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About ninhalo5

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  • Birthday 12/13/1973
  1. Hi guy's I have a question for ya. I'll hopefully be getting a new quad soon and I've settled on getting a Can-Am more than likely a Renegade though I'll check out the comfort/performance of the Outlander as well. What I'm wondering is for those that ride theirs hard, how is the reliability and what if any parts have you found wears out quickly. How good are the drive belts, are they strong or to they tend to burn up/stretch? I'm planning on getting a snorkel system installed; where I live is on the side of a mountain so I'll be doing trails and hill climbs, creek runs and I just built a mud pit, on the trail we have a couple mini jumps on the 400TRX it gets about 3 ft off the ground and on the 300 Lakota it'll get maybe a foot, so I imagine the renegade will get somewhere in between the 2. Most of the hard riding I'll be doing is in the mud and creek. What's your thoughts on the parts/reliability? Thanks
  2. Thanks that makes perfect sense. I let him know about it and I guess we will check it out the next time he takes the king out for a swim lol
  3. Hi all, A friend of mine that I ride with has a 2008 king quad I believe it's a 450 and he has this issue when riding for awhile say 15-30 minutes through water or real soupy mud that the transmission starts to slip horribly in 1st and in 4th. If he lets it sit for an hour after it starts slipping it'll run fine again and stay that way until he goes back in the water. Anyone have any idea what might be causing this? my guess would be water is getting into the drive train somewhere causing it to slip and once the water dries out it's fine. though that confuses me because if water was getting into the transmission somehow there would be water in the oil. Could there possibly be water in the differential making it sluggish? the differential has these strange flimsy rubber bellows hooked to a little pipe on the top center of each one and I have no idea what they are for, it could be possible one of them is sucking water. My guess is as good as anyone's. Thanks
  4. Thanks guys on your opinions, I am liking the Can-am, been watching youtube and they do look sweet whereas the Grizzly looks like it's pretty husky though Yamaha has a good name I have a lot of tight areas to ride in. I'll have to go test ride them to make a final decision, though I really love the idea of a sport 4x4 best of both worlds. The Can-am dealer is about 20 miles from me which is also the same dealer that I get some of my Kawi parts from Where the Yamaha shop is about 10 miles from me I think it would make more sense to stick to one shop
  5. Come to think of it, all my musical instruments are all Yamaha and they've never let me down, I could get a ride to match the tunes lol. I've not heard much about the can-am's other than seeing pictures of them, are they a reliable machine?
  6. Hi all, I'm not looking to start a forum war here Anywho, I'd like some input from you guys on the various types of ATV's and which would you think would be the best quad for me and where I live/ride. First off, I live on the side of a mountain so all of my riding is hill climbs, creek cross and mud. Now the mountain I live on has a lot of shale and other types of rocks, the ground is pretty soft from a lot of dead root mass. With all the loose rock I do tend to use my brakes more than the average Joe coming back down the mountain. I have a Kawasaki Lakota and it eats breaks like their slices of pizza. Speaking of which I was looking at a kawi brute force 660 and that model has a sealed oil break, does anyone have any experience with that type of break? Secondly, all my friends that I ride with have 400's or better so I'll need a quad that will keep up with them are there any 4x4's that are pretty fast off the line or are they all pretty sluggish? Third, I like riding my roomates TRX. It's a great bike , super easy to pull wheelies and does pretty good at jumps she also does great on the terrain up here, she'll go just about anywhere that my friends KingQuad will go except for the real heavy muck. I'm really leaning on getting a 4x4 because it would just be more beneficial. I have a 1/4 mile dirt driveway and a 4x4 would be great when it snows to plow that white mess out, not to mention scraping the road when it gets washed out. I would really like to be able to play like I can on the TRX, I seen some videos on youtube where they were riding wheelies on their 4x4's sitting down right from the start but I cant remember which ones can do it might have been a Grizzly. And how about jumping on a 4x4? Can that be done safely without breaking the suspension up, or the driveshaft? I do know the one brand I really do not want to buy is a Polaris, several dealers in my area agree that Polaris is a huge money pit and spends more time in the shop than any other bike, I have enough of that with the Lakota I'm also a little hesitant on buying Suzuki, I've had several Motorcycles and dirt bikes in the past by Suzuki and had nothing but issues. even my friends newish kingquad acts like it don't want to start 1/2 the time, take 15+ cranks to start it when cold and stalls out often been like that right from the dealer. Another feature I would love to have is a snorkel which comes stock on Arctic Cats, are there any other brands that do that? I like the looks of the Cat but they look like their plastics are not very sturdy, with banging into trees around here I would like something pretty stable. Anyone have any thoughts on what would be a good purchase for me and why? Thank you Jeff
  7. I didn't actually go that deep into it, don't you have to remove the top half of the engine to get to the forks and main drum? I just pretty much just removed the shifter and the 2 clutch hubs just to check them out. I did discover that the shoes on the primary clutch have some cancer starting. I'd like to replace them but those suckers are almost $300 just under the crankcase that was the only thing I found that looked 1/2 bad Thanks
  8. Hopefully, I'm waiting for the crankcase gasket to come in so I can put it all back together. I can tell that the shift mechanism is still binding somewhere, at least I got it back to where it will shift again. I can't find the culprit, hope it'll stay ok until the fall I plan on stripping down the entire engine then. Where I ride is all shale, dirt and large rocks; mountain terrain so I hardly ever get past 4th gear. I'm mainly in 2nd and 3rd
  9. Thank you, yes a friend with a breaker bar on one side and me with a torque wrench on the other make a good team tightening her back up
  10. Hi, I'm having a serious issue with my 99 lakota. Earlier today I went to go for a ride and when I put it in gear it stalled out in gear for whatever reason, now it will not go back into neutral, when trying to get it out of gear a friend and myself pushed the quad back and fourth and I managed to get the gears to shift all the up to 5th but going back down it shifted really soft into 2nd and will not get to 1st or neutral. So I decided to tear apart the engine, I'm reading the Clymers manual to check for things that may be wrong, I'm thinking possibly the shifter and the star gear that shifts the gears might not be connecting correctly. to even look at that I have to remove both the primary and secondary clutches. The Clymers manual tells me to remove the primary by first removing the recoil starter and hold the rotor bolt to unscrew the clutch bolt. When I tried that the rotor bolt broke loose, so I decided to try to hold the rotor still and that is spinning. So now both of those ideas/methods have failed and I'm plum out of ideas on how to get that nut loose, then I'll have the same issue with the nut on the secondary clutch. According to Clymers the clutch nut is torqued to 107 ftlbs the only other thing I can think of is jamming the sprockets but thats not an option cause they will more than likely break a tooth or more. Anyone have any ideas on what I can try to do? The way it's looking now the bike is done Thanks
  11. OK, now I was told when changing the oil because of the pump you have to fill it and drive it then add more to it to circulate the oil get it up in the cooler and engine etc. and the same goes for draining it. drain it out then run it and drain it out again. is this the correct method? I did try that was hesitant of course but after the oil stopped draining out I fired up the engine then after I shut it down I got close too another quart out of it. I think all the different readings has to be because of the pump. 1 time I read it the oil cooler might be full and the tank close to empty, the next time I read it the cooler or enginre might be empty and the tank will be full. does this make sense? I would believe that when the quad is shut off all the oil should drain back into the tank, but being the tank is separate and there is no gravity flow from the engine to the tank has me wondering. thanks
  12. yes, I do have the motor off. the problem is every time I check the oil it has a different reading. even directly after changing the oil. last time I changed the oil it did the opposite said full then said empty then was overfull then normal, then back to empty then full, it's really aggravating not knowing how much oil is actually in there. is this normal on these machines or is mine having some sort of an issue where the oil is staying in the engine and not flowing back into the tank? Thanks
  13. Hi, I'm curious how in the heck do you properly check the oil level in a trx 400 ex? Every time I pull out the dipstick it gives different readings. When I first go for a ride to warm it up I check the oil level and it only has a drop on the stick, the second it reads over full, the third its in the center of the stick. I know the difference is probably due to the oil pump pushing oil into the engine at different intervals. With it doing this I have no idea if I need to add some oil or not. Thanks
  14. at least I can get a full A arm replacement on Ebay for $60 if I have to really give it some learnin
  15. it's a 99 lakota, to my understanding nothing changed on any of the years, hopefully someone knows about removing these things yes, each balljoint has a snap ring on the flat side that goes through the A frame, on the opposite side of the A frame is a nut which is somewhere around 1-1/2" although it should be metric. The illustration in the clymer manual shows threads going around the balljoint and threads in the A frame but does not explain how to get the joints out. The nut is extremely thin and impossible to get any wrench on it, it seems. I'm waiting on my new joint to come in the post, hopefully I'll be able to match a socket to it. I'll prob need a torch and a jackhammer as well lol

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