Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Have a 2000 Yamaha Grizzly YFM600FWA with no spark.  Checked the troubleshooting chart, and all checks were within specs.  CDI has part # 5GT-00  F8T36071.  Friend has a 1998 Grizzly 600 but his CDI part # is 4WV-00  F8t34671.  Are they the same?  Thinking about taking my CDI and put it on his ATV and find out if it works, but don't want to damage something if not interchangeable.  Thanks

Posted

Has the bike been sitting ? What condition is the cdi in? Is it possible any moisture got into the cdi. 

Most cdi units fail bc of moisture getting inside. Believe it or not you can put it in the oven on 225 deg for 10 min , NO more. Let it cool off  and put it in the bike.  Crazy but it works!   it’s a temporary fix but will tell you if that’s the problem.  

Second; have you checked and tested the stator coil, pick up and secondary coils? 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks Frank:  Yes bike has been sitting for a couple of years in barn.  I have never had it running.  Bought on CL, guy said need carb work, but have never had spark.  Stator, Pick-up and Source coils are were within spec.  I'll try the oven suggestion,  have nothing to lose.

Posted

Ok well that’s good on the other coils.

As crazy as it sounds it worked on my Honda fourtrax. It failed about two days later but I knew where to spending parts  tg.  Put a new cdi and bike was solid. It basically dries out the inside of the cdi. I put my oven on 225 let it get to temperature and then put the box in for 10 min. It was hot as hell and needed to cool for 15 mon lol. But it worked. 

  • Admin changed the title to 2000 Yamaha Grizzly YFM600FWA No Spark Swap CDI
Posted

Ok so let’s get into the wiring harness and start going through it all.  This is something we are going to help you out with.  There are quite a few ppl here like myself that will help.  If you don’t mind can I ask how you tested the stator ? I’m sure yiur more then capable but I’ve made mistakes on this before.  

 

Posted

Thanks again Frank:  Thought I was capable on the testing also, but still don't have it up and running,  , so guess not - lol.  You mentioned stator : all three legs were about the same about 1 ohm from 1-2, 1-3 and 2-3 with OL to ground.  Puts out about 8 vac while cranking.  Source/Exciter coil:  Resistance 310 Ohms green-brown and puts out 45 vac while cranking.  Pulser/Pickup coil: Resistance 488 Ohms red - white but only puts out 250 mvac while cranking.  Ignition Coil:  both primary and secondary checked out in spec.  Spark Plug:  Replaced with new one from NAPA.  Ignition Switch and Kill Switch:  Checked out good. With both switched in RUN resistance to the CDI black/white was OL, with either switch in OFF resistance around 1 Ohm and will not crank.  The only one had a ? on was the output of the Pulser. Know it is a pulse so voltage wouldn't be very high but 250 mvac sounded very low to me.  Replaced stator/pulse/source with a Ricky's Stator  RS200G8-B but still no spark.  Think I checked all the wiring and didn't find any problems.  CDIs are very expensive for this atv (for some reason, the 660 were reasonable) so don't want to replace it yet since won't take back electrical parts if installed.  A friend has a 98 600 with a different CDI (4WV-F8T34671 vs 5GT-F8T36071) my original ? was are they interchangeable?  Connections are the same.  Finally decided to take a change.  Took the 00 CDI off my ATV and put it on friends 98 and it fired right up.  Took his 98 CDI (which worked great on his ATV) and put it on mine - Still no spark.  Is that a magnet on the OUTSIDE of the flywheel/rotor?  Or does it work by changing the impedance.  Magnets on inside to stator are strong, but nothing on the outside thing which I thought was a magnet.  That about it,  Thanks for any input from you and others.

Posted

The wiring could have changed but you would really have to compare the two diagrams to be sure. 

The stator coil should read no more then 0.63 on any of the legs.  The voltage seems low also. Also the pick up coil gap to the magnet have you checked the gap? 

When you checked the secondary coil did you check it with the spark plug wire on or off the coil? And have you tested the spark plug wire as well? 

The kill switch you tested for ohms... did you check that you have and opened and closed circuit (continuity) on the switch and that it’s not making partial connectivity and not fully opening? The switch could be bad or corroded inside.  All the components inside are made of brass or copper which are all subject to corrosion/oxidation.  

Im going to look at the manual and see if anything stands out and try to help you out a bit.   I’m sure someone on the site has had this problem and will chime in as well.  

 

Posted

Thanks again Frank:  Thought I was capable on checking the coils, but still not working, so NOT sure .  lol.  You asked about the stator:  Assuming you mean the 3 white wires that go to the voltage regulator, measured the resistance between the winding, all within spec.  Measured between windings and ground  OL ( not shorting out)  cranked engine over and got about 7 vac on all three legs (1-2, 2-3 and 1-3) which agreed pretty much as my friends 98 Grizzly.  Checked resistance on the source/exciter coil (Brown to Green) 310 Ohms and about 60 vac when cranking engine.  On the pulse/pickup coil (red to white)  480 Ohms but only about 0.3 vac.  Know this is a pulse voltage so won't be very high, but was about 2 vac on buddy's '98.  Obviously checked out the run/stop and the ignition switch to black/white wire on the CDI.  With both switched in Run - had OL,, if either in OFF went to about 1 Ohm.  Also checked out the ignition coil and within spec both primary and secondary.  Changed out spark plug with a new one from NAPA.  To best of my knowledge/ability checked out wirings for open/shorts to ground and didn't find any problems.  One difference I can't explain the 2000 with turnover with the starter with the CDI disconnected, the '98 will not until hookup the CDI.  They have different CDI numbers 5gt-00  but when put the 00 in the 98 with worked,  when put the one from the 98 (that worked) into the 00 Nothing.  Thanks for all your help.

Posted

Thanks again: The stator resistance didn't surprise me at about 1 Ohm (counting the lead resistance of the meter).  The voltage at cranking @ 7 v, sure would be higher if running at higher rpm.  How do you check the pickup gap?  Seems like no adjustment and can't get to it to measure with the cover in place (where the pickup coil is located)

Posted

Sorry I thought you had the engine apart.  There is a gap that you are more then aware of based on the responses you’ve given. You seem knowledgeable.   That gap may have changed from any number of reasons. One being something in the engine that let loose. Small piece of something inside the engine maybe ? Anything’s possable.  I think the swapping of he cdi if yours was bad would have fired up even with the years in difference  as long as the plugs matched.  

How about the kill switch testing for continuity? 

Sorry for the repetitive questions, I’ve missed things in the past. Just want to make sure before you go ripping into the engine. Or get deeply involved if it’s something right in front of your face. 

 

Posted

Thanks again for the quick response Frank:  Don't think an;ything in the engine let loose.  Definitely nothing in the area of the stator.  Checked out Kill switch and cleaned.  With in Off have about 1 ohm to ground, in Run  OL all the way to the CDI.  Never have ripped into the engine, and probably won't until spring.,  Getting too cold for these old bones.  Plugs matched on the 989 and 00 CDIs.  Is the thing on the outside of the flywheel/rotor a magnet?  If so, maybe the problem doesn't seem to have any magnetism in it.
 

  • 2 years later...
Posted
On 12/15/2018 at 6:56 AM, Admin said:

Topic title changed to include full ATV info and issue: 2000 Yamaha Grizzly YFM600FWA No Spark Swap CDI

 Will the cdi unit for CDI Box For Yamaha Kodiak 400 YFM400 2001 2002 Warrior 350 YFM350X 1997-2001 work on a 98 grizzly ? I REFUSE TO PAY $200 FOR A USED ONE.

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By quadcrazy
      What is your take on ATV Insurance? Do you have ATV Insurance? If so, through which company and why?
      We'd like to hear our member's opinions on ATV Insurance. Please vote on the poll.
    • By hengstserepair
      Howdy ya'll. I am working ona 2000 Yamaha Breeze 125. It was in rought shape when I received it and I am working through issues as they pop up. The quad had been sitting for years. I was able to get her running again, but I need your help with the following issue:
      I don't trust the transmission yet and I don't want to make problems any worse. So, I haven't pushed things hard at all. Low rpms, less than 5mph in reverse.

      Nuetral: Runs as expected
      Reverse: She seems to be driving fine at slow speeds. Going into reverse at idle is fine, coming out of reverse back into neutral won't work (the shifter is just stuck). As soon as I turn off the quad, I am able to shift around without any issue.
      Forward: It slips. It seems to only transfer power to the wheels on a smooth surface and going slightly downhill. When shifting into forward at idle, there is a clacking sounds during the transition. Shifting back to nuetral works just fine.

      Other Notable Symptoms: There was old oil in the vbelt and when I was tuning the carb, it starting blowing out of the CVT cooling vent at the front of the quad. Made quite a mess. There is positive crankcase pressure due to piston blowby, that I have not decided whether or not I am going to fix (customer budget dependant).  Since the oil was old, much darker than the new oil that is in the crankcase, I am thinking it seeped past a bad seal while it was sitting for years. The oil that was in it when I first got it had gas in it.

      Thoughts: I am thinking maybe there is an issue with the clutch. I worry about the old oil intermingling with the dry centrifugal clutch. I was thinking my next step would be to take the cover off of the clutch and inspect it.

      Let me know what you all think. Any advice and ideas is greatly appreciated. This is only the 3rd quad I have worked on and I have a lot to learn.

      Lorne
    • By Rockbottom
      2008 400 big bear was running now will not start
      have power to relay, in neutral, press start have power to starter but nothing happens starter does not turn
      i have good ground at battery to frame and added ground from wire harness to frame beside batter/ frame ground
      blue white wire to cdi has power with key on
      I believe the neutral lock out is working since is was before i shut it down
      if i put  it in gear and hit the start button with key on the relay does not click or send power the starter
      The 3 wires at the relay have power with key on
      What should i test next?
      thanks ahead
    • By Mister907
      Hi guys, I have a 2004 big bear 400. Last winter while plowing the driveway, I heard a loud pop from the left side of the engine. It continued to run as I looked for leaky fluid, but then died shortly after backing it up and won’t start now. The oil light comes on when I try to start it, no noise or anything else. 
      No blown fuses that I can find.
    • By jeffinotown
      Hey guys and gals. I've been working on my friends 2007 big bear IRS. Unfortunately after 3 different people got their hands on it and only made things worse every time.  After months of finding just crazy problems everywhere. I'm finally at the point we're its almost 100% !!! But I'm getting a short somewhere between the 4xW switch I believe. I managed to by searching the internet like a  fiend, got my hands on an official Yamaha wire harness for the year and make. But I don't have the numbered component list and to be honest. After hours of going through and making everything so it's  easy to reference. If anyone has a picture of the referenced components. I would be forever in your debt. I've spent hours marking up the blown up diagram so it will be easy, for any possible future repairs. Please and thank you. Here's a picture of what i have so far.  Unsealed it in plastic so oil and crap won't spill or get smudged. This damn things worth it's weight in gold.              Thanks Jeff                2007 Yamaha big bear 400 IRS.       YFM40FBW
×
×
  • Create New...