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Sorry for my English, I live in Ukrane, Kharkiv.
I have Can Am Renegede 800, 2007, g1, mileage is 430 hours. Happened issue with chain in first cylinder. Mechanic opened engine and found problems with piston, rings, cylinder, etc. So engine need full rebuild.
I found rebuild kit on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/06-10-Can-Am-Outlander-800-800R-Stock-Cylinder-Crank-Complete-Engine-Rebuild-Kit/253868930525?fits=Make%3ACan-Am&hash=item3b1bc475dd:g:NdMAAOSwew5a-bY9
Price is really good. For example original crankshaft costs $929.99. Here full kit costs $999. This kit made by BP Racing ATV Company. Here is their website https://bpracingatv.com/
But I can’t find reviews to their products. My mechanics didn’t used parts from BP Racing ATV before. And their parts not very popular in Ukraine. I’m afraid that I will spent money for this kit + delivery + pay to mechanic for a work and will need new engine rebuild after 100 hours.
What is the quality of parts from BP Racing ATV?
Is it have sence to buy this kit, or pay more and buy original parts?
Maybe someone used this kits for rebuild engine. And have expirence of using this parts. What will your mind about quality of parts from BP Racing?
Thanks for your answers.
'11 Grizz 700 here. Since I've got some warm weather these next couple days I've decided to start the bike after about a year of just sitting. Took out the plug and sprayed a good amount of fogging oil on top of the piston to help lubricate things. After about a minute of letting it soak I stuck my air line tubing in to suck out the excess, but it seems like I didn't get nearly as much in return. Repositioned the tube enough so that everything that was gonna come out pretty much did. I'll probably shoot some compressed air down the plug hole before doing the start just to make sure it's all out, as well as cranking it for a second before putting the plug back in. How long would it take for a bit of standing fogging oil to seep past the piston rings, and where would it go? I guess into the engine oil? The oil was fairly new the last time it was started but I'm sure it could stand to be changed after sitting for so long. If much of this fogging oil got into the engine oil should I do the change before the startup?
While riding my Quadzilla XLC 500 I was cruising along about 60 mph then opened it up, but once I hit 70-75 mph it died on me so I rolled to a stop and it wouldn't start for about 20-30 seconds. I then noticed the Temp light occasionally flashes on but its so quick you wouldn't notice in the day so not sure how long its been happening. The engine has started pinging when I accelerate which can be caused by many things so I drained the fuel and replaced with hi octane, fitted a new spark plug, adjusted the little washer on the high jet in the carb twice to make it run more lean which made no difference. I tested the thermostat which opens at the correct temperature, I removed the radiator cap and started the engine and no bubbles were showing and the oil is on maximum and very clean as I have not long serviced it.
The last time I took it out I went 14 miles and the coolant in the bottle has dropped about 1/2".
I am now leaning towards a head gasket and have purchased a full gasket kit but was wondering if there's anything else it could be before taking the engine apart.
Anyone out there spice up their 2002 Kawasaki Lakota Sport 300 with cam, shaved head, deck the jug, valves?
As you probably have already seen, I have a top end to get built back up and might as well add a little kick to it. Here's a pic of a golf cart I built up recently and modified the engine a little while I had it apart.
Thanks in advance for everyone's help!!
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Complete Grizzly build
I built this Grizzly to preform at top ability in the mud! There is a few things that i am looking to change on the grizzly but well see!
Gorilla Silverbacks 28x10x12 Front, 28x12x12 Rear
( https://atvtirescanada.com/gorilla-silverback-tire.html )
( https://n2deepcustoms.com/ )
Rox Speed FX risers and bars
( https://bit.ly/2TsRv18 )
2r Racing tip
( https://amzn.to/2GgNdpE )
( http://2rracing.com/ )
White Secondary spring. 8 - 16g rollers, 1.5mm shim
( bought at local dealer )
Rad Relocation kit:
( http://www.rubberdowncustoms.ca/ )
12" Light bar
( https://amzn.to/2TrfZYy )
( https://amzn.to/2TpF9Xu )
Flush Mount LED headlight conversion:
( https://amzn.to/2D10Lm8 )
Yamaha front Bumper
( bought at dealer )
( https://amzn.to/2DQwmIR ) - guards
( https://amzn.to/2S2BCSq ) - mounts
3/4 inch spring spacers
Synthetic winch line
( https://amzn.to/2Gj1S3F )
By Alan Callison
Hello boys and girls!:howdy:I need a little help if ya dont mind.I need to replace the rear axle bearings on my 400 but Im going at this blind having never done it before. Ive looked it up in the repair manual but it doesn't give any specific steps on how to do it. I've got the left rear brakes off already as I was replacing the shoes anyway. Can somebody give me a rundown on what Ive gotta do please?I know I need to pull the right wheel off just havent done that yet. Do I need to take anything apart in the final drive or elsewhere in order to yank the axle out for instance? Which side does the axle come out from,L or R? Any details I need to know will be greatly appreciated.Thanks ya'll!
So I'm trying to figure out the year of one of my Timberwolf's. I have 4.
2 are definitely 1993's, as I can read the serial number on those.
1 has to be close to a 93, as the back rack and lug width (156) are the same as the 93's.
The last one is killing me. Someone painted over the serial number.
Listed are the differences
Back rack is different. It goes through the plastics and will pivot on the rear attachment. Doesn't have the handles out the side, either.
Doesn't have the loops coming out of front plastics.
Foot rests are different.
Lug pattern is 110.
Everything I've read, says that the Timberwolf was produced from 92-98 and then changed name to Bear Tracker. Most parts are interchangeable through those years. Only change I found, was front brakes were upgraded to disk in 2001.
By Alan Callison
I just got a 2004 Yamaha that needs some work.Its got wet brakes on the front that Im trying to get working.My problem is the brake lever.This the lever on it now.On the master cylinder it has a cable in it that has the wire that fits in a slot inside the lever itself but this lever isn't made for that.I dont know if whoever had it before didn't know what they were doing or what but its the wrong lever for this machine. Can someone point me in the right direction here? I looked at the Yamaha website and the schematics only show a part that looks like this one here. Again,I have a 2004 Yam 400 Kodiak 4x4 and its an automatic model. BTW,the master cyl. was bone dry. I was gonna change out the rear brake shoes and when I went to pull off the wheel,get this, each wheel stud had 2 different sized washers holding the lug nuts to the wheel rim. The stud holes were so worn out it had worn away the base of the studs and the holes were the size of quarter! Im lucky someone didn't die while riding this! A word to the wise.Pay attention to what you buy.Look carefully and keep a keen eye out. This was my fault because it was the 1st ATV Id ever bought and I didnt notice alot on this machine so I guess I count myself lucky in that I didnt get hurt nor did anyone else who rode it either.
I have a 1994 big bear and I am starting to have issues starting. I put in a new starter and selnoid as the at stopped starting with the electrical but will still start with the pull cord. Where and what now should I be looking at to check? If I turn key to on and the switch to on then hit the start button, the bike clicks and then nothing. Lights still work but no response to the starter. Stumped now. Any help would be greAt.
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