Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I hate to be that guy that signs up only to ask for help, but I am at my wits end. I am working on a 2000 DS650 that quit running after the rider dumped the clutch repeatedly.

I had to fix a few things to get where I am now, cranks but doesn't start.

New starter clutch
New CDI
New coils
New trigger coil set at .003
New spark plugs set at .026
New rectifier

Verified TDC, used locking bolt and pulled cam cover to verify valve timing which seems good. While I had it locked at TDC, I did a compression leakdown test which showed a loss of only 4@100psi
Compression test shows about 112#
Carb had clean gas, but pulled jet and blew through passages, all clear and clean
All this thing does is spin. Nice, bluish/white spark at the plugs, added fuel through spark plug hole and used ether, both failed, not even a hiccup or fart, just keeps spinning.

Someone please give me some ideas here before I pull out my gray hair?!

 

Posted

thanks for the reply, I am pretty certain it is TDC on compression/power stoke, all cam lobes are horizontal and opposing each other with all valves closed. Also, My leak down test would have dumped out the exhaust.

I should add that I am a bit perplexed that the trigger coil pad is no where near the trigger coil while locked in place..

Posted (edited)

OK...

4 hours ago, Cavemanhands said:

 

I should add that I am a bit perplexed that the trigger coil pad is no where near the trigger coil while locked in place..

That is not good .. Check to  see  if  possibly the   key on the  rotor has sheared  and allowed it  to  turn  on the  crankshaft.  That would explain why  the magnet is nowhere  near  the  trigger  coil  at   TDC compression.

"Dumping  the  clutch" several  times could  have   caused  the  motor  to abruptly   drop  in  RPM  putting  a  lot  of  inertial  torque   on the  rotor  subsequently  shearing  the  key ..

Edited by davefrombc
  • Like 1
Posted

I think I figured out where I went wrong. When I replaced the starter clutch and gear, I clocked the mag in the wrong location. Can anyone show me or tell me where the pad should be with the lock bolt installed at TDC? The manual said about 10 degrees at most or something, but should the pad be forward or behind the trigger pad?

I just took it apart again. the key is fine.

Thanks for the reply!

Posted

Since it works as a magneto, I would say  after. Ignition systems usually  fire   a  few  degrees  before  TDC to  give  maximum power. The higher  the  rpm,  the   earlier  the  spark . . Low  rpm   motors  sometimes use  a retarded spark   for bottom  end  power .  The  magnet  of the trigger pad  should  pass the  pickup  before the  piston reaches  TDC to  produce the  advanced spark.  The    manual  should specify  the timing , and  I would suspect  there should be  a  timing mark on the  gears.

  • Like 1
Posted

I  found a service manual  for the  Bombardier DS650  and downloaded  it to  the "Other ATV"  in the  service manual list.

  I'm  not impressed with it  as  far  as the  ignition system  is concerned..  There is no  timing  mark  for  the  magneto. There  is nothing  stating  where  the  magnet  and  pickup  coil  should be   positioned at  TDC. Just the  gap  is  mentioned.

Posted

there is no adjustment on the timing other than the trigger gap. The mag can only be clocked one way, evidently. I clocked it so it appeared as this pic on Ron Wood's site. It now fires up and runs, although it has a significant "cough" every now and then that will kill the engine. Not really sure what's up with that yet.

I am just glad it will start and rev.

DS650mag.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

well, it is back together and ready for whatever they wish to do with it. I am very grateful for the help from this forum!
The cough was due to the springs falling out of one of the coil wires, I believe. I replaced those pieces and it seems to idle and run very well.
 

DS650done.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Great  to  learn  you got it  running ok..    I see   with that  picture  it  is the rotor  itself that  is  keyed to the  shaft  and the gear  behind  bolts to  it,  so now  I  know why  there  was  no  mention  of  how it was timed.

  • Like 1
  • 10 months later...
Posted

Ok guys needs some help asap ready to set this thing on fire..thing would never start valves were tight i adjusted the calves to correct shims on intake n exhaust have plenty of clearance in between cam lobes n shims..problem is i done set tdc about 10 times now its dead on..will not fire one hiccup sprayed gas into carb while cranking n while not all it does is make a loud backfire n some flames come out. Its like valves are tight but there not.idk how it could be firing wrong with it at tdc. I need help asap carn is clean have plenty of spark bright blue.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By quadnut20
      Just picked up a 2025 Yamaha Kodiak 700 fixing to do a EPI Clutch mod to it since I dropped bigger tires on it !! Air box , exhaust , and programmer next ! 

    • By joezee13
      After turning off engine in neutral  starter wont engage If I rock unit back and forth it engages Getting progressive worse.
    • By middlebrookgt
      Hi All.  I introduced myself some weeks ago with my 2006 LT-F400F that needed a list of repairs including replacing the cracked generator cover.  It is back together as of last night and cranks up, idles and revs high pretty well.  Needs some fine tuning and stop backfiring at stop.
      The big issue is it will not go into gear.  I reassembled the insides with help from y’all’s posts.  The transfer selector moves from H-L-R, and the foot shifter moves thru the gears and finds neutral easily enough.  Before I tear it back open, the  transfer selector on top does not move as far as the repair manual says.  The diagram shows the shaft moving something like 40 degrees between L and H and 50+ degrees between L and R but it doesn’t move that far even though it finds the indent areas and moves well.  
      Could this be the problem.  I aligned all the dots on the shifter gears inside and it appeared to not be binding anywhere.  I do hear the gears touching when I shift like they are trying to engage, but zero movement from the ARV
      It was somewhat difficult to tell whether all the parts are installed on each shaft.
      Are there better/bigger photos somewhere that would allow me to be confident I included all the washers and bushings, etc?  If I had any doubt on parts that were laying inside after the cover broke then I purchased replacements from online stores.
      TIA for any input or feedback!!  Pics are from when I first took the generator cover off.


    • By sunn
      The clutch engagement on my 2021 cforce 400s was approx 2700 RPM, very abrupt/not smooth.   I obtained a "kit" from RNG consisting of a blue painted spring (spring force unknown) with 12 gram weights, as measured on my postal scale.  Installation was easy; 18 mm and 30 mm (not 32 mm as seen on other writings) impact sockets for clutch housing removal.  The resultant clutch engagement was still up to approx 2500 and very abupt/not smooth.
       The original spring was labeled p/n 0951-1021 (specs for spring force 300/1600) with 18 gram weights.
      I called RNG who told me the kit should work fine for my ATV, but that wasn't the case as I found.  
      The RNG spring was slightly longer than the stock spring, but felt slightly easier at initial downward force but had more resistance than stock as I continued to push down.  RNG would not tell me what the spring force was.
      I then tested the clutch with the RNG spring and the OEM 18 gram weights with the resultant engagement RPM of about 2050 RPM, a little smoother engagement but still not good.
      I am really struggling to get any answers on the best combination of spring / weights to achieve a smooth engagement of maybe 1800 RPM.  Note; idle RPM is approx. 1600.
      I have searched all the forums and cannot find good information, and RNG appears to be not willing to share information.  What gives here?  Anyone with experience to share?
    • By Asand211
      I've got a 1995 220 Bayou and the electric start does not work.  When I got it the machine was pretty rough but I was told it ran less than a year ago.  The key switch had been cut off and wires  twisted after the key was lost.  I bought a new ignition switch and repaired the wiring and it is working correctly.  It is in neutral and the neutral light is on when the key is turned on but I get nothing when pressing the start button.  I verified there is no voltage going to the starter from the solenoid.  The fuse in the solenoid is good.  Something I found that is odd is that I get positive voltage(12 volts) to the brown, black, and white wires that run into the solenoid when the key is on.  That doesn't make sense to me but I could be wrong.  I would appreciate any help I can get. Thank you in advance.  
×
×
  • Create New...