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mikeexplorer

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Everything posted by mikeexplorer

  1. mikeexplorer
    Never heard of that before, but I imagine soot has antibacterial properties.
  2. mikeexplorer
    Potential rub spots are where there are cross members in the frame. They tend to have sharp points from welding.
  3. mikeexplorer
    You can find the schematic of your machine with this link. It is the 4th file (listed as large file) https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Arctic-Cat-ATV-Repair-and-Service-Manuals/arctic_cat_2000_thru_2009_atv_and_snowmobileSnow_Wiring_Diagrams__NOTE_LARGE_FILE_459mb.pdf There is no schematic of the ECU itself, it is a sealed unit and not serviceable. Since you tried a donor ECU and have different results that makes me suspect your ECU. You probably have a second problem and I would suspect a problem in the wiring harness. Arctic Cats of that era were known for the wires to rub and break. You may need to remove the plastics and inspect the harness from the ECU leading out to the sensors.
  4. mikeexplorer
    I just paid $125 for 3 machines, full coverage. I also have not had any incidents and I have been with the same company for years so that explains the rate.
  5. mikeexplorer
    First, the battery is probably bad which is why the starter solenoid was buzzing. Charge it and take it to a auto parts store for a load test (usually free to do) Next I would check the negative cable from the battery to where it is attached to the frame, you probably have a bad ground point. Corrosion probably. Next check the fuses, may have some corrosion there. Beyond that you will need a meter and schematic, but since you indicated not being good with electrical problems, not sure if that will help.
  6. mikeexplorer
    I found the service manual for your machine https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Arctic-Cat-ATV-Repair-and-Service-Manuals/arctic_cat_2006_dvx_400_service__manual.pdf I don't know why there would be a sensor there. You should have a cable type throttle attached to the carb. I don't see that listed on either schematic so that is confusing. Try this link for the schematics https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Arctic-Cat-ATV-Repair-and-Service-Manuals/arctic_cat_2000_thru_2009_atv_and_snowmobileSnow_Wiring_Diagrams__NOTE_LARGE_FILE_459mb.pdf Mike
  7. mikeexplorer
    I did not see the "prime" position on the valve originally. I owned two Arctic cats that has a fuel valve, but did not have a "prime" position. They were strictly gravity fed systems. What your saying makes sense. If the valve is leaking by, it could very well suck fuel through the vacuum line and flood the carb. Another thing to consider since it is a 2004 model to check the fuel lines. Over time the lines tend to go bad and older models were not made to use E10 fuel. I had a 2007 machine that the vent for the tank collapsed because it got soft. I ended up replacing all the fuel lines and the vacuum line. (The machine had its gas tank in the back so it used a diaphragm pulse pump using the vacuum line) Mike
  8. mikeexplorer
    I have had models of Arctic Cats that used that type of fuel valve. They were gravity fed fuel systems. I have had this valve go bad and had to replace it. Flooding the carb and intake is usually the float in the carb not working properly.
  9. mikeexplorer
    Based on that, the 2004 schematic should be the one, meaning no changes were made in 2006. Peel back a bit more of the wire covering, zooming in to your picture, it appears both the blue and brown wires are marked with a second color. Looks like to me brown/green and the blue wire has a second color, but can't make it out. I normally work on utility Arctic Cats, I never owned a DVX. Usually have no problems finding the right schematic which will tell you what that connector does.
  10. mikeexplorer
    The brown is part of the wire marking. I still can't match your machine. You may have to verify the full VIN. They did make a DVX 400 in 2004, but in 2006 they only had the DVX 250. Attached are the schematics for the 2004 DVX 400 and the 2006 DVX 250. There is no match for that connector. It does look original (nobody hacked it)
  11. mikeexplorer
    Are you sure of your machine? Looking at schematics, there is no listing for a 2006 400 DVX Yellow must be striped with something, pure yellow wires come from the stator.
  12. mikeexplorer
    A stem kit is small and not expensive. I have had a case where a stem was leaking and replaced it on the trail. I also carry a bottle of slime but will only use it as a last resort. The tire plug kit should also include rubber cement. Helps them to seal better.
  13. mikeexplorer
    Some quads use a wet clutch so you have to make sure is is wet clutch safe if yours is that type.
  14. mikeexplorer
    This is true for PA, another thing, it has to be on it's own pump for it to be true non-ethanol.
  15. mikeexplorer
    We are not as dependent on Iran for oil like in the past. Sure it will bump up a bit, but I don't think it will skyrocket.
  16. mikeexplorer
    Non-ethanol fuel is 90 or 91 octane.
  17. mikeexplorer
    It depends on the solution used, but yes, it can clean other materials then metal. That is a common use because the high frequency will allow the solution to get into the small areas to clean them
  18. mikeexplorer
    Ultrasonic cleaners can be useful for a lot of things.
  19. mikeexplorer
    Ive been to Red Rock, cool place to visit. Really nice vistas.
  20. mikeexplorer
    German made equipment? Those motors would still have brushes. I used to work at a plastics company and the extruders used a DC motor. But the drives were 60 Hz @ 480 volts., 3 phase.
  21. mikeexplorer
    The leakage would be coming from the windings, not the commutator. Since you already cleaned it, it means the insulation is breaking down.
  22. mikeexplorer
    Looks good to me, now that you flushed it. Try the meter test again from the shaft to any of the commutator points. Set meter to 100K ohms. See if that 10K reading goes away. Possible some brush dust got into the windings and caused the reading. Ideally it should read infinite to 10 megaohms.
  23. mikeexplorer
    It won't be the housing. Take the commutator and measure resistance from the shaft to any of the contacts, That is where your resistance will be.,
  24. mikeexplorer
    She mentioned she reads about 10K ohms from the commutator to the frame. Normally this should be infinite to high megaohm. If this was an AC motor it would be a shock hazard. One possibility is as the motor is put under load, the leak current gets higher bypassing some of the windings. I am betting at one or more times this starter was overheated and the insulation has broken down. The 10K reading would be enough for me to junk it.
  25. mikeexplorer
    That could be the case, That would cause resistance under load. She would have to see if the spring is weak.

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