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By John Victor
My father-in-law gave my boy a 1999 350 Big Bear. It's been sitting in a barn for a bunch of years. It runs great! My boy has been riding a couple weeks now and it has developed a squeal coming from the front end when you get off the gas at speed. No noise during acceleration. At first I thought brakes. I took it for a ride and I don't think it is the brakes. I feel it is the front prop shaft U-joints, front differential or one/both axles. I pulled the fill plug on the differential and I can't find anywhere how much gear oil should be in there. My gut says up to the fill opening. It doesn't have a manual. It's wet in there, just don't see any gear oil.
#1 Should I fill the differential with gear oil up to the fill opening?
#2 How do I check or know if the u-joints are bad? That looks like a "Big Bear" of a job if they don't need to be replaced.
#3 What else could it be? I don't think it is the front bearings. I jacked the front wheels off ground and no play in the right wheel. Very little play in the left wheel, looks like the lower control bushing is where that play is coming from. The rubber CV boots look original but all still intact. Wheels spin easily without any noise.
Thanks for any help!
By Tom Pavlak
Hi Everyone - Need some help.
Got a nice little 220...clean machine. wiring is a mess. I have a diagram however, the one I have has 4 wires coming from the ignition switch not 2 like mine. So, I cant trace wires properly.
There is a white one that runs to the Solenoid, and a brown wire...from the Ignition...I dont know where its supposed to go. Also, on the Solenoid, there are 3 wires..W to ignition, B to start relay and B/Y runs up to the front of the machine...and is not plugged into anything...and there isnt a "Mate" missing it. How do they plug into the 4 open shovels by the 20A fuse?
I'm pretty sure my Lights and start switch/Lights are correct.
Problem I cant get anything...new battery...cant get the start button to work, cant get any power to the lights or switches...so I know something is not grounded or..
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
It’s been a pleasure serving all of you. I can not ride anymore. My illness has turned to the worst and I can barely walk anymore. I will still be here helping where I can. I might just get an oddsey and work the sh!t out of it. But I’m done. I didn’t want to be in this situation. But I have to take it. It’s been so much fun here guys!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
By colin james
View File 2018/2019 Polaris Sportsman XP 850/1000 Service Manual
This is the factory service manual for the 2018/2019 Polaris Sportsman XP 850/1000
Submitter colin james Submitted 08/01/2019 Category Polaris ATV
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By Chase Cook
Hi I just got an Polaris sportsman 500 4x4 ATV the other day. I got it real cheap but I started to go into it because it didn't have compression so I bought a new piston and ring kit for it and installed it, but now when I try to start it all it does is shoot fire out the exhaust or the intake of the carburetor. And a timing is top dead center.;I think I can't really tell another way if it is or not. when I put it together I made sure to piston was on top and the cam lobes where facing down where are the cam sprocket is facing up. It has gas and spark. It did start a couple minutes ago but it didn't stay running and now it won't start. Do you think the valve need to be adjusted more to close better?I'm fixing to try that out and if that don't work what is the problem? Also I made sure everything was together good and right and change the oil and changed out the radiator fluid.
By Brian Sosebee
I just rebuilt my 03 sportsman 400. Put everything back together added oil per the manual. Pinched off the oil tank vent line 2" away ran for 45 seconds then cut it off. Check oil level and it was still way high so I wasn't confident that it primed so I did it again. Checked again and it's the same. Remove the oil filter and it is dry. I did the procedure again and the same results.
I'm worried to keep trying this as the only oil in the engine is what I used to lubricate the parts when reassembling the piston. The crankcase was drained as well.
I Removed the oil tank and checked all the lines for obstructions and the screen filter and the vent hose and everything is clear. I even pulled a small vacuum on the oil tank while it was pulled off to make sure there were no leaks. The dipstick cap was on tight so I'm not sure why this thing is not priming.
Anyone have any suggestions. I thought about pre-priming the oil lines from the oil tank to the crankcase to hopefully help the system prime. I'd like to be able to add some oil to the crankcase to so I wouldn't feel so bad about running the engine for another 60 seconds without oil. I dropped just a little bit of oil in the spark plug hole to help condition the sleeve right now.
What do I do? Anyone had or heard of an oil pump failure on these. Btw oil pump is working fine before I did the top-end rebuild and the oil pump was not touched.
Please help!!! Thanks all for any and all help.
By Kyle Meadows
I am 17 and I don't have lots of money but I know my way around older 2 stroke dirtbikes but my grandpa gave me this four-wheeler and I have had nothing but issues with it. I went through gas tank/lines and the oil injection has been bypassed, I have mixed gas in the tank and it is for sure getting to the carb. I have cleaned the carb to the best of my ability. I can get it to try and start for a few seconds but won't run any longer than 5 seconds with or without ether. Please help
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