robdoyle

Do you have the Service Manual pdf yet? (You might need to have at least 10 posts to be allowed to download. By the time you answer the question, you'll be there!) Anyway, the "Ignition Circuit" tests the you want are on page 7-21 to 7-26 of that manual. You'll need a voltmeter for the resistance tests. (I use the cheap red Harbor Freight one that everyone else uses. Harbor Freight Item #63759 https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html) Sorry I can't tell you exactly what the connector looks like or where it is. My 2012 Big Bear is different and the pictures in the 1987 pdf manual are not great, but it shows a 4-wire harness (yellow/green/gray/blue) coming out of the left side of the engine case (there is a picture of the stator and CDI rotor on page 3-15), which you need to disconnect to test the resistance of each of two pickup coil windings. You should also test the resistance of the source coil winding and the ignition coil primary and secondary windings. (the resistance values are on page 7-24 and 7-25). Basically you should follow the whole test procedure and do ALL the tests, and record the results and see if anything is out of spec. There may be several values that are marginal and together they reduce the system efficiency.

Oh, yeah, and I forgot to mention RockAuto is a great online source for parts, if you can wait a couple days for shipping. I often find the same part for WAY less, exact same brand and part number, that they sell in the big chain stores! I generally buy from the chain stores only when I need something same day.

Hey bradleyheathhays, Good job finding that starter problem! I've had good luck with starters from places like O'Reilly's/AdvanceAuto etc. And when you do the work youself, it's less of a risk if you have to do it again in a few years compared to someone who has to pay a shop to do it, so go ahead and save some money. I've also had good luck pulling used parts from yards, although fewer in my area are letting customers pull parts themselves these days. It's a good way to get original quality parts for cheap. That '96 is the last year with the original AMC dash before Chrysler updated it, right? I've got a 2000 XJ that my father-in-law gave to me when the cylinder head cracked, he was fed up with it! I've had to fix a bunch of stuff on it, but the 4WD works great and I've been plowing with it the past 3 winters. I plan to put in a 2WD-LO kit from TeraFlex to make it easier to make tight turns in low range. Do you have any off-road mods on yours?

You're welcome! Well, since it restarts so reliably, that suggests that the battery and starter connections are ok. But the cold start issue remains. You have to use the pull start when the engine is cold (and only with the OE starter in place), and then the starter works when the engine is warm. You're not the only Yamaha owner with this problem. I found these similar threads: https://www.bluetraxx.com/threads/2000-warrior-pull-starts-it-runs-starter-wont-run.81426/ and https://www.bluetraxx.com/threads/2004-yamaha-warrior-350-wont-start-with-electric-button-but-starts-with-push-pull.82708/ Basically they are also suspecting that the spark is weak and testing the stator. If you have a voltmeter you could try those tests on your stator. However, it might not be so bad to live with it like it is, since you are able to get it running when you want. Let us know whatever you decide to do

Most important thing is to keep oil in it! Change all the fluids so you know they're good: engine oil, gearbox oil (if not shared with engine), and front and rear diff oils Watch for leaks of those fluids and keep them filled up. Look for fluids dripping from low points. Its easy to overlook leaks on a dirty atv! My 2001 Honda Rancher was losing rear diff oil and it was leaking past the right side axle seal, down the inside of the axle tube and coming out at the rear wheel and dripping off the drum brake. Other things will make it run badly but running it low will kill it. Make sure it has an air filter or screen and keep it clean. Try not to over rev it. And ride it regularly! Enjoy!

If you're still trying to determine the exact model, and all the stickers are gone, try looking for embossed or printed part numbers on parts that are likely to be specific to that model, such as plastic body panels. When you find one, google that part number and part suppliers will list which years and models it is for, and you can narrow it down. You will also find them on metal parts like shock bodies, ball joint caps and bearing races. Good luck!

I want one! Please post some pics with all three wheels on. Is that a 2-stroke engine? No wonder it's fast.

Yeah I agree with MarkinAR, its probably not re-charging the battery while running, so after a few rides the battery is low and there isn't enough power to fire the spark plugs when trying to start. If you have a voltmeter, then check your battery voltage when it's not running (should be around 12.75v), then again when it is running (should be around 14v). If you don't have one, then does it crank noticeably slower and headlights dimmer when it is struggling to start - that's how you can tell the battery is low without a voltmeter. You can jump it with a car and car jumper cables if you're careful (negative to ATV frame and positive to ATV battery +) and if that works, then the problem is the charging system or battery.

Hey Billy, Assuming you've got all the battery cable and engine ground wire ends shiny clean (using wire brush or sandpaper) there's one more thing to check. Has the starter motor ever been removed? Do its mounting bolts look corroded? It grounds through the frame, so make sure the metal is shiny clean where the starter touches the engine. You could be getting a voltage drop there.

Could be. Did you check the battery for 12 volts? If battery is OK, then remove seat and see if the battery relay (the cylindrical thing next to the battery) clicks when you turn the key, and/or test for 12 volts on the output side of the relay. Check for 12volts at the key switch harness connector.

Hey guys, new owner here of a 2001 Honda Rancher 350 4x4 manual shift and I am loving this little machine so far! However, the previous owner has mounted a Kimpex Nomad storage trunk/passenger seat and some random passenger pegs. The side bars that carry the passenger pegs are only bolted to the cargo rack - the lower ends are not attached! They end with a small triangular plate with a hole for a mounting bolt, but there is no place to bolt it to the Rancher foot peg - so they must have been designed for a different ATV. The Nomad is a pretty nice looking setup, but it has clearly overloaded the rear cargo rack and broke two of the rack mounting ears on the frame. I am planning to take it all apart and repair the mounting ears and beef up the cargo rack. What is your opinion of running one of these "passenger seats" on this size of ATV? Are there any potential problems besides exceeding the weight limit of the cargo rack?