mikeexplorer

Thanks much for ur reply. Couple questions:

1) how do I know if my atv is a 400 act or 400 fis?

FIS is "Fully Independent Suspension" if you have cv joints and two springs in the rear, it is an FIS model.

2) how do I test functionality of auto choke electricly? Everything else is working as it should.

It is not an electrical part, the warming of the engine shuts it off.

3) would it damage the carb/engine if I sprayed (sparingly) BG carb cleaner in the air intake as a last ditch effort before overhauling/replacing carb. I have already put a few oz of seafoam in the gas tank which actually did help a little bit?

Try a stronger dose of Seafoam, it may clear the problem up. I have done this with good results. I also add a dash of Seafoam every other tankful.

4) any info on removing front axles from differential as noted in 1st post in this thread ?

Here is a step by step guide with pictures. I used this guide myself

CV Boot replacement with pics - ArcticChat.com - Arctic Cat Forum

Thanks for the help!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would use the gift card to help repair the damage caused by this roll. I guess Cats don't always land on their paws.

Mike

Yeah got that one too, I am sure its too good to be true :roflc:

Here is one I recieved today from Joymab

Hello,

My name is Joy, a young caring girl i saw your contact on QUADCRAZY ATV Community and i want to have a

good relationship with you, please i need your cooperation,you can contact me with my email address,

so that i will give you my pictures and tell you more about me

([email protected] )

am yours Joy.

thanks,

Joy

I cannot directly post the schematic because the file is too big. To reduce it to attach it would make it unreadable. Instead you can get the schematic and print it out here with this procedure.

http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/arctic-cat-atv-forum/10091-extract-print-arctic-cat-atv-schematics.html

From looking at the schematic. and if I understand what you mean, the quad will shut right off once the starter button is released? This would also mean your cranking the starter continuously. (not a good thing to do) I would check a few things.

- Make sure the ground wires are secure and making good contact

- Check the "neutral relay" it may be defective.

- There is a diode that might also be bad, used as part of the starter circuit.

- Check fuse #6 (accessory)

Mike

The high current leads go directly to the battery for the winch. You should have two cables on each terminal. They will lead down to the direction relay that controls the winch's direction. Attached is the wiring diagram for a typical warn winch.

Mike

I am sure it will be purring like a kitten

Sounds like a good price for the work being done. You should be in good shape after that. Should have many trouble free miles.

I have not worked on EFI machines (both my Cats are carb'ed) but did you check the fuel pump to make sure its working properly? That is my only guess (suggestion)

Mike

Sorry not a record, my 2007 400 hit 11,000 miles this past November.

Hopefully when the valve is fixed you will be back up & running.

Mike

I am hoping that someone here can give me some more ideas. Our poor old red 300 won't start. We rode it, running fine, shut it off and now it won't start. Have gas to the carb and spark at the plug. Valves are adjusted. Still won't start. Tried a little starting fluid in the air chamber and still won't start. This poor old machine has 7000 miles on it. That has to be an Arctic Cat record! And I have never touched the engine besides setting the valves. Unfortunatly it looks like it only has 60 psi of compression. Don't understand how it could be running fine and then nothing. Someone give me a clue as to what I am missing or what to check. I was going to rebuild the top end this next spring but didn't want to do that this winter in a non-heated garage. Any help?

If your plowing fluffy snow, the intake may have sucked in some snow. I would also check the intake for snow obstructions, the tires can sometime sling snow to the underside and that is where the intake is.

Mike

2007 models are known to have wiring problems. I know as I have rebuilt both the front and rear wiring harness. You can save yourself some future grief if you take the plastics off and cover the harness with some spiral wrap. The first picture is when I blew out my front harness, fried 12 wires.

Mike

Parts should not be a problem, I did a quick lookup on Country Cats site and they have all the parts listed for the machine.

Arctic Cats did use both Suzuki and Kawasaki motors.

Mike

Country Cats website does have the parts breakdown for that model and it shows it is a gravity fed system and not a fuel pump. You should have an on/off/reserve fuel valve along the side.

Maybe the tank isn't venting properly, next time it dies out like your planning to add gas, open the tank, but don't add an fuel, then try starting it. If the vent is plugged, you will be creating a vacuum in the tank after some gas is used up and it won't allow anymore to flow. Opening it up to fill it releases the vacuum.

Mike

Yes the 450 is the full sized chassis. The mid sized ones are the 366 and 425i. I have both types, my girl rides the 366. I am 5'6" and 220lbs and I do tend to like the larger frame quad. (though the 366 is a nice riding machine)

Mike

Hello I'm a new guy from sd. I've got a basic question. I'm 6 foot and 300lbs. I found a good deal on a 2010 arctic cat 450. H1. But is this atv too small for me? I don't want to look like a Damn circus bear on a moped. I keep hearing this is a "larger chassis" 4wheeler. Soooooooo close to the size of a 700 just with a smaller motor??? I guess when I hear of 450cc atv I think small motorcycle lol

Yes the 366 is air cooled. I didn't realize the 425 is liquid cooled.

However, the way my girl likes to hit the water holes, I might as well say its liquid cooled :roflc:

I have had the front plastics off the 366, not that hard to do but that seems a bit extreme to just change out the air filter.

I was just thinking. Isn't the 366 Air cooled? Mine is water cooled and the coolant reservoir is about 1/2 inch in front of that air filter top. That explains a lot. instead of completely re-engineering for the liquid cooled engine they just stuffed things where ever they would fit.

I think yours is basically the same as the 366 model, does the lid to the air filter look like the picture? It is a bit of a pain to change it out. What I do is use a 1/4 inch socket to loosen the clamp from the air filter top to the intake snorkle. Then disconnect it from the air box. Then I pop off the three clamps (of course one is behind the unit which is real fun to get to) Then it should come out without too much trouble. You shouldn't have to disconnect the other side or take the wheel off. I turn the wheels hard left before starting and that helps. You have to work around the air deflection shield but it has enough give to it to allow slipping off the air box top.

Mike

What do you mean "bypass" it? which wire are you bypassing and what are you doing? Supplying power to a lead for the pump? A quick check of the schematic I would look at #14 to see if that is reading properly (12 ohms) I would also clean the connection to the CDI box, it feeds a signal out to the pump and it may not be getting that signal. Also check #13, maybe the fuel level sensor isn't working.

Mike

You can download for free the service manual from this link.

"K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts"

The procedure to check and adjust the TPS is in there.

You have a broken wire somewhere in the front harness to the pod. Once you repair it, wrap the harness in spiral wrap like I did and it will save the harness from future problems.

Mike

once again thank you guys for helping me.

ok so this is what i have done so far before i open up the whole bike apart.

took power from main fuse and provided it to the red wire on the ING. then took power from the light fuse and provided it to the grey wire on the ING. then took power from the red/black wire from the ING

and provided it to the fuel rely and the bike works .light come on when needed. bike runs and can turn off and run. the only thing is that the dash flickers on and off. please guys tell me if the rout i took is ok or not. or is there any other way of connecting the wires like that.

what i think is that it is the 3 ING wires that were broken somewhere.

sorry i have never worked on a bike before.

It sounds like a broken wire from the fuse block to the front harness. 2007 models are known for wiring harness problems. I know, I have repaired both the rear and front harness already. Look at this post

http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/arctic-cat-atv-forum/10091-extract-print-arctic-cat-atv-schematics.html

This will help if you print out the schematic on several pages so it can be seen better. I would start following with the meter to see if the ignition switch has power to it from the fuse block. The wires that snake up to the handlebars are notorious for breaks.

The first picture is the schematic printed on 6 sheets of paper and taped together. This larger print makes it so much better to see the wires and notes. The second is what I had to deal with a few months ago. I blew out about 12 wires in my front harness.

Mike

I can't see why that remote would not work for you. I seriously doubt the wiring is "different" just because its rebranded for Arctic Cat.

This listing shows it is compatible.

High Lifter Products - WARN Wireless Control/Remote Upgrade Kit

I attached a diagram of the winch, so it will help with tracing the wires out.

I also found a PDF of installing the wireless control, Looks real easy and should work with the Arctic Cat version. MAYBE the wire colors differ then the diagram, but I doubt it.

I see no reason why it won't work, all it does is the same as the rocker switch, only remotely.

Mike

Warn Winch diagram.pdf

Warn Wireless control installation.pdf

First I would verify that power is reaching the starter, take a screwdriver and touch both larger terminals of the starter solenoid being very careful not to let it touch any metal on the quad. This will bypass it. If you still get nothing then you need a meter to verify that you have 12 volts on one side of the solenoid, then when you press the starter button, it should show on the other side. If that checks out, then there could be a broken wire between that and the starter itself. I would also verify the ground side of the starter is also securely connected as well. If you do notice a drop in voltage (say under 10 volts) when you press the starter button, that means the battery is too weak to turn it over. You can use a vehicle to jump start the quad but ABSOLUTELY do not have the vehicle running when you do this. The output from a vehicle's alternator will fry the battery in the quad.

If you show no voltage at the solenoid at all, then you need to check the thicker cable from it back to the battery.

Mike

Also known as "CRS" Can't remember sh!t

This is what some of our local trails look like. :sifonec:

And, yes, we do go through bearings and bushings.

Mike

Looks like some nice trails.

Mike