MarkinAR

Timing being off can cause all kinds of issues. My son's 300 would run perfect up to 60% throttle and then die off. Timing was 2 whole teeth off. Pretty good chance it's off and causing the issue. That is assuming you adjust valves correctly to spec.

Timing would be my next thing to check. A tooth off can cause the issue.

Another odd issue I had with a clone carb once was the needle point. It had a blunt taper on it so it was slower to open fuel. I had to switch that from an old carb also that has a smooth needle design.

Regional adjustment is a bear on those. I'd hit FB market and Craig's list and see if you can get a baseline. Here in the southern US they're worth about $500 in really decent shape.

Use the old jets if they will interchange and I bet it'll perk up. Good reason to change carbs though, those dual throttle cables are way expensive. I've used a couple of zoom zoom carbs and they're not terrible. Last one i had the jets were stamped with a knock off K for kehin and weren't even close to spec. I used the old jets and it wasn't too bad. matter of fact I have a box full of clone jets bc i just can't make them run perfect.

Just have to check the plug. Could be rich or lean. Jets in Chinese carbs are sometimes the wrong size or not stamped at all so they are tough to tune. If you have the old carb use the old jets if you can. I've used chinese from zoom zoom and they're decent for a clone but still hard to fine tune.

Did you use the same choke plunger for both carbs? I don't remember if that carb has a cable and plunger or what. Is the choke part of the carb?

For you guys that have full time 4wd like a Honda 300, 350 Rancher, etc that is all time 4wd Warn used to make a 424 that was a manual disconnect that replaced the front drive shaft. Warn sold the patent to Wide Open and they made a cheaper made unit. They were about 300 but are out of production. The few left are bringing 800 now. So here's my question; Maybe I'm reaching here, but since there is basically no such thing as a 424 anymore, have any of you fine folks thought through whether you can make a transfer case that will disconnect? If you could move either gear forward a half inch it would be disconnected. Thoughts?

Glad you got it, I knew you would. Once everything is correct it almost puts itself together. Now just triple check timing. It can be tricky if the chain isn't new.

It has real replaceable ball joints and decent looking calipers so it's not a chinese junker. Can't tell from that angle though what it is. Side or rear shot would help.

Look at the ends of the spring and see if it looks like it has been cut. Often folks take the cheap route to lower it and cut a coil off the spring.

Looks fairly normal to me. As long as the bottom sits in its groove the top is just suspended. The kodiak I had apart you could flick the forward guide forward and backward a bit with the chain tensioner out.

Check the (white?) 12V output wire of the solenoid that goes to the ign switch, make sure it has power. I had a Kawasaki a bit ago that wasn't providing output voltage even though the solenoid itself was ok. Also, have you checked continuity in the ignition switch to make sure it's good? there's only 4 poles usually; 12V in, 12V out, and the other two are just a circuit that closes to interrupt the CDI to kill the motor when you turn the switch off. Have you checked continuity on the start button to make sure it's making contact when depressed? I think you almost have it licked, just one more little issue here to trace down.

If it's like the 93 Kodiak I had apart recently, there is a valley at the bottom of the front (not adjusting) the timing chain guide goes in to. The top of that adjuster just kind of "sticks up" into the rocker cover. It seems that I got the front guide in a bind and noticed that it touched the chain so it sounds like you've done that also. Just have to get it seated right, may have to lift and lower the head a dozen times and then it just magically sits down cleanly.

Have you checked the air fuel screw to see how its adjusted? Black plug is rich and given it's hard to start I'm betting it's over fueling trying to start. Chinese carb doesn't prove much bc they are so poorly set up sometimes they just won't run. Could also be valves slightly tight or timing a tooth off.

Good question. I wonder if there is a difference in retrofitting older winches with synthetic vs new winches meant for synthetic. Could be...

I'm not that familiar with the 90 motors so I'd just Google and find a good performance site and do some reading.

Finished a 12x24 deck to cover a wet spot that's just not useable until dry summer. Now it can stay wet and I don't care.

@davefrombc You have any experience on Arctic Cat wheel bearings? I'd assume they are like most and can be driven out with a bearing and seal driver but never been into one.

The adjuster will sometimes get in a bind when you put the case back on too and cause odd pressure on the clutch plates. As Frank said, I'd drain and refill with wet clutch approved oil as modern auto oils have so many friction modifiers that they'll make a clutch slip. Especially a worn older centrifugal clutch. Oh, and smoking now but wasn't before either has to be residual oil from being pulled apart and put back together or valves were damaged when the timing chain broke. Did you do a compression test after getting it back together? Curious if a valve is slightly bent.

I'd be careful with the synthetic winch lines. Those allow uneven pressure on the winch spool and it's pretty common to break the spool out of the winch. Hard braided lines are murder on your hands but it distributes the weight along the entire spool....never seen a spool break with braided steel lines. I've seen several break with synthetic.

I got a half flat bed load of wood dropped off yesterday...so I guess this afternoon we'll be building a deck. Looks like it's going to be warm and sunny here though, so it's a good day to work outside.

Metric vs empirical

Likely just sucked water into the carb. The white smoke is most likely water burning off from being in the fuel. I'd pull the carb apart, clean it good and reassemble. That assumes the white smoke is not blue oil smoke, and in which case it's most likely a seized or cracked ring. But you can tell the difference....burned oil smells like crap and steam from water in the fuel doesn't have a smell.

You can put 1/2 of a q-tip in a drill and lightly clean the float valve seat and get them pretty darn shiny. Just don't get over aggressive and scratch the seat.