Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

LMI

2005 KQ 700 Fan Not Spinning

Recommended Posts

Was using the quad the other day to shuttle wood from my pickup to my wood pile.  When the job was done I turned off the Quad and heard a bit of a racket from the front end.  When I got down underneath the sound seemed to be coming from the fan housing.  fan was moving in spurts and not quickly... much like a computer case fan that's had it's day.  What I know.

  1. Temp sensor is ok, as the fan tries to activate
  2. fan is getting some voltage as it is attempting to spin.  When I first bought it used I tested the fan direct to battery and it was fine.
  3. The fan was working ok even not direct wired as I went on a couple of rides and when stopped and idling the fan did run
  4. Seems to be free spinning with my finger

read up in the manual and they require me to drop the rad.  now I'm not opposed to that as the rad has some damaged areas I want to try and straighten out.  But if I can get the fan working without, I can leave the rad as it is until next year.

Fan assembly is about 300 bills, any work arounds or alternatives?  I even thought large computer case brushless fan.  smaller ones are about $7 larger ones better quality probably far below the 300.  They run standard 12v DC.

Anything I should be doing before dropping the rad... other than check for obstructions even though it seems to spin, and trying to hardwire it to the battery again for a test to see if it acts the same?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


So here is what I have.  I applied direct battery tonight and it made the same noise no spin.  removed the front rack, front body, and removed the fan assembly.  Once out the fan just fell off the shaft.  Looking at it briefly it just seems to have lost the nut.  however looking at it more closely, with the fan shaft hole seemingly non-circular and the cam like part of the motor shaft, I am beginning to think the whole thing should be cam'ed and that the CAM is stripped.

Anyone know how thisBikeBandit-Fan.JPG.796cbc0d719e2ff3d8817c6115f15175.JPG is supposed to look?  Can't tell from the Bike Bandit diagram.

 

Am I pooched here?  Do I have to replace the entire assembly?  As you can see it has already had some work done there is a rough cut rubber gasket under the motor casing.

Let me know what you guys think.

 

fan.jpg.5a3d7cf49a1da0358d64d61dadca9028.jpg

 

MOTR-Assem.jpg.563a71c641f43aaf40b877206994bdbd.jpgShaft.jpg.edeb9f36abc5fdbffac286c77409f079.jpgSHAFT-Fan.thumb.jpg.ecd03eacfe8b7ff11cbe52fd7739f032.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I've noodled on this a little and here is my plan of attack.

 

I'm going to drill a hole in the fan motor shaft perpendicular to the shaft and insert a steel pin.  Then I am going to notch the fan hub across the center hole.   Basically create a cam.  Then apply lock-tite and a nut.  The fan should be held securely between the perpendicular pin and the nut.  now when the shaft spins the fan has to spin with it due to the pin.  As long as the nut stays put, the ping shouldn't slip out of the notch.

It's similar to a spin cast fishing reel, I have some where there is a cross pin to keep the spool from spinning and the drag nut keeps it all together.

There is enough of a notch on the shaft to be able to grab it in a vice without wrecking the threads.  Then it is a matter of trying to free hand drill a perfectly perpendicular hole (I think we all know how that will turn out) on Lord knows how tough a steel shaft.  For the hub notch maybe a dremil or ort sort of rotating mini tool, or those little reciprocating saws not sure what they are called but blade slides back and forth like barber clippers.

worse case is I take a useless fan and shaft, and drill a no so perpendicular hole (can bend pin to compensate I guess) and the fan wobbles touch until I can adjust.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good luck on your hole drilling. Helps to have a spotter to keep you square on it. You could try a steel roll pin for better security. Have you looked on ebay for the part you need? Usually good deals on used parts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Needed to find a little time to execute the plan, so last weekend found all the bits I needed.   Here is what it looks like.  Pin hole went well.  my hack saw wasn't wide enough for the pin, so I resorted to a grinding disk mounted on a drill.  The pin groove you can see is a touch off center despite my efforts to keep it centered.  if it wobbles too much I always have a second chance, I can make another groove 90 to the first and try to better center it.  In the other pic you can see it all seated together.   A new problem surfaced.  the fan's hub collar, you can see it is a few mm off of the motor spindle.... when I took this out the fan only had a couple of mm of clearance on the rad side.  So I was a little concerned about that so I cut the hub groove a little deeper.... now unfortunately what happens is when I tighten up the nut for the fan motor shaft it bottoms out before snugging the fan on the pin and it is a little sloppy.  So my next plan is to mod one or 2 washers as spacers allowing the nut to tension up the fan.  If my rad clearance is insufficient, I think I can add some washers to the rad mount bolts to stand it off the rad a little more.

I don't even know if I am working with stock parts on this.  certainly the fan assembly mount frame is stock as it lines up and the fan motor appears to be stock as the mount holes line up to the frame, but I won't know if the fan is stock.  It may have been a replacement or something.

 

Wish me luck

 

hub.jpg

pin.jpg

pin-hub.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


liquid steel is handy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well... after all was said and done, I wasn't happy with the connection point.  Still too much play to be reliable...I figure the nut, even with lock tight, would end up spinning off.   I ended up welding the hub to the shaft... fek it.  nice smooth even spin now.  no wobble. no play.

Was visiting my brother over the weekend, an industrial mechanic, and brought the fan with me.  He had a MIG.  After a few wobbly pops, lots of discussion, trying a few things... the welder was a good choice.  if it breaks now... its going to blow apart into a million pieces.

I'll take in on a local run to give it a whirl before hunting season.  Opens in 2 weeks.  This chapter ends.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Craig Newton Lawton
      Hi thanks for adding me on here, i bought a none running 110cc thundercat quad and i have spark, fuel, compression but it wont start anyone have any ideas as im stumped 
    • By JacobSlabach
      I have a gentleman that asked me to service his bayou for him.  I have always wondered what oil should be used in atv engines?  Pros?  Cons?  What weight should be used in what type of weather?  Is there one kind that I could bulk buy and safely used in any quad I worked on or owned?  What about performance?  Engine Life?  This has always been a 🤔🤔🤔 area for me with quads as far as why you would use one type of oil over another....
      Thanks!
    • By marlon smith
      i HAVE A 2008 BAja 250 ur quad, have running problems and electrical rewiring project. I have found this model is made by loncin which has went out business. Have found some parts such as switches that have to be rewired and I think I have a bad stator. Will run till warm and then stops firing. The cdi is new and would not fire at all till I replaced it. Now I have this problem. Can anyone connect me with a good wiring diagram and a good diagnostic  procedure for this 7 wire 3 plug  cdi?
    • By DemonQuad666
      I'm Excited. in 4 days i will go pick up my Crated 89 LT250r Quadracer. completely unseen. No idea of condition or complete parts list. With a lot of unknowns, Ive started making a parts wish list. Which has me trying to decide on set ups, color scheme, aftermarket, OEM, or hybrid parts and in general what i am wanting to get out of this Quad. After much back and forth i'm done arguing with my self. since this is a complete rebuild and not going to be a restoration. I've decided I want to build a  balanced mix between Mx race ready machine and a trail dominant beast. So where to start??? I'm greedy so of course I want all the pros and none of the cons. Not as easy as it sounds.This is What i've come up with so far.  Which at any time is subject to change.  Chassis Gussets a must. the last thing i want is to destroy the frame after spending hours upon hours building around it. All stainless steel control cables and lines. +2+1 A Arms, +4 Axle. The goal here is to have 50" stance. I understand in the past most trail riders prefer a more narrow stance 46" to 48"  but with the saturation of UTV ( Joto side by sides) on the trails. Most trails have been widened. So in reality a 50" wide Quad should not struggle for room while gaining the added stability of a wider stance. +2 Swing Arm, If I can find one... The absolute best Adjustable Suspension system I can afford. Performance Pipe/silencer, Reeds, and Carb combo to get max out of assuming stock engine.  Holeshot tires or similar on 9" rims. Nerf Bars. LED light upgrade. Possibly a larger fuel tank upgrade, If such thing exists. Custom Air box with performance filter. All Black Race cut Plastics. All Chassis, Arms, Nerf bars, Bumpers, engine, Wheel Hubs, Brake Calipers, Foot pegs. Up 1 tooth front Sprocket and down 1 tooth rear sprocket. Plus anything I forgot underneath. Will all be powder coated a Rich but not to bright Blood Red . Including Grips and guards same Red. Along with Same Red Suspension covers... A 4" to 5" single S Suzuki Logo for nose of front hood same red. Red stitched Full Suzuki Logo on back of seat. a custom and Extremely SATANIC Vinyl job.  Upside down crosses, pentagrams, and Number plate 666. You guessed it, same red with white highlights for depth. Her name will be Jeannie. After my wife. who is a very sexy, yet life sucking bitch, that will lay you out and punish you if you push her to far.
      So this is my basic concept. All while trying to Balance Trail with Mx.  If  you see or think of something I missed or something you think may work better for my situation, by all means, mention it here. I will definitely take a look at it. Suggestions, thoughts, opinions are very much welcome... Until then... Deuces!!!
    • By davefrombc
      So  you think you  have a  hot  quad?
      Copied this article from  newatlas.com
      Hopefully the file transfers ok. It's one insane quad not exactly fit  for the bush   LOL
       
      Engler super quad.doc
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By KQ300cy
      Hi all, new to the forum, looking forward to getting some help/advice on maintaining an 18 yr old atv!  So my King Quad 300, recently started running really rough (otherwise ok til this point) at anything more than idle.  After started, choke on/off, doesn't seem to matter, it shutters (Not sure how else to explain it) really bad when given throttle.  I can let the engine run for several minutes, but this never improves.  
      Fuel pump checks out ok, and I don't see any gas in the fuel pump vacuum line.  I am a novice on a carburetor, but I need to see what's going on, so after taking it apart, I have a question about this plastic part with an o-ring that is above the jet needle.  Appears as if someone rebuilt this carb, because it is extremely clean...so I am wondering if this plastic part looks to be typical for this carb...or not.  Thanks in advance for the help!



    • By Wolds Alpacas
      I have just ordered a Suzuki King Quad 300 which should be here this week - it is described as "with slow running needing attention"  I am as a matter of course going to put a new spark plug in, change the oil and oil filter and blow out the air filter with compressed air - anything else I should consider?  Also, the headlights do not work - I want to change them out for LED ones anyway though. 
    • By David Land
      I have an 05 King Quad 700 that has in the past had to have the stator replaced twice.  For the past six months it has been down hard as I cannot get it to fire.  I have replaced the coil (which is the code that came up) and now I have a friend replacing the stator.  I want to see if the new stator does the trick.  Drain the old fuel, and replace with 100% Ethanol free fuel, and see if that does the trick.  The local Suziki dealer will not work on it as it is over 10 years old.  So the nearest dealer is 90 miles away.  The last thing I can do after that (provided the other fixes do not work) is replace the ECM/ECU.  I also read that there was a recall on the ECM/ECU, so I need to check on that.  All of the grounding has been checked, so if anyone has an idea, I would greatly appreciate the insight.
       
      Kindly,
       
      David
    • By Ajmboy
      Pretty good video on the history of Suzuki ATVs if you are interested in some ATV education. Starts off from when three wheelers were the norm.
      Suzuki, A company with about 100 years of manufacturing history is company built on bold innovation and the courage to push forward with new ideas. One of these new ideas was created in 1983, when Suzuki invented the first four wheeled ATV and introduced it to the world. At the time three-wheeled ATVs were the norm, and Suzuki’s four-wheeled ATV the LT-125 created an al-new vehicle category and literally changed the industry.
       
       
    • By Chomp
      I've got a suzuki 250 4×4. I've gone there it almost entirely and it idles fine but when I give it gas it bogs down never winding tight. All it doesn't have is a breather box would a breather box cause this problem
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...