Mech

You just poke the screwdriver end in from the right side of the bike on a suzuki, (after taking off a small bit of black plastic if it has one in the way), then raise/lever the screw driver up into the idle mixture screw's recess, turn the pulley on the outer end till the screwdriver engages, and then turn the outer gear to adjust the mixture. I'm always careful to keep the belt from touching the hot motor,(it's pretty close), but it has touched a few times and seems reasonable heat resistant. That's the third design of tool I've made and far and away the simplest and best to use. From one pulley to the other is about two-hundred mills, the screwdriver length is a bit critical because if it's too long the pulley won't fit above a cast bit of the bowl, and if it's too short it won't engage with the screw. I left the screwdriver a bit long until it had the gear pressed on, then held the bolt head in the vise while I cut it to the right length and filed it to a screwdriver end. I think from memory there's about five mills of leeway on the length of screwdriver, perhaps a little less, three mills perhaps. The printer I pulled apart had several gears I could have used, but I could see that a small diameter would give more room.. As it happened a gear any bigger than the one I used would have touched the carby and caused the screwdriver to be at an angle. I can measure the diameter if you want. That belt by the way is like a cam belt, it's got teeth on it so it's a solid drive.

Not me. The thing about the plastic is that it takes the knocks so well.. The plastic before it's been in the sun for years is tough and flexible as.. I've patched broken old plastics with alloy plate underneath but it got bent eventually and distorted the plastic out of place so I had to panelbeat the alloy again. Metal will get bent... Well it does around here ! And if it makes you feel any better.. My sons used to ride a bike like that, in our swamp, and getting covered in stinking mud.. They loved it.

Yup, little things like the different wiring on an identical looking speedo is usual. It's the same with cars. Mostly the other parts will fit, if we swap all the other parts that go with it, such as changing one gear needing a new shaft for it to fit on, and then another gear on the other shaft..haha. Bastards !

There are probably hundreds of differences Oz. They change the general model every few years, but in all makes, and any model range, there will be heaps of parts differences. They change the carby specs(jets and needles for instance), just about every year, even though they are the same basic model of carby. They change stators and electrical systems a lot too. Gears and shafts change, sometimes because it's a superseded part design, and sometimes to give different ratios in different years. Most of the service manuals cover a lot of years. They have all the stuff common to every model in the front, then at the end they list what was different for different years. Keep posting till you've got permission to download a manual. Possibly download a couple. It's quite common once a bike's a few years old for things to have been changed, sometimes with a later part, like a suspension arm for instance. You need to read the manual and get to know the bike to be sure what you've got. In some respects the X and Y are the same, and mostly the K is different.

Glad it helped.

You can look parts up online here... https://www.mickhone.com.au/partFinder/fiche/suzuki/2000#next . Then click the arrow on the right side of the listings, it will tell you what other models the parts fit. There are different listings for the LTF300 and the LTF300 F.. Compare parts and you will figure what you have.

Gidday Oz. Welcome along. Kiwi here.

I'd leave the hat on the shelf for now. It's possible you had two problems, which can really confuse the issue. Well done for getting to the bottom of it.

And the engine size and year ?

There are other places to download from.. https://quads.ddns.net/service-manuals/ https://www.manualslib.com/ There are dozens more..

The year would be good... Engine size perhaps.. And you haven't told me whether you tried the things I've suggested you try.. Like rocking the bike.

If you don't know the model identification, tell us whether it's two or four wheel drive, auto or manual, what country you are in, even the colour of the bodywork would help.. There are dozens of model of bayou.

Oops.. posted in the wrong thread.

Well it could be as simple as a bent shifter shaft. To address your two immediate concerns, did you try starting it by holding the brakes on ? Did you try getting it into neutral by rocking the bike back and forwards as you tried changing the gears ? If we get those two things sorted then I could suggest some tests you could try to diagnose it... We need to know more information. You haven't told us if it's two or four wheel drive, manual or auto clutch, year. It's really hard to guess what your problem could be without knowing a bit about the bike. Could you tell us what year it is, and the model if possible.

I was really wanting to know if is this a model with a front diff you can disengage ? Or is permanently in four wheel drive ? If you can make it into two wheel drive try it like that... It's sounding though as if it is a problem in the gearbox.. You could drain the gearbox oil and check for metal chips, or chunks..

You need to describe what happened and what you've tried so far. Does the gear change lever move at all ? Did it stall and now's stuck in gear? Has it been siting for a year ? You need to tell us more... If it's turned off and you rock the bike back and forwards while you try moving the gear change it might come out of gear.

Some bikes start in gear if you have the brakes on.. Have you tried that ? You say it seems like it's stuck in gear.. could you tell us about the circumstances under which this problem arose ?

Well I'd try taking the belt off first, that will confirm it's the gearbox. And can you disengage the front diff ?

Oh ok. We had a similar problem the other week, turned out to be browser security settings. I use linux and don't have security.. The kit they were advertising was $22 kiwi.. about fourteen bucks yanky I think. Maybe... http://tiny.cc/sy3puz

I've always found time to help anyone that wants to learn by doing their own work.. for free. Hope you all enjoy it, and the beers.

https://www.joom.com/en/products/5d8596348b45130101460664 Look right ? You're welcome.

Arctic cat manual says it has a CVK36.. CD and CV are the same thing.. Constant depression or constant vacuum...

Yeah that dot punched number will be the one I'd think.. It describes the exact setup, options, jet sizes etc There should probably be another cast number telling you the venturi size, but maybe not. That punched number should find you the parts you need.

If he's a mate he will be all good for two beer drinking sessions.. You'll just have to drive twice as far.. Small price to pay though.

Yup there should be a number, possibly CDK 36 or CDK 42.. The numbers refer to the venturi size. If you can't find the number, look at photos. The overhaul kit will fit several different venturi sizes as long as it is a CDK. If you google Keihin, which is the make I think, you might find it.