mikeexplorer

Are you sure of your machine? Looking at schematics, there is no listing for a 2006 400 DVX Yellow must be striped with something, pure yellow wires come from the stator.

A stem kit is small and not expensive. I have had a case where a stem was leaking and replaced it on the trail. I also carry a bottle of slime but will only use it as a last resort. The tire plug kit should also include rubber cement. Helps them to seal better.

Some quads use a wet clutch so you have to make sure is is wet clutch safe if yours is that type.

This is true for PA, another thing, it has to be on it's own pump for it to be true non-ethanol.

We are not as dependent on Iran for oil like in the past. Sure it will bump up a bit, but I don't think it will skyrocket.

Non-ethanol fuel is 90 or 91 octane.

It depends on the solution used, but yes, it can clean other materials then metal. That is a common use because the high frequency will allow the solution to get into the small areas to clean them

Ultrasonic cleaners can be useful for a lot of things.

Ive been to Red Rock, cool place to visit. Really nice vistas.

German made equipment? Those motors would still have brushes. I used to work at a plastics company and the extruders used a DC motor. But the drives were 60 Hz @ 480 volts., 3 phase.

The leakage would be coming from the windings, not the commutator. Since you already cleaned it, it means the insulation is breaking down.

Looks good to me, now that you flushed it. Try the meter test again from the shaft to any of the commutator points. Set meter to 100K ohms. See if that 10K reading goes away. Possible some brush dust got into the windings and caused the reading. Ideally it should read infinite to 10 megaohms.

It won't be the housing. Take the commutator and measure resistance from the shaft to any of the contacts, That is where your resistance will be.,

She mentioned she reads about 10K ohms from the commutator to the frame. Normally this should be infinite to high megaohm. If this was an AC motor it would be a shock hazard. One possibility is as the motor is put under load, the leak current gets higher bypassing some of the windings. I am betting at one or more times this starter was overheated and the insulation has broken down. The 10K reading would be enough for me to junk it.

That could be the case, That would cause resistance under load. She would have to see if the spring is weak.

Magnets are probably glued in, I would not try to remove them, probably would crack.

Hey it worked

What does this starter go to? (type of machine) Depending on the battery size you probably wouldn't see a large drop in voltage. I do see in your picture that the brushes do have a spring mechanism in the arm. So they would be contacting properly. There is a high resistance somewhere. The only thing I can think of is to assemble the motor, attach the meter to the leads with clamps if possible (if not strip a section of wire and wrap it around the meter leads so you don't have to hold it. ) Set meter to low ohm reading. Rotate the shaft SLOWLY I mean one full rotation should take you 30-60 seconds. see if you get jumps in ohm readings. It will jump around a bit but when done slowly, you will not get an inductive EMF backlash voltage reading. (from the magnets) It is possible the brushes are not maintaining contact as it rotates. I would feel the shaft with the commutator and feel for any bumps, that would deflect the brush for a moment and lose contact. Another test is with the starter assembled, connect one lead to either connection, the other to the frame, set meter to 100k range and slowly rotate the shaft. You were getting a static reading of about 10K which isn't good. If it changes a lot that could mean the power is bypassing the windings and the armature is no good. What is the highest DC amp range your meter can do? I would re-check the windings. Put a meter lead on one commutator point, the other lead to the one next to it. do this all around the armature. Ohm readings should be the same. At 0.1 ohms, that starter could pull 120 amps from the battery under full load.

Best way to clean commutator is with very fine sandpaper, or a fiberglass brush. I guess your meter's lowest OHM setting is 0.1 ohms. Not a big deal in this case. You have no open windings, which is good. What is NOT good is the frame reading. Segment to frame should read in the megaohms. The armature is ground faulted. Now this is only a 12 volt motor so there is no shock hazard. This most likely happened if the motor was run hard and the windings overheated, or it got wet inside several times. So have you looked at the permanent magnets in the case? Is any of them cracked? Loose? If the motor was subjected to overheating that will decrease the Gauss factor of the magnets (make them weaker) You say it spins well unloaded, but does not loaded, does this mean when it is installed or did you try to put a load on the shaft (grab it GENTLY) Did you do this test with the existing wiring of whatever this came out of? Do you have a battery jump box to try? (connect it to the motor and see if it runs under load) You could be losing current in the wiring.

You would unlikely see the broken wire. What you need to do is take your meter and remove the armature. test ohm reading from one copper point to another and go around the whole thing. The ohm reading should be consistent from one to the next one. The brush holders are weird, I don't see any springs that would hold the brush against the commutator. If it is an older starter, the brushes could be worn down and the rebuild kit would be the way to go.

Came with the quad so it has been used for things other then plowing Those springs work, many times I could have been thrown if it wasn't for them I have always had good luck with WARN winches. I do take them apart and service them every few years.

My plow has two large springs so if it hits something solid, it will fold down and skip over the bump.

12 years old, it was due No it has a metal bottom edge that can be replaced I know what you are talking about but it wouldn't be practical. Most winters the plow doesn't get used much. This year looks to be an exception. The winch is older so the cable wasn't 100% to begin with. For now I am going to spool out a foot or two and cut it, then re-attach with cable clamps. In the spring I am going to service the winch fully and will take the cable off. If it looks crappy overall, I will just replace it.

No work today and the ski area was delayed opening so I did the final round of plowing before heading out. Guess I worked the plow a bit hard, just as I was finishing ... SNAP! broke the winch cable.

Scranton area got about 12 inches, More north (where I ski) got about 16 inches. My plow I bought back in 2008 and still works.