MarkinAR

Bingo on highlighting wires @Frank Angerano. There is really only about 3 current paths on the entire machine, it's just a matter of following each path until it ends and then moving on to the next one. Not hard at all following the diagram. Check the downloads section for rules on download availability though, there are some restrictions to make them available. Air any questions you have, there are a bunch of really smart people in the room at QC.

The next thing I would try is to check continuity on the wires themselves. Start at the battery and check each wire on the battery and plug ends and just see if one is broken internally. Power wire from the solenoid to the switch, switch to start button, start button to relay, relay to solenoid.... it's tedious but there may be an internally broken or shorted wire.

Clutch fibers for the secondary or shoes for the centrifugal? I'm not sure the shoes are available any longer for the main clutch. the last one i had, i just carefully regrooved the shoes and used a dremmel to take some of the ridges out of the drum. It pulled like a champ afterwards. Brake cables are pretty generic and all over ebay. You can order the cheap chinese knockoffs and be fine with a brake cable. Worst case the mechanical foot brake still works. Plastics are tough to get a hand on though. Fairly expensive repop. I'd say patch and scrub the ones on it as clean as you can if they're still there. Plastics alone are nearly what the bike is worth. Tires, whatever is cheap. There aren't a lot of options in the smaller older wheels. SunF and several companies make name brand clones that are fairly inexpensive. valve stem seals i'll only go OEM. I usually order from Partzilla.

test continuity on the plug wire itself and spark plug boot. I had a boot a while ago that was broken somewhere in the 90, no continuity.

Well I'll be. Turns out I had it timed to F instead of T. Bumped it 2 teeth and it runs like a scalded dog. Amazing it ran so well 2 teeth off before.

Guess I've largely discounted timing bc it fired right up after rebuild and runs perfect otherwise. Maybe with increased RPM a slight mistime becomes a won't run situation.

Plug looks good. Guess I'm going to pop the rocker cover off and double check timing. Fire and TDC are like 1/4 from each other. Perhaps I have it timed to fire and not TDC. Runs like a champ otherwise.

Well that wasn't it. Have tried moving fuel clip, cleaned carb and its spotless. Tried another CDI and regulator. It just acts like a rev limiter at 60% and it did not do this before rings and valve stem seals. Stumped.

Yes, but go light so it doesn't end up with RTV in the head. You'd be surprised how bad the orings are that come in pretty much all of the kits other than OEM.

I replaced all of the top end gaskets on a quad a while back and after about 5 rides it had blown the head gasket and was leaking oil around the valve covers. The rubber in the orings was just weak and so they crushed when installing and it was leaking. Ended up replacing most of the gaskets again with OEM and it had no issues.

Gobs of clearance but too much tire. It needs gear reduction to turn them in peanut butter. Just have to go slow and not burn the clutches out.

Same. Its actually left over metal from when I made a battery tray for the Kodiak we used to have. wife was busting my chops about scraps of wood and metal just last weekend! Here is what it looks like now with 28's and 420 Rancher shocks.

Think it may have been the bowl gasket. I drew a bead of ultra gray and let it dry. Put it together and it seems to be back to normal. I also made a pump block off out of thin steel. The diaphragm looked a but rough and we never need the manual pump so it's just blocked off now. I left the pump so I could reuse the original screws but it's just decorative.

Was considering running a bit of silicone to test before I ordered a rebuild kit just for the bowl gasket. Thanks for confirming a hunch. The gasket is all there, it's just flat from years of use. Probably the original 98.

So here's one I haven't beat yet, could use some input. Honda 300FW was running fine when one day it started bogging at WOT. Figured dirty carb so I cleaned it and still the same. Cleaned again once more by soaking overnight in thinner and then compressed air. Back together tonight and still falling at WOT. Tried a known good plug...nothing makes sense here. The float bowl does seap a bit due to old gasket, could it draw vacuum enough to interrupt fuel?

If it runs strong for 25 minutes, even if it's blowing smoke, I don't see engine replacement needed. Even if rings are completely shot there's rarely any variation between perceived power cold and hot. I'm leaning more towards what Frank mentioned above; fuel starvation or some component getting hot like coil, regulator, etc. I'm willing to bet it's a pretty simple answer if you can do some basic troubleshooting.

@Frank AngeranoSolid info as usual. He said earlier it would jump crossing the solenoid so that means power is good to the starter. The issue can only be neutral safety switch, solenoid white wire, ignition switch, start push button or relay...in that order.

Nice Fluke! I use a 73 series 3 i've had for probably 15 years or so. Can't properly diagnose without a good multimeter!

Just laid out the plans for a 12x25 deck to run by the patio out to the pool deck. Part of the back yard stays wet so we'll just put a deck over it.

Other than the Bayou line, the only Kawasaki I see for sale are a few older King Quads, great machines BTW, and broken brute force 750s. The broken 750s you cant give away down here. Oddly though, the Kawasaki Teryx 1000 may be the best sport UTV on the market. Dependable and fast as a turbo razr.

The brute force has a real problem with throwing valves into the piston on one of the cylinders. Think it happens around 1200 hours maybe? I forget, there's some common age where they ALL do it. And it ruins the head, cylinder, valves, piston, etc. It's a pretty tragic failure.

I traced a similar issue on a Bayou once, and it turned out the solenoid was bad. There is a white wire that comes out of the solenoid and it's the 12V+ that goes to the ignition switch (on a 98 anyway). Somehow the solenoid was bad internally and not allowing power through to the white wire. Replaced that and then I could hear the starter relay click, then traced it from there and had it turning over about an hour later.

I'm not sure if the same CDI was used the entire run between 87 and 95, but I know the early Moto 4 CDI's were actually the CDI used on the last year of the 3 wheeler. It was unlike the rest of the Yamaha quad line and is quite an oddity. Do the 2 extra wires connect to wires in the harness? Or do they connect to blank spots on the plug?

I can't find anything that specifically tells the difference but I notice in consulting the googles... the 44D31 is most often mentioned for motorcycle and 44D21 is most often mentioned for the Quadmaster. And Amazon lists the same knock off regulator replacing both the 21 and 31 models. So who knows. Is there a part number anywhere on yours to cross reference?

Odd on the valves being loose. Valve stem seal's only job is to keep oil from running down the stem into the chamber. They don't hold the valves in place. So if the valves were sloppy with the head off i'd think the guides were shot and need replacing. That would also cause compression issues if the valves wiggle on the seat.