MarkinAR

How do you know the CDI is bad? Just curious since there's no way to actually test them. Not being smart, I genuinely want to know if there is some way that I don't know about.

On the topic of parts, it really depends on what I need. Most anything like a CDI, reg/rect, stator, etc I'll go to ebay first and look for 2nd hand OEM. Any consumable parts like brake and throttle cable, bulbs, etc I'll look all over. Usually start at Amazon because I'm lazy. For any important hard parts like rings, specific thrust washers and so on I used Partzilla for years but have recently moved to using Babbitt's Online. They have a pretty handy app that I can look stuff up on while I'm working on an ATV. Partzilla's ship times also have gone to crap. I do go to the local owned parts store though for bearings whenever possible. The brake drum side bearing on a Honda 300 is $40 from Honda, but I get a Timken from the local parts store (non chain) for $6.03.

I use whatever ATV specific oil is available locally, it's all too high. It HAS to be JASO rated so that's either going to be ATV specific oil or Rotella T. Seat covers, I quit making them years ago. With modern ATV's the only way to make a cover fit is to cut and stitch, they don't just wrap from a flat piece anymore. So $36 or whatnot for a cover that fits properly and I just have to stretch and staple? That's the way I go.

I've had a few "top notch parts" in the past and they will work for some stuff, not for others. I would worry about tolerances. That chinese made stuff usually lacks QC and a clutch has to be exact. Personally, I'd look for used OEM before I bought chinese junk when it comes to a clutch, piston, other hard parts that require tight tolerances.

Modern ATV's remind me of modern vehicles. My wife's 2015 Mustang was having power loss at highway speed but would take off normal. 2 days of troubleshooting, no codes thrown, settled on it being a low pressure fuel pump and resigned to taking it to the dealer. Noticed last night brake lights stayed on. So I shimmed the brake light switch and fixed the power loss...guess it was triggering pseudo limp mode. I bring that up to say....modern ATV's are too darn complicated and hard to troubleshoot.

Displacement is generally stamped somewhere towards the bottom of the cylinder. It looks like the usual 90cc Tao Tao or whatever name brand chinese quad. Most of them are basically Honda clones. i'm a bit concerned on the slipping though. that's chain driven so it should be normal primary and secondary clutch like any other ATV. if it slipped, and was truly slipping in gear, then the only way for water to make it slip would be if there were water in the case making the primary clutch slip. Check the oil and make sure it's not milky.

Plus, they are like $1200. For a smooth hundo I have tri fold aluminum ramps that are 10 years old and fit any truck or trailer. While that's a neat product it may be a case of just because you can make it doesnt mean you should.

Overly complicated and floppy. Even brand new he was struggling to close them. For what they cost you could pick up a small trailer and be way safer and more convenient.

Thanks. i'll build every one I can get my hands on. Problem here in the south is these things are way overpriced and few and far between that folks want to let go of them.

98 Big Bear 2WD and 4WD were both drum front brakes. Are you positive it's a Big Bear? Not trying be dismissive, just curious b/c they should be drum brakes.

In terms of percentage increase not much. 450 carb could make it a little snappier but its probably not worth the expense. HMF slip on is not any better than DG, however changing the header does help. It'll run a tad harder. What airbox mod do you mean? Most folks chunk the lid and that's stupid for anything but race. the last one I had we blocked off the intake with a krylon can and poked holes in the lid. it could still breathe but got cleaner air under the seat. No increase, just preference. Also, any changes in intake have to be reflected in fuel increase. Larger main jet is necessary for more air flow.

I've been using Babbitt's lately. Partzilla is taking 3 weeks to get in stock parts shipped. Plus Babbitts has an app that makes looking stuff up easier.

View File 2011 Yamaha Raptor YFM125RA Service Manual 2011 Yamaha Raptor YFM125RA Service Manual Submitter MarkinAR Submitted 06/17/2020 Category Yamaha ATV  

@Admin It is there now. Forgot to put something in the description box and just stepped off the page instead of waiting it out. My bad. The Raptor is a 125S and those from oxidized are the A variant. Small gizz or whatever those small utilities were called. Thanks for jumping in so quick!

I didn't see it either, but I just uploaded the 125 Raptor service manual. It will appear as soon as it's approved by a moderator. @Admin

I'm going with defective new regulator. have you checked wire to wire on the new one and see if they all ohm out the same? I'd bet 1 of the 3 phases is bad.

Willing to bet the parts that you replaced were done so with chinese junk from ebay or amazon, correct? Put the OEM parts back on. next step, check the timing. sounds a lot like timing is retarded a couple teeth. I'd check timing and the timing chain lash because they only jump time when the chain is stretched. I didn't mention the most obvious and most likely issue of fuel because I'm pretty sure you said not to mention it.

Right on, glad you got it knocked out. Keep up the good work and you'll have one good as new.

Can't be an electrical related issue if it runs on ether. You have narrowed it down to a fuel delivery problem. How do you know its getting fuel?

Take the spark plug out and put a bit of marvel mystery oil or ATF in the cylinder. Let it set a day or two and see if it will turn over. Sounds like the rings may have seized.

I would test the regulator. that looks like voltage is all over the place.

I rent tools from Autozone all the time for specialty stuff.

That would work if rebuilding the diff, but I misunderstood what you have that needs fixing. I updated what I said above to reflect just replacing the axle bearings. I completely forgot there are bearings and seals at the ends of the axle on a Bayou. You'll need a blind bearing puller if you want to try without pulling the whole rear axle apart. And I don't know if that works for sure. Yeah, the guy in the 2nd link has it figured out. The guy that pulled everything was doing it by the manual. A manual always does it the hard way so you can check everything while its apart. I like the easy way.