Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV, UTV or SxS? Join our Community Forum!

    QUADCRAZY ATV Community and Forum are FREE to join! We keep our ATV, UTV, and SxS forums clean and user friendly. All first time posters in our forums will have to wait to have their content reviewed and approved. Once your first ten posts are approved, you will no longer need to go through a forum post approval process. To bypass the approval process with immediate access and a NO ADS experience in our ATV, SxS, and UTV forums, consider subsribing to a Premium Membership

Suzuki LT80 bogged down with throttle open


Recommended Posts

I rebuilt the top end, rebuilt the carb, and replaced the reed. Starts, runs and idles but has no power.  Cant barely move itself with no one on it. Air filter ok. Sounds like its bogged down with throttle open. Compression test showed 140 psi. Plug looks good. Gaskets look good. Im lost. Any suggestions??????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update.

I removed exhaust which may or may not have made  a difference. 

I opened primary case to inspect clutches.

Front clutch looked ok but there was alot of grease in it. Cleaned a bit and reset rollers. Rear clutch seemed not to engage well. Spring wasnt extending fully it seemed I opened it and took the sheen off the contact points and reassembled. Belt looked ok. Ran with primary open and it seemed better but still not enough power to move the bike with weight on it. Still lost. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I have a similar issue with a 1999 lt80; It runs fine until the engine is really hot; then we loose power and eventually it won't stay running. My gear-head friend says he thinks it's an air-leak once it expands. We're going after it tonight with a can of carb-cleaner to try and find/confirm it. We had replaced the carb and put a cheap knock-off topend kit on it (some yahoo had run it without an air-filter and killed the head).

ALso had a sticking clutch problem as the rollers were flattened by the previous owner (maybe a fat/heavy person killed it). That was an ebay purchase.

If you have any success, please share.

-Tks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forgot to add that we pulled the air and fuel filters/replaced to make sure they weren't starving the engine. Also, killed the auto-oiler and just started mixing oil/fuel to better control the mix. All the gaskets are new with the exception of the carb-gasket (little plastic one) which might end up being where the issue is located.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I reassembled the clutches and primsry case. Rollers looked good. Just the slightest flat spot on a few of them. Belt was good. When i ran it open the front clutch never seemed to expand but i think its bc the motor didnt spin fast enough to engage it. With everything except the plastics back on it starts and idles fine but with full throttle barely moves the wheels on jack stands.  All gaskets are new. Compression is great. Only thing odd i noticed is motor doesnt sound completely normal and the air temp out of the top end case seems hotter than usual. Im thinking about rebuiling the top end again even though its new. Thought ring clearance was good but maybe its too tight?? Might try a new plug too. What's the best plug to use here??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...
  • 3 years later...

OK so, just on the off chance anyone FROM THE FUTURE comes here, I had this EXACT same problem and tried all the same solutions presented here. You wanna know what it was? The starter gear disc that sits behind the primary clutch was filpped the wrong way. The 'post' is supposed to be facing OUT away from the engine, and on both mine, and the parts machine I had, it was the wrong way. Thing is, even installed backwards IT WILL STILL START AND RUN.

BUT WILL NOT MOVE OR REV UP. 

My suspicion is this:  People read about the clutch tweaks, take it all apart, pull a few rollers, lighten the clutch arms by 18g, put it back together and either flip the starter gear or put the washer on the wrong side of the bushing, thereby limiting or eliminating primary clutch travel.  They search online for "LT80 WILL NOT MOVE OR REV UP" in vain, clean the absolute piss out of their carb multiple times til it's got a mirror finish from being boiled alive in lemon juice and purple power. Buy new jets. Buy a new carb.  They check stator alignment and timing. Replace all the electrical components. Twice. Then give up in frustration and sell it to the next guy who goes through the same Sisyphean cycle, only to have the thing roll back down the hill dragging him and his wallet along with it. 

After all my google fu and internet sleuthing here and abroad in the wilds of the ATV forums, I had come to the conclusion that it was flat spots on my rollers and them being gunked up with old grease and mouse feces. All of these things proved to be true, and I ordered all the relevant parts last night. And then had the epiphany whilst browsing the parts fiche at Babbitt's. 

"IT'S FU*%ING BACKWARDS!?!"  

It was, indeed, fu*%ing backwards. So I flipped it. The right way. And after the fifteen thousandth time of taking half the quad apart and putting it all back together again... it fired up and went brap and lit up the tires.

And that's how I got caught ripping around the streets half naked in the rain on a child's ATV screaming "FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU************************%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%  YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHH! IT RUUUUNNNNNSS!" and doing donuts in the road at 2am like some sort of deranged two stroke Dr. Frankenstein.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By dalton7545
      ive had an account for years.   cand dowload a manual tho   havent posted enought so here is a post
    • By jashadams
      Hey all back again with my 1989 moto 4 250.
      After putting a new carb on it it's really sputtery, it has new gas and I'm wondering what to tune on the carb to make it idle better. I've attached a video to describe the issue more. The bike is still work in progress but I think the video gets the point across. Thanks!
      Snapchat-1142015191.mp4
    • By p5200
      Hello folks, my machine wound up with I think water in the tank etc. It runs but speeds up and slows back down randomly. When not running I don't see gas dripping  from the drain nipple on bottom of float bowl and drain screw is closed tight. With normal idle speed I see no leaking. When the idle speed increases quite a bit on it's own, gas appears to start slowly dripping from float bowl drain nipple? I'm wondering if the carb is flooding and the gas is actually coming from higher up and just appears, to be coming out of nipple but, is actually running down the sides of the nipple? I put a kit in the factory Mikuni carb last year after sitting for a while and I think the gas in the jug I used had drawn moisture. I plan to pull the carb tomorrow and clean everything out. I was just curious if anyone else thinks it's probably something in the carb and is, acutally a flooding problem? Thanks Folks! 🙂
    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By Werewolf
      My wheeler originally had a fuel leak.But on trying to start it no spark. Took front end off, when I try to start it I get one spark then nothing. Come back a while latter one spark,replaced coil and cdi box no help?
  • Similar Tagged Forum Content

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...