Quantcast
Jump to content


1999 Kawasaki Lakota, removing balljoints?


ninhalo5

Recommended Posts

Hi, I'm wondering does anyone know what size socket is needed to get the ball joints out of the A frame?

I've tried using a large adjustable wrench which just falls off of the 1/8" thick nut and the same went for a big pair of channel locks. I'm guessing you have to have a socket to turn it.

Also when I removed the bolt from the lower ball joint there was a groove in the center of the bolt, does this groove supposed to be there? to me it looks like it's been worn out or grinded perhaps, I know on some cars the balljoint bolt is supposed to have a egg shaped groove in them to help keep the balljoint from freely rotating.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can you please post the year of your machine so we can add it to the thread title? From what I can tell there is a snap ring that holds the ball joint into the a-arms. I have seen grooves in the threaded part of the ball joint before, I don't know if that is how it is supposed to be on your machine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it's a 99 lakota, to my understanding nothing changed on any of the years, hopefully someone knows about removing these things :)

yes, each balljoint has a snap ring on the flat side that goes through the A frame, on the opposite side of the A frame is a nut which is somewhere around 1-1/2" although it should be metric. The illustration in the clymer manual shows threads going around the balljoint and threads in the A frame but does not explain how to get the joints out. The nut is extremely thin and impossible to get any wrench on it, it seems. I'm waiting on my new joint to come in the post, hopefully I'll be able to match a socket to it. I'll prob need a torch and a jackhammer as well lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

True, they probably did not changeover the years, we just like to have the year make and model in all our thread tiltles. I understand your problem now, you could try and measure it, but it may be easier to take the new one with you to match it up to a socket. 1 1/2" is roughly 38mm. Heating the a-arm up a little bit might help loosen the bolt up, so a torch may actually be usefull. I would leave the jackhammer as a last resort though, only use that if it really pisses you off and needs to be taught a lesson. Good luck.

Edited by DirtDemon
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By HSTAR
      Hey I have a 1997 big bear 350 4x4
      I replaced the shifter shaft and the shift arm linkage and the rod when I installed them all I was unaware that you had to line the dot on the shifter shaft with the gap on the linkage arm gap put it all back  together and rode it I can't get it to shift in the right gears  I can move the shift cam by hand and goes in different gears but with the shifter shaft in it riding I can't put it in R or N 
      Anyone know how to line up the shifter shaft and the shift cam s
       
    • By John Sinclair
      I WANTED TO UPGRADE THE CARBURATOR ON MY 1992 BIG BEAR 350, SO I ORDERED A NEW CARB FROM EBAY.  ACCORDING TO THE WRITE-UP IT WAS A GOOD FIT FOR BIG BEARS FROM 1988 TO 1996.  WHEN I REMOVED MY ORIGINAL CARB I NOTICED THAT IT WAS DIFFERENT FROM THE NEW CARB MY CARB HAD TWO THROTTLE  CABLES THE NEW CARB ONLY HAD ONE CABLE.  HOW CAN I MAKE THIS CARB WORK ON MY TWO CABLE THROTTLE?  
    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By Charlesbrown
      I’m looking for a top end kit for a Yamaha. I would like to see how well the engine runs before spending $6-$7 hundred on oem. Niche has complete kits from $1-$2 hundred.  Anyone have experience with Niche or similar Chinese companies? 
    • By bco20
      does anyone have an owners manual or repair manual i could download ?i got a 2018 king quad 5oo eps special edition can not find either anywhere thanks
×
×
  • Create New...