MarkinAR

@automatcentral I could have my oldest do some testing and feedback on his Honda 420. He does some pretty harsh riding in mud/water/whatever and gets a pretty good feel for what works and what doesn't. The last light bar he tried lasted a month and started collecting water behind the lens. BTW, your website is down. @automatcentral Actually, I would like a bit of clarification first please. Are you offering a refund once the product is purchased and reviewed like you did in the Durango forum? If so, then disregard my offer of test/review.

After you turn it over a bit, does the plug get wet with fuel? If there is fuel in the bowl and spark, then the issue could be timing is off (could be sparking at the wrong time), valves could be tight or loose, flywheel keyway could be sheared. I'd start with checking timing to make sure it's spot on at TDC, then hit it with a touch of ether and see if it'll bust. If it does, then it's a fuel delivery issue. Have to go back into the carb and check the jets as there could be an obstruction. If it doesn't at least try to bust on ether then i'd look at compression. Could be that it has too little to run due to stuck or worn rings. That thing is beautiful for an 87, what a find!

You may be right sir. Didn't catch that there seems to be no drum.

Snorkel mount I made for this. One of the difficulties with snorkel mounts is being able to remove it for service. Two bolts and everything comes apart on this one.

You can see in the pic the lower cable is slightly pulled. I'd loosen both off and make sure the brake arm moves freely. If it moves freely, then look at the cable. I'm assuming the lower one is a hard line that goes to the foot brake? Is it slightly depressed? Maybe some lube and everything that moves and it'll come back to life. either that or the rear shoes are so worn that the cam is stuck between the shoes.

I'm not sure the similarities between the single and double cable carbs enough to say if one rebuild kit will fit another. I do know though that the only thing i ever use in a rebuild kit is the needle valve and seals. So if the bowl gasket looks the same for a single cable carb I would think you'd be about good to go. Most of those I run across have already been fitted with a single cable carb.

Mostly complete here, enough to see its ATC roots.

Not familiar with that machine. Is the spark plug buried too deep to get a regular socket on? If so, you can pick up a chain saw and lawn mower spark plug tool from most hardware stores that will fit down in the hole.

Ah, gotcha. Heat maybe?

For $1.83 a piece, i'd buy new and not bust my knuckles. May also be able to pick them up at the parts store as they're just M10's I think. Same as several Japanese cars. https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/90103-HN8-300?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6OWKzsnA6gIVCr3ACh2sCAqREAQYASABEgKiXvD_BwE

just buy new studs, they aren't but a buck a piece or so. Worst case, put the lug nut on the stud backwards and smack it with a hammer, it'll pop out. good call on the SATV disc conversion. Drums are stupid.

Basketcases are always so much fun. There used to be a Raptor service manual in the downloads section so I'd start there and run down any loose wires and odd items hanging around. Sounds like you do indeed have a fuel related issue but it could be harness or ground as much as pump. I think you're real close, just one more hurdle to hear it run.

CDI either runs or doesn't, normally. Any intermittent issue with CDI is frequently once they get hot or wet. I'm still betting it's fuel pump. You said "more expensive one" but that doesn't always mean as good as OEM. this is all assuming though that it's a fuel related issue. Could be heat shutting down a coil, compression leak on a sticky valve or head gasket...quite a bit to narrow down. What made you go to fuel pump as the possible culprit? Just curious.

Check the plug, but it's probably running lean. Running too lean can indeed burn a piston.

Stock bore with high compression will almost always outrun the big bore. The thing about larger bore size is higher torque, but not necessarily more power. You gain CC's, but it takes more to push that much more air thus minimizing the larger bore size. And of course the larger bore comes at a cost of cylinder wall thickness, thus more heat. If i were building a runner for flat out hauling as* in a straight line, i'd go high compression small bore. If i were doing trail riding and needed torque at lower RPM, go 416 and add a larger oil cooler. In either case though, you need to bump to good head studs and some machine work so it doesn't blow the head off. Now that I think about it, I might still go higher compression, head studs, and drop a tooth on the front so it would rip around the trees. Like any engine being built though, it's mostly preference over anything else. A 400ex is not going to compete with a Banshee in a straight line, and it will struggle to pull like a 450 around trees, but it's still my favorite all purpose sport quad.

@tnhomestead Thanks, those are Brute Force 750 wheels with the back two flipped around... BF was IRS. I did quite a bit of prep to try and get the gold to stick, we'll see how it works out. The idea here was to create a tribute to the 85/86 ATC250R, possibly the best looking ATC Honda created, IMHO. You can see in the pic below the inspiration.

@Ajmboy You're right, RK sells the Hisun. Tractor Supply sells BIg Horn which at one point was made by Bennche, don't know who makes them now. When Bennche made them, they were consistently a 2/5 rating, complete crap. Hisun seems to be rated a little better, but still has to be considered as a lower to mid grade UTV. Maybe if you consider price first, they don't do too bad like most Chinese machines. If you're paying 10K you expect it to be pretty near perfect, but for 5k there is more room given for error.

Are those the ones at tractor supply? Those are Chinese junk.

Have you tested the plug wire and boot? I had a bad boot once new in box. It was cheap chinese so my fault. I'm still not convinced it's not CDI. There is no way to properly test a CDI so my advice would be to bake the CDI for 5 minutes or so at 250 maybe and see if you get spark then. CDI doesn't even really do much until its powered and triggered to work so resistance testing wouldn't tell much.

Good point, I was thinking about clutch less as that's all I've worked on lately. C

Fresh carb kit and we're running pretty decent. Kicked right off on the 1st compression stroke with the kick start. Glad it has a kicker, this dude has some compression and would break a rope start.

Wow, grand total of ONE used OEM carb on all of ebay. China carbs are definitely junk, but you can help them a lot by using the original OEM jets if you happen to have those. I've used a few chinesium clones to limited success using the OEM jets.

If you want it to start in gear, you just have to ground out the neutral safety switch. Pretty common practice on mud rigs so that you don't have to find neutral in a mudhole. Not near as common on a sport quad.

Drove around the neighborhood last night on this one. Runs great, new clutch fibers are perfect. Needle valve started pouring gas so ordered a carb kit last night. This one sat dry too long and rubber is hard. Check out the leaks on this fine chinesium slip on.

How do you know the CDI is bad? Just curious since there's no way to actually test them. Not being smart, I genuinely want to know if there is some way that I don't know about.