mikeexplorer

We usually drive 2.5 to 3 hours, but the local riding in my area sucks. We kinda have no choice.

I have used my quad for plowing for years, When pushing snow I always use low range.

It depends on the machine. Some require special tools.

There are tool holders for ATV racks that look like a "Y" that will hold the tools in place without scratching the rack.

Rotopax makes a 1 gallon version. I have one. They are pricey but they are leak proof and don't balloon up like a normal gas can would. With riding and warmth, it will shake the gas up pretty good. I bought the 1 gallon thinking that is all I could fit on her quad, but I managed to get a 2 gallon to fit.

Looks good and secure.

You do not want to use romex or any solid wire in a vehicle. The flexing and vibration will eventually break the wire as it is not designed to be flexed. THHN is industrial wire. If it is solid wire, don't use it for a vehicle or ATV, same reason. Stranded version would be ok but it is also not rated for it. (it won't be flexing that much in a vehicle) MTW wire would be the best bet, but for what your doing if the THHN is stranded, go with it. A lot of charts show voltage drop over length but that is for AC voltage. DC voltage has a higher drop rate over distance. My general rule is I bump up one gauge for what is needed.

The only issue with these newer units is the voltage cutoff. The unit will shut down if it senses the battery voltage getting low. The problem is if you use the rear accessory port on most vehicles, the voltage drop from the longer run will trip out the fridge before the battery really is low. The wire gauge for the rear accessory port is too small. While the vehicle is running it is not an issue since the charger puts out 14.4 volts. It is when its not running. I had this issue camping so I bumped up the wire gauge to solve the problem. Then changing to a lithium battery really took care of it

That is probably one of those pielter coolers, I had an Igloo one for years. If you reversed the power cord it became a warmer. They are only capable of dropping like 30 degrees below ambient temperature. Compared to the newer units we have been discussing, it is also a power hog. Typically draws 5 amps continuous. These newer compressor models are much more efficient and you can set the temperature. I have several Vevor diesel heaters and so far they have worked well.

A few pictures from last weekend. Snow Shoe Rails To Trails. Some pictures are from a state trail system called "Bloody Skillet" some of the trails are in old mining areas which is why some pictures are barren.

Basically what I have by a different manufacturer. I have been using mine for 4 years now and it has worked great. Last year I bought a dual-zone version so I can keep a few ice packs frozen for warmer weather when we ride. The first unit was screwy (Fed-ex dropped the package when delivering it) so they sent me a second one and told me to keep the old one. Awhile later I took it apart and found a few wires had come loose or broke, so I fixed them, and volia! it works normally now. Cool!

One of the rare times someone took my picture skiing.

Arctic Cat sells gun cases that mount on the ATV. Perhaps they can be modified to fit a Honda.

Look into a 12 volt car refrigerator. I have one I use for camping to keep the beers cold. (sometimes food too) I can set it down to -15 degrees if I want to use it as a freezer. It's typical draw at 12 volts is 3 amps in eco mode, or 5 amps in max mode. It is a compressor type with soft starter. Works great and I can run a long weekend on battery power.

I don't think that would be a good idea, but I am not sure. My understanding of the brake lead is proportional to how much you step on the brakes proportional to the electric brake controller in the vehicle. It is calibrated by trailer weight so the trailer brakes operate proportional to the vehicle brakes. That lead is connected to the trailer brakes and activates them when the brakes are pressed in the vehicle. If that circuit is screwed with, it might flash on your dash "trailer disconnected" Plus you must have a battery connected to it on the trailer so in the event the trailer breaks free of the vehicle. the onboard battery activates the brakes and stops the trailer.

I do what I can, just slower now. I do still ski in the winter.

I meant the trailer harness is probably a 4 pin connection since it is only lights. You have the center light connected to the right turn wire. The center light can only be a marker light, not a brake light with a 4 pin connection. There is a way to do "B" but the center light will blink with either turn signal activated. It will glow bright with brake applied. It is a bit of a hack. If thats good for you, I will post the solution "A" cannot be done with 4 pin connection.

Agree you have to be careful, but I have used these with my camper trailer for all my connections and as long as I keep that in mind, I have not had any issues. I just keep this in mind when wiring Source side - Positive covered Load side - Positive exposed Charger - Positive exposed So for the solar controller it would be #3. I already have that connector on the battery box which I currently use for a charger when the trailer is sitting at home. (I used to use AGM battery) I probably don't have to tender the Lithium like I did. but I figure it doesn't hurt since it shuts off when charged. I also use that port when camping to connect to a 12 volt pump for our portable shower. The only thing I have to do is bump it up, currently fused to 7.5 amps so I may have to change it to a thicker wire and higher fuse for the controller. No big deal. I don;t need solar power much. The lithium battery would probably last all weekend without charging. My main draw is a 12 volt refrigerator which when running pulls 3.5 amps. (Gotta keep the beers cold) Other power draws are lights (LED so they are next to nothing), fans if needed, and USB chargers for the phone and anything else USB powered. I plan to use this panel if we are at a campground that prohibits generators.

Here riding options are more limited. These are two small state trails, one is 7.5 miles, the other 7.7 miles. They are about 5 miles apart from each other so we do them both in one day. They are nice, but small. They are called "Maple Run" and "Burnt Mills" managed by DCNR.

I am in the group photo on the right side, the fat old guy, from the video of the memorial ride. I generally don't take selfie pictures, nothing worth showing.

Trailer harness use the 4 pin connector? You have a short between green and brown wire

Oh that is perfect. Has the 2 pin connector that I have on the battery box. Yes the solar panel side is those connectors Cool, thanks for sharing the link

It is a SJCAM S10PRO model. Bought it off Ebay. I mounted it to the same mount that holds my GPS unit. I made a mount for the GPS for my older quad so I can use the same unit on my old quad. (I keep it as a spare machine and for snow plowing) I also mounted the camera to the GPS mount, but it was more shaky because of the pod. I will be filming some local trails today, and now that I have the anti0shake turned on, it should be better video.

The controller I have for it is bad, One of the buttons is broken so I cannot select the battery type 😕 Panel comes with wires that have two connectors on it, forget the name of them, then they gave me different adapters for different types of power stations. I have a 2 pin connector already at the battery box I use for the tender, I was just going to plug into that if I use the panel, but first I have to replace the controller. (out of warranty of course)