check the rules on how to access them.

That's a bayou 300. If all 3 wheels locked and it won't roll i'd check the ujoint in the rear axle housing. Just had a Honda 300 blow that ujoint and tear the primary gear drive out of the side of the block when it did. Unfortunately you have to pull the rear diff and slide the axle out of the housing to check but that would be what i would suspect first.

Those shifters like most are just a cable pull. In theory as long as you can solidly mount the shifter unit and solidly mount the middle barrels where you adjust the length then you could use about any shifter. Assuming the number of stops on the shifter is the same anyway.

Ice would be the only option I could think of. Lakota was 2wd and the front and rear brakes were on different functions (rear i think was manual, front was probably manual too if it's like a Bayou) so there's really no common thread other than ice.

There's not too much to look at other than the carnage of the primary output gear. You can pull the clutch packs, take 3 bolts out and slide the gear out of the case. The trick is going to be not letting the trans gears fall into the bottom of the case! Think i'm going to lay the bike on it's side and then chase the output shaft through from the clutch side with a similar sized pipe of some type. In theory, I can just slide the replacement back through, stick the clutches back on and be good to go.

Easy @Frank Angerano, the other group mentioned is a Honda 300 facebook group...I'm a member of no other quad forums...quite honestly there's not another one I've found that's as good. The TRX forum is good but I work on a lot more than Honda. I updated the new thread i created for this issue but I'm reading it's likely the ujoint in the axle tube grenaded and when it did it took out the primary drive housing. Pretty common from what I've read.

To update this thread: Pretty sure it's going to be the one and only u-joint in this bike...the one in the axle tube. Apparently it's not unusual to grenade the u-joint and when it does it blows the side out of the primary output shaft housing. My oldest picked up a complete parts bike for $50 and last night i picked up the housing without the gears on feebay dirt cheap so we have some options. The trick here is going to be getting the broken shaft out and inserting the new one without having to split the case. I've read you can lay it on it's side and slowly slide the old one out and new one in. Or possibly backtrace the old shaft on it's way out with thin tubing.

Separate cover. Another group I'm in said it's not completely unusual on the bike as sometimes the ujoint explodes and takes the primary gear with it. Hoping I can lay it on the side and slide the broken one out and new one in. Alternative is splitting the case.

And the new 300FW is already wounded. Something got in a bind and blew the whole chunk of case out around the primary drive gear at the back of the motor. In the pic you can see the crack along the top...there is a big chunk missing from the bottom. And it won't roll....but the front and rear diffs both seem fine. Unfortunate. This looks to be a bit of a project. Still feels like it will shift through gears so i'm wondering if the ring and pinion just jumped a bit and blew something to pieces. I have a parts bike. But will this require the case to be split and transmission completely disassembled? I assume you can't just slide the broken primary drive out and slide the replacement in?

And the new toy in the shop is already wounded. Something got in a bind and blew the whole chunk of case out around the primary drive gear at the back of the motor. In the pic you can see the crack along the top...there is a big chunk missing from the bottom. And it won't roll....but the front and rear diffs both seem fine. Unfortunate. This looks to be a bit of a project. Still feels like it will shift through gears so i'm wondering if the ring and pinion just jumped a bit and blew something to pieces.