Quantcast
Jump to content


DS650 won't start


Recommended Posts

I hate to be that guy that signs up only to ask for help, but I am at my wits end. I am working on a 2000 DS650 that quit running after the rider dumped the clutch repeatedly.

I had to fix a few things to get where I am now, cranks but doesn't start.

New starter clutch
New CDI
New coils
New trigger coil set at .003
New spark plugs set at .026
New rectifier

Verified TDC, used locking bolt and pulled cam cover to verify valve timing which seems good. While I had it locked at TDC, I did a compression leakdown test which showed a loss of only 4@100psi
Compression test shows about 112#
Carb had clean gas, but pulled jet and blew through passages, all clear and clean
All this thing does is spin. Nice, bluish/white spark at the plugs, added fuel through spark plug hole and used ether, both failed, not even a hiccup or fart, just keeps spinning.

Someone please give me some ideas here before I pull out my gray hair?!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the reply, I am pretty certain it is TDC on compression/power stoke, all cam lobes are horizontal and opposing each other with all valves closed. Also, My leak down test would have dumped out the exhaust.

I should add that I am a bit perplexed that the trigger coil pad is no where near the trigger coil while locked in place..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK...

4 hours ago, Cavemanhands said:

 

I should add that I am a bit perplexed that the trigger coil pad is no where near the trigger coil while locked in place..

That is not good .. Check to  see  if  possibly the   key on the  rotor has sheared  and allowed it  to  turn  on the  crankshaft.  That would explain why  the magnet is nowhere  near  the  trigger  coil  at   TDC compression.

"Dumping  the  clutch" several  times could  have   caused  the  motor  to abruptly   drop  in  RPM  putting  a  lot  of  inertial  torque   on the  rotor  subsequently  shearing  the  key ..

Edited by davefrombc
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I figured out where I went wrong. When I replaced the starter clutch and gear, I clocked the mag in the wrong location. Can anyone show me or tell me where the pad should be with the lock bolt installed at TDC? The manual said about 10 degrees at most or something, but should the pad be forward or behind the trigger pad?

I just took it apart again. the key is fine.

Thanks for the reply!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since it works as a magneto, I would say  after. Ignition systems usually  fire   a  few  degrees  before  TDC to  give  maximum power. The higher  the  rpm,  the   earlier  the  spark . . Low  rpm   motors  sometimes use  a retarded spark   for bottom  end  power .  The  magnet  of the trigger pad  should  pass the  pickup  before the  piston reaches  TDC to  produce the  advanced spark.  The    manual  should specify  the timing , and  I would suspect  there should be  a  timing mark on the  gears.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I  found a service manual  for the  Bombardier DS650  and downloaded  it to  the "Other ATV"  in the  service manual list.

  I'm  not impressed with it  as  far  as the  ignition system  is concerned..  There is no  timing  mark  for  the  magneto. There  is nothing  stating  where  the  magnet  and  pickup  coil  should be   positioned at  TDC. Just the  gap  is  mentioned.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

there is no adjustment on the timing other than the trigger gap. The mag can only be clocked one way, evidently. I clocked it so it appeared as this pic on Ron Wood's site. It now fires up and runs, although it has a significant "cough" every now and then that will kill the engine. Not really sure what's up with that yet.

I am just glad it will start and rev.

DS650mag.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

Ok guys needs some help asap ready to set this thing on fire..thing would never start valves were tight i adjusted the calves to correct shims on intake n exhaust have plenty of clearance in between cam lobes n shims..problem is i done set tdc about 10 times now its dead on..will not fire one hiccup sprayed gas into carb while cranking n while not all it does is make a loud backfire n some flames come out. Its like valves are tight but there not.idk how it could be firing wrong with it at tdc. I need help asap carn is clean have plenty of spark bright blue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Clydaho
      2022 Sector 550, 414 miles on it and the gas gauge reads empty.  I topped off the gas and it didn't change.
      There is no fuse that I could find.  No access at the gauge cluster.
      Wiring on the top of the tank looks good, properly connected.
      Could the sending unit in the tank be stuck or broken?
      Has anybody removed the tank lid?  Any tricks?  
      Any other ideas?
      Thanks for any help,
      Clyde
    • By McG75
      1996 4x4 Timberwolf rearend width. Can someone with some knowledge of these machines answer this question for me please. Are all 4x4 timberwolves this narrow in the rearend? These tires are so close the right one actually rubs the muffler.  Thinking about seeing if there are any spacers out there for it. I need at least an inch more clearance. 
      .
       
       
    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By skittle021
      So I've got a Hisun 550 that I was doing some work on that required removing the CVT and it's housing. Upon attempting to reinstall the clutch, sheaves, etc, I found that the belt no longer fits - it's far too wide. None of the parts have been replaced, they're all OEM. Exactly the same parts as what I took off a few weeks ago.
      To be more specific, my belt is 1.25in wide, but the gap between the clutch and the primary sheave is only 7/8in wide. I'll include a few photos to explain.
      Has anyone ever experienced such a bizarre problem? Any help at all would be appreciated, I've been stuck on this for a month. I'm open to just about any suggestion.
      Photos: 
       





    • By kiriyaaoi
      Hello everyone, I just picked up an 02 LT-F250F the other day and have been in the process of tearing it down to fix some stuff- one of which was the cylinder base gasket leaking like a sieve. Well, I know why that is now, and I also discovered that someone had been in there before. I didn't take pictures, but it looks like it was probably run low on oil at some point, the cam journals and the "bearings" (for lack of a better term) in the head and the valve cover are totally wiped out, very deep grooves.  From what I know it's very difficult to repair aluminum in this way, so I'm trying to figure out where to go next.
       
      1. Have someone grind down the head and valve cover and fit actual bearings in since the aluminum is screwed, and have the cam ground down to match.  I have no idea what this would cost.
      2. Buy a replacement head+cam+valve cover.
       
      #1 I was hoping someone might have some advice on, but #2 seems like it'll (probably) be the more cost effective option.  However I'm running into some difficulty, it seems like the 2001 and 2002 models specifically use a different head part number,  11100-19B10, instead of  11100-19B01 like for all earlier models.  What exactly is the difference between them? There are obviously far more of the earlier heads because it ran for over 10 years.  Are they actually interchangeable? I've also noticed there are heads from the LT250EF that has 4 valve heads but also otherwise look identical.  Would those work as well possibly?  I'd like to not have to drop $500 on machine work or new heads on a $1300 quad that I'm already putting a bunch of new parts on.  Oh, and it has a new piston and the cylinder itself looks pretty good too, as I said someone was in here before me.
       
      Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'll post pics of the carnage tomorrow.
         
       
×
×
  • Create New...