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2000 Yamaha Grizzly YFM600FWA No Spark Swap CDI


Bubblehead

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Have a 2000 Yamaha Grizzly YFM600FWA with no spark.  Checked the troubleshooting chart, and all checks were within specs.  CDI has part # 5GT-00  F8T36071.  Friend has a 1998 Grizzly 600 but his CDI part # is 4WV-00  F8t34671.  Are they the same?  Thinking about taking my CDI and put it on his ATV and find out if it works, but don't want to damage something if not interchangeable.  Thanks

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Has the bike been sitting ? What condition is the cdi in? Is it possible any moisture got into the cdi. 

Most cdi units fail bc of moisture getting inside. Believe it or not you can put it in the oven on 225 deg for 10 min , NO more. Let it cool off  and put it in the bike.  Crazy but it works!   it’s a temporary fix but will tell you if that’s the problem.  

Second; have you checked and tested the stator coil, pick up and secondary coils? 

 

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Ok well that’s good on the other coils.

As crazy as it sounds it worked on my Honda fourtrax. It failed about two days later but I knew where to spending parts  tg.  Put a new cdi and bike was solid. It basically dries out the inside of the cdi. I put my oven on 225 let it get to temperature and then put the box in for 10 min. It was hot as hell and needed to cool for 15 mon lol. But it worked. 

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  • Admin changed the title to 2000 Yamaha Grizzly YFM600FWA No Spark Swap CDI

Ok so let’s get into the wiring harness and start going through it all.  This is something we are going to help you out with.  There are quite a few ppl here like myself that will help.  If you don’t mind can I ask how you tested the stator ? I’m sure yiur more then capable but I’ve made mistakes on this before.  

 

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Thanks again Frank:  Thought I was capable on the testing also, but still don't have it up and running,  , so guess not - lol.  You mentioned stator : all three legs were about the same about 1 ohm from 1-2, 1-3 and 2-3 with OL to ground.  Puts out about 8 vac while cranking.  Source/Exciter coil:  Resistance 310 Ohms green-brown and puts out 45 vac while cranking.  Pulser/Pickup coil: Resistance 488 Ohms red - white but only puts out 250 mvac while cranking.  Ignition Coil:  both primary and secondary checked out in spec.  Spark Plug:  Replaced with new one from NAPA.  Ignition Switch and Kill Switch:  Checked out good. With both switched in RUN resistance to the CDI black/white was OL, with either switch in OFF resistance around 1 Ohm and will not crank.  The only one had a ? on was the output of the Pulser. Know it is a pulse so voltage wouldn't be very high but 250 mvac sounded very low to me.  Replaced stator/pulse/source with a Ricky's Stator  RS200G8-B but still no spark.  Think I checked all the wiring and didn't find any problems.  CDIs are very expensive for this atv (for some reason, the 660 were reasonable) so don't want to replace it yet since won't take back electrical parts if installed.  A friend has a 98 600 with a different CDI (4WV-F8T34671 vs 5GT-F8T36071) my original ? was are they interchangeable?  Connections are the same.  Finally decided to take a change.  Took the 00 CDI off my ATV and put it on friends 98 and it fired right up.  Took his 98 CDI (which worked great on his ATV) and put it on mine - Still no spark.  Is that a magnet on the OUTSIDE of the flywheel/rotor?  Or does it work by changing the impedance.  Magnets on inside to stator are strong, but nothing on the outside thing which I thought was a magnet.  That about it,  Thanks for any input from you and others.

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The wiring could have changed but you would really have to compare the two diagrams to be sure. 

The stator coil should read no more then 0.63 on any of the legs.  The voltage seems low also. Also the pick up coil gap to the magnet have you checked the gap? 

When you checked the secondary coil did you check it with the spark plug wire on or off the coil? And have you tested the spark plug wire as well? 

The kill switch you tested for ohms... did you check that you have and opened and closed circuit (continuity) on the switch and that it’s not making partial connectivity and not fully opening? The switch could be bad or corroded inside.  All the components inside are made of brass or copper which are all subject to corrosion/oxidation.  

Im going to look at the manual and see if anything stands out and try to help you out a bit.   I’m sure someone on the site has had this problem and will chime in as well.  

 

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Thanks again Frank:  Thought I was capable on checking the coils, but still not working, so NOT sure .  lol.  You asked about the stator:  Assuming you mean the 3 white wires that go to the voltage regulator, measured the resistance between the winding, all within spec.  Measured between windings and ground  OL ( not shorting out)  cranked engine over and got about 7 vac on all three legs (1-2, 2-3 and 1-3) which agreed pretty much as my friends 98 Grizzly.  Checked resistance on the source/exciter coil (Brown to Green) 310 Ohms and about 60 vac when cranking engine.  On the pulse/pickup coil (red to white)  480 Ohms but only about 0.3 vac.  Know this is a pulse voltage so won't be very high, but was about 2 vac on buddy's '98.  Obviously checked out the run/stop and the ignition switch to black/white wire on the CDI.  With both switched in Run - had OL,, if either in OFF went to about 1 Ohm.  Also checked out the ignition coil and within spec both primary and secondary.  Changed out spark plug with a new one from NAPA.  To best of my knowledge/ability checked out wirings for open/shorts to ground and didn't find any problems.  One difference I can't explain the 2000 with turnover with the starter with the CDI disconnected, the '98 will not until hookup the CDI.  They have different CDI numbers 5gt-00  but when put the 00 in the 98 with worked,  when put the one from the 98 (that worked) into the 00 Nothing.  Thanks for all your help.

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Thanks again: The stator resistance didn't surprise me at about 1 Ohm (counting the lead resistance of the meter).  The voltage at cranking @ 7 v, sure would be higher if running at higher rpm.  How do you check the pickup gap?  Seems like no adjustment and can't get to it to measure with the cover in place (where the pickup coil is located)

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Sorry I thought you had the engine apart.  There is a gap that you are more then aware of based on the responses you’ve given. You seem knowledgeable.   That gap may have changed from any number of reasons. One being something in the engine that let loose. Small piece of something inside the engine maybe ? Anything’s possable.  I think the swapping of he cdi if yours was bad would have fired up even with the years in difference  as long as the plugs matched.  

How about the kill switch testing for continuity? 

Sorry for the repetitive questions, I’ve missed things in the past. Just want to make sure before you go ripping into the engine. Or get deeply involved if it’s something right in front of your face. 

 

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Thanks again for the quick response Frank:  Don't think an;ything in the engine let loose.  Definitely nothing in the area of the stator.  Checked out Kill switch and cleaned.  With in Off have about 1 ohm to ground, in Run  OL all the way to the CDI.  Never have ripped into the engine, and probably won't until spring.,  Getting too cold for these old bones.  Plugs matched on the 989 and 00 CDIs.  Is the thing on the outside of the flywheel/rotor a magnet?  If so, maybe the problem doesn't seem to have any magnetism in it.
 

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