mikeexplorer

Best to get the marine grade heat shrink, offers better waterproofing of the splices. You can get spiral wrap there as well which can protect the wires from damage.

Go to countrycat.com and look up your machine to get the part numbers for the bumpers. They probably are not available anymore but you can use the part numbers to do a search to see if anyone is selling them used. I know there are several ebay sellers that sell used ATV parts.

Its handy to have the schematic with you on paper, but its too hard to read on one sheet of paper. this will help: The website that has the schematics located here. http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Arctic-Cat-ATV-Repair-and-Service-Manuals/ The file is large and includes a whole slew of schematics, the question is how to extract out the one you need and print it? The diagrams don't print well on a regular sheet of paper due to their size so here is a procedure to get the diagram you need and make a nice print. This will be with utilities you can get for free (the best kind After downloading the large PDF of the schematics, go to this website here... Tracker Software Products :: PDF-XChange Viewer, Free PDF Reader Download pdf-xchange (its free) Open the pdf file with this program. by clicking on the selections you can get to the exact schematic you need. Once its displayed do this: File -> Export -> Export to Image Select "Current page" , Image type "JPEG", choose your folder to drop the image, give it a name like "2006 400 auto" set page zoom to 100% and resolution to 300 or 400 dpi Then click export. You will now have a JPG of the page. Next step is to go to this website... posteriza.com - Home Download the program (free) What this will do is allow you to tke this large JPG and break it up onto several pages. I use 4 for the schematics. Its pretty easy to follow and I print them without a border. Print them out and use an old fashioned "cut & tape" and you will now have a nice large printout of your schematic.

Rubbed wires was a problem with the 2006-2007 models, I had a 2007 model. Wires still could be broken even if it looked like they did not rub through. Your going to have to use a multimeter and the schematic to verify the wires, I am betting you have broken wires if you have no power to the start button. Best bet is to solder them and use marine grade heat shrink tubing then where the harness has problem spots, wrap them with plastic spiral wrap for protection. I would add this wrap to any area of the harness that looks like it can rub on rough spots. I did this with my 2007 machine and never had an issue with the wires again. Mike

There are two known issues with that model year machine, one is the magnets coming loose on the flywheel and wire harness problems. (wires rubbing through) You can get a service manual and the schematic for free from this website: https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Arctic-Cat-ATV-Repair-and-Service-Manuals/ This should help you trace out the problem to figure out the electrical issue.

Hallstead Fire company ATV Poker Run, October 10th, 2021

yes, have to verify if the pin moves to engage the gears

Verify the pin is moving in and out when you toggle the actuator

Codes are stored in the pod. Next to the fuse block there is a diagnostic plug. You can use a jumper on that to have the pod display the stored codes.

The seat on my old quad got the point it was more duct tape then seat. The material can be found at a craft store and it wasn't hard to remove and replace it. At the time, I think it was only like $10 for enough material to do the seat.

Could you contact the seller and see if he has the original part still?

Agreed, sounds like a distraction

If you go to countrycat.com you can look up a parts diagram of your machine to get the part number for the carb, then use that part number for a search (ebay, etc) you should be able to find a good used one online. Mike

Happy New Year

I have seen people do this, even replace the battery with a bigger one, but you have to keep in mind the stator only puts out so much power and if you exceed it, even with a bigger battery, you will be drawing it down as you ride and eventually, your dead in the water. Mike

Keeping the clock in the dash going draws very little power, should not have drained the battery in a week. There could be something else drawing power that shouldn't be. If you have a meter, measure the current draw off the battery with the machine off. Then start pulling one fuse at a time to see what is drawing the current. I would have the battery tested (places do it for free) you could have a battery issue as well. I would also test the voltage at the battery with the quad off and with it running. If you put a larger car battery in, you realize the charging rate from your regulator would mean the battery would take a long time to charge up. Mike

Assuming your machine is a similar year as my old one (2007) Its not hard to remove the pod. Under the front instrument cluster you will see screws that have to be taken out. (They face the front of the machine) Next unscrew the ignition switch, it also hold the cluster in place. (Third picture shows that) This will allow you to flip the cluster over to reveal the two nuts that are holding the pod in place. Unplug the pod and take these two nuts out and then you can pull out the pod. Mike

Yes you can, you remove the one way bearing in the secondary clutch.

Annual ATV Poker Run. Information attached.

Good to hear

Rebuild, you can get a brush kit from rick's motorsports. I had to do this on my 2007 400, if I remember right, it was like $35? (this was a few years ago) https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMInYrsxfCr6wIVNxatBh23-AgLEAAYAyAAEgJYk_D_BwE

The service manual gives you the specs for what the voltage should be at the primary side of the coil, but you need a meter that can record peak voltage to see it. It must be in range since you are seeing spark. Make sure its a strong spark. Yes the starter may be spinning slower under load if the brushes are wearing out, but check connections and clean them since any corrosion will cause the same thing. Mike

I meant to measure the peak voltage the primary side of the coil is getting. On my 366 which would be similar it is around 375 volts. Starting to look like the CDI may be bad if your only seeing battery voltage

Now you need to look at the schematic. I attached it. The position sensor's output is routed into the CDI box, out of that it goes to the coil to produce the spark. The actual output from the sensor might not be the issue, it is a trigger signal to the CDI to produce an output voltage to the coil. If I remember right, its around 350 volts. (your service manual will tell you this) I was troubleshooting a 2010 366 two weeks ago for hard starting issues and remember testing the coil. You need to be able to first measure the position sensor's output when your cranking and when it finally starts, does the voltage change? Next, check the primary side of the coil, the procedure is in the manual as well, but you need a meter that can record the peak voltage since its not a constant output. You need to see if the output from the CDI is changing when your cranking to when it finally catches and starts. Although you said you have a new battery, I would have it load tested to verify, places like Autozone will do it for free. As a quick test, connect jumper cables from your quads battery to a vehicle battery BUT DO NOT START THE VEHICLE! Then try to start the quad. The increased cold crank amps will tell you if its the battery. On a side not, check battery connections and such for corrosion. Since its an older machine, going over the connections and cleaning them and adding some dielectric grease would be a good idea, voltage could be dipping down due to resistance caused by corrosion. EFI machines are finicky when it comes to voltage. You can get some electronic contact cleaner spray and dielectric grease at any auto parts store. Mike

When you replaced the coil, did you buy the whole unit (including the spark plug cap?) or just the coil? I would measure the resistance of the cap only. You mentioned a 20K reading which is high for the coil, but if your including the cap, that will throw the reading off. Your attachments were too small to read. Looks like your stator is outputting as it should. I would check the regulator. Once the machine is started, check the voltage to make sure it does not exceed 15 volts. High voltage will cause EFI machines to act weird. I have not known of issues with the stator and position sensors. One test you can do is when it does not want to start, pull the spark plug and verify you do indeed are getting spark. Another thing to check is your fuel pump, make sure you have enough PSI for the injector. Since your machine is older, I would suspect the fuel pump is not providing enough PSI for the injector to work. Mike