Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

mmgood

1986 Kawasaki Bayou 300 Synthetic Engine Oil

Recommended Posts

Hey people

Question for all, just picked a 1986 bayou 300 thinking of going synthetic any thoughts ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Always! I run synthetic in everything I own. Even my old antique engines. It wont fix anything but it wont hurt anything for sure.

Brad_cad

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The only differences between syn/conventional is the viscosity break down.  Bottom line syntheyic will hold up Better, longer etc. Can’t hurt. Only thing I can recommend is once you put it in stick with it until the end ! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


The only thing I've found is that synthetics will reveal any oil leaks, even those that may not be visible with conventional oil.  I think it is due to the smaller molecular structure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with carguydave, I'm using 20wx50w Valvoline full synthetic in my 2001 350 4x4 Yamaha Wolverine. I had no oil leaks the first 3 months I owned the ATV, (acquired the unit in 2016), before I changed to full synthetic, now my cylinder head on the left side has a film of oil from top to bottom. ATV runs great sounds great, and I'm still glad I have full synthetic in my machine. But depending on how old your machine is, it may develop some unsightly leaks.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By GlenI
      Just picked this up.  Excited to start working on it.  Has push start and a few other things not sure about. Disconnected gas lines etc.  Is there a repair manual available?
    • By JacobSlabach
      Hey I have a 97 bayou 300 2x4 (klf300b) that i bought for 1000 last June and sunk another 1000 into it already.  When i went to look at it, the seller had warmed it up before hand (he was riding it when I got there).  it ran good so i bought it and took it home that evening... next morning it wouldn't hardly start.  I discovered the carb was clogged, there was chunks of rust in the fuel valve, the choke lever was missing and other things.  I have since cleaned the carb and replaced the fuel valve and gas lines and cleaned out the gas tank and cap.  
      Enough background on it, the problem is this:  It floods if i push it past half throttle in 4th and 5th gear even going downhill and shifting correctly.  It also has to idle and warm up when you first start it which is really annoying now that its cold...  It also smokes blue smoke for about 15 seconds when started cold-  does not smoke at all once warm but the exhaust still smells like burnt metal.  A friend told me that it didn't have enough compression.  I also found out that the valves are a common cause for low compression on Kawasakis..  I have never adjusted valves before-  the most I've ever got into a engine was a head gasket on a riding mower so I'm new to this.  My goal is to get this bike running and starting cold like a top-  should i tear down and rebuild the top end?  What should i try first?  I tore the carb apart and rebuilt it and fiddled with the air screw and nothing changed.  I also ordered a compression test kit that should be coming in soon.

      Ive also considered just selling it for like $500 and taking the hit-  Id rather not sink too much more into this machine..  lol
    • By mywifeknowseverythin
      I keep some people's phone numbers in my phone just so I know not to answer when they call.
    • By pokerl0w
      this bike! did this guy sucker me or what.. ok, looks like this means something is bent that I do not see or one rod is longer vs the other?
      how long do you think this would last before it ripped into the tire? this is the right side, left side tire clears no problem

       
       
      I can not find them on www.kawasakipartshouse.com
       
    • By 220Bayou
      Hi everyone,  I'm about to get my first ATV, 02 bayou 220.
      Neighbor said I could have it if I fix it, Carburetor problems, and needs a new ignition switch. last ran 2 years ago, said he changed the oil in it twice a year and never ride it hard.
      Hope I got me a good ride.
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By pokerl0w
      Bought this 2 weeks ago.. Starts up fine, seems to run fine. But I am clueless. I tried to pull something small in high gear mode, unknowingly <- n00b
      There' s a small oil leak from the back/bottom end. maybe 1-2 tablespoons/day after riding it some, otherwise maybe 1tsp/day. I was trying to start it at least every other day (not garaged, gets below freezing)
       
      The main issue (aside from full rebuild *see below) is I am seeing smoke from the top of the engine and there is that oil leak in the back. I am hearing something as well, not quite sure what, hope someone else with trained ears can tell me it's just the sweet-uniq'saki
      If I can get through the winter plowing around, then I can start on my rebuild. Looking to use OEM where possible, aftermarket when makes most sense - I do not care about speed, I like torque .. hauling and crawling.
       
      I am also sharing pictures of the oil. And yes, there is some metal in that oil.. which is just magic fairy dust from tinker fairies say my girls, and I can keep beating without issue 😬
      Metaloil:

      (image taken with flash:)
       
      Here's the smoke:
      20190113_105012
      Here's engine (left) and back/muffler:
      20190113_104854.mp4
       
      TLDR;
      sad disclaimer: bought this beast from a local seller. this is my first and after having it 2-weeks, riding maybe 1 hour... I got took. I'll tell ya'll how much I paid after we chat about'er for a bit so I do not get crushed.  I am not a mech but I have wrenched many'o'things from sparks, water pumps, swapping clutches .. but not bikes or small engines all v6+ just saying I know something, but lots more of nothing!  I do like the bayou series and (think?) need 4x4 for the snow and trials here in the Sierras. I want to swap the frame in the spring, as this one is not only bent but has some suspect welding
       
    • By tomlad
      hi all first post  just found forum and the manuals / wiring diagram BIG THANK YOU
      im struggling to find the vin number on my frame? I m told left side of frame , lower, nr. in front of the gear pedal ?? haven't found it yet , is it numbers stamped on the frame or a commission plate ??
      main prob. no spark no power to coil , off to study the wiring info I've just found
      thanks again. tom
    • By 220Bayou
      Hi everyone,  I'm about to get my first ATV, 02 bayou 220.
      Neighbor said I could have it if I fix it, Carburetor problems, and needs a new ignition switch. last ran 2 years ago, said he changed the oil in it twice a year and never ride it hard.
      Hope I got me a good ride.
    • By nwr161282
      Evening folks
      I have a 1988 bayou 220 quad that has a damaged stator and been lying about for a few years. Recently I got the chance of a 1996 bayou 220 that had also been sitting for a few years so I decided I would try and make 1 good bike out of the 2. The 96 frame was rotten so I decided to use my original 88. I swapped the magneto and stator over from the 96 bike but then noticed that the magneto and stator wiring was slightly different so I decided best thing to do would be to change the wiring loom over. Having done this I ran into issues connecting my original run stop switch and push button start. The 96 loon had a connector with 6 wires where as the 88 had a 4 wire connector and a 3 wire connector. I sorted this by making up a conversion harness using the 2 looms but still the push button start would not work. I have now solved this by using some of the spare wires left beside the ignition key connectors and a relay. So now I have the engine turning over with the starter button. But sadly I have no spark.
      On checking the Cdi unit I have found that I have 6 wires going into the cdi unit but all the wiring diagrams I've seen only show 5 for the 96 model. The extra wire I have is a grey wire which has a loose unattached end beside the ignition switch. Does anyone know where this grey wire needs to be attached. 
      Thank you to anyone who has read this sorry it's so long but wanted to try and give the full story.
    • By johncb
      I had the local garage change the oil and filter in my machine and ever since they changed it there has been an oil leak. Taken it back several times and they can't figure out the problem.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×