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recon

kodiak compression issue

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I am new to forum, please bare with me. I have a 2000 Kodiak 400 that would not start, found timing had jumped 4 teeth, reset timing 'no luck', checked valve clearance all ok, .04 int / .08 exh, no luck. fire is excellent, did compression check (with gauges) compression is at "0". checked valves again still same. did leak down test found no leaks by intake nor by exhaust nor into crankcase. pulled head and gasket not blown, valves looked good (little carbon) pulled jug checked rings looked good. replaced with new rings, decarboned valves reinstalled top end reset timing and valves, still no compression. can any one please tell me what I am missing? by the way in past 19+ years have done many top ends never had this problem.

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Is the piston moving when you crank it? Could be a bad crank

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Is the piston moving when you crank it? Could be a bad crank

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You should get something when it cranks over. 0 means the piston isn't moving.

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Try to see if you get any compression from The top of the cylinder. Your lobes may be 180 out.

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If everything else checks out. You may have a cracked head or the piston isn't correct

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checking now, appreciate the input, will let  you know the outcome. thanks

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Have you checked the valve seals ? 

Pull the top cover off and crank and see if you have air coming from valve seals. 

I would disconnect the spark plug wire and put a jumper pack on it and crank the shit out of it and feel for an air leak someplace. 

Spray the shit out of the engine with a good soapy water mix, I like to use what air conditioning mechanics use for leak checks.  It’s a real soapy mixture. An air bubble will show up someplace.  

Im shocked that the timing has jumped like that and would result in the valve slamming into the piston thus cracking the top of the piston or bending a valve. But depends on how far out the timing really was when the jump happened.  

I would really take a look again to see if the jug, piston or head is cracked as well as @06kfx440 has stated and that the piston is actually moving full rotations.  

 

 

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I'm curious as to what caused the timing chain to jump 4 teeth.  That's a lot for just a worn chain.

When you did a leakdown test, did you get at least 85%?

When you turn the motor over by hand, do the valves look like they're opening and closing at the right time?

Is the locating pin for the cam sprocket in good shape?

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