Quantcast
Jump to content


Trouble aligning the CVT belt on 2000 Polaris Sportsman 500 4x4


MadMan

Recommended Posts

Hello ATVers,

I need help aligning the belt on my Polaris Sportsman CVT. I bought this bike used and noticed a little smoke coming out of CVT exhaust under heavy throttle (smelt like burnt rubber). The previous owner claimed he installed a new belt, but when I opened up cvt cover I noticed belt was out of alignment causing the edge of one side of belt to fray. A small chunk of the belt was missing in one area. I removed one of the washers from behind the secondary pulley to move belt back to alignment with primary pulley. The washer acts like a shim and removing it moved the secondary pulley back about 1/8" which is what it needed. I don't like moving the pulley so close to the back of the plastic cvt case but my alternative (per the service manual) is to loosen the motor mounts and move the motor slightly to change position of the primary pulley and then re-tighten the mounts. Please correct me if this info is wrong. I haven't done this step, but I will do so if someone with more CVT experience could chime in. My son and I went for a ride and he typically drives in HIGH range which I'm told is bad for slow trail riding or driving thru mud. Primarily what we drive on are slow forest trails and very muddy sections. Apparently the combination of him being in HIGH range and the belt already frayed caused it to break. So I ordered an EPI sever duty cvt belt and a clutch kit since this bike's cvt has never been serviced. I plan on installing bigger tires for mud, so I ordered a kit designed for this type of riding. Any advice on how to adjust belt tension and alignment would greatly be appreciated. I don't wanna blow another belt. Standard OEM belt is $70 and this severe duty belt is $100!! They are not cheap.

00 Pol SM 500 4x4 - Drive Clutch.gif

00 Pol SM 500 4x4 - Driven Clutch.jpg

57d7734862a1f_00PolSM5004x4-DriveClutch.gif.a5f93db64408484ff350042e57cc8830.gif

57d773486591b_00PolSM5004x4-DrivenClutch.jpg.137a2fc9ce8760f276666eab1da49862.jpg

Edited by MadMan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By BenJammin
      I did a compression test on my 2005 Bombardier Traxter 650 CVT and it's 75 PSI.  service manual only talks about leak down test.  No specification for engine compression the manual.  What does 75 PSI tell me?  Thank in advance.
       
      A little history of this machine.  640 miles.  Picked it up about 2 years ago, not running. Probably the computer.  Tested all circuits and confirm it was the computer.  Long story short, I watched a Youtube video and fixed the computer. ATV now started and runs.  BUT, it tops out 20 MPH.  I cleaned the carb 3 times also using a Mikuni carb kit after the second time.  Slide in carb is going up and down.  Only adjustment for fuel is at 1.5 turns out.  NGK Sparkplug had soot on main part but brown on the electrode.  Champion sparkplug is brown.  I check CVT clutches and they both appear to engage like they suppose to.  Checked valve clearance it's 0.00, I can't get any feeler gauges in-between.  I check timing chain I believe it's in the correct position and hasn't skipped.  I removed muffler plug and drilled into muffler to try and make sure it wasn't plugged.
    • By rgeiser
      View File 2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 service manual
      2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 service manual
      Submitter rgeiser Submitted 04/18/2024 Category Polaris UTV  
    • By hardcastle
      My friends KQ 300 starts fine and runs, as soon as you put it in gear and try to accelerate its bucks and farts like crazy, not moving... I cleaned carb and it worked good for 1 day... now back to same problem.... could it be such as a bent valve????
    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By Gwbarm
      I have been exploring all the options available, so many, its hard to choose. I have kind of narrowed it down to the Honda Pilot, Subaru Outback, and Kind of looking at the Outlander, although its a little small,  the new one is nice looking. Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations or gripes with any of these rides. I have driven Jeeps for the past 25  years and they have been great, but their price point has gotten to high. Expieriences good or bad would be helpful. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...