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I just bought a Sunl 2007 250 2x4 ATV and am going change oil in motor and rear end, any recommendations for products and instructions, as I have no owners manual. Oil is probably pretty simple and am guessing rear end is pump out and refill. Some specs would be nice to amounts of fluids.
By tom reed
May be some of you guys can help me, I've got a 1990 honda four trax 2 wheel drive, the top end has been completely rebuilt. When I bought it barely ran, so I had everything redone BUT, it shifts good until the motor gets up to running temp and it starts getting hard to shift and the longer you run it the worse it gets, it will get so bad that it is almost impossible to get it into reverse. Does anyone know what wrong?
By Wolds Alpacas
Hello all. I have just stripped down the carb on my YFM225 as it is not running right.
I put it in the ultrasonic cleaner for half an hour and it has done a good job.
Nice clean jets but when I go full throttle it backfires, and there is a lack of power.
It also does not seem to take fuel in properly - it comes out the petcock ok so it is running freely enough, but it is not drawing into the carb.
If anyone has any ideas I would be very grateful.
Following on from the brief interlude in the "introducing myself" thread....
In a nutshell, I acquired a YFM250 Moto 4 (1991) for cheap recently with the previous owner citing "no spark, needs a new magneto coil and I don't have time to fix it"... anyway I am dubious that the magneto/generator is the issue and thinking more along the line of ignition coil as after a clean up of the magneto I was able to get a rather decent voltage reading off the magneto with pull start and resistence readings seem to check out that the magneto is all ok (all 3 x phases = 1.2 ohms and no run to ground)
None the less I ordered a new Ignition coil and Magneto/generator coil and am waiting for them to arrive.
In the mean time I cleaned up the current Magneto, popped in a new battery and sparkplug, checked out all the wiring harness, all seemed good except I came across the "neutral switch" wire was broken.
After wiring up a new neutral switch wire, the neutral light now comes on (small win) and the starter relay (attached to rectifier) now clicks. If I hit the starter switch on handle bar the starter motor spins and if I pull the cord starter I get a spark on pull....YAY!! I'll try and attach a video below if possible.
So onto the starter motor. Starter solenoid seems to work A-ok, even if it looks crappy and starter motor spins as it should when I hit the start switch....but here is my issue.
When the starter motor runs it turns Cog #1 and Cog #2 (see photo below)....but the chain in the back of the starter which I assume is the timing chain, does not move and there is no apparent movement of the piston in the cylinder.
If I turn it by hand (per photo) or with the pull starter however the chain moves and the engine turns. However cog #2 rotates but not fluidly with the "Crank" (part I turn by hand) for the lack of a better word to use if that makes sense?
Is there a grub screw or similar on Cog #2 that fixes it to the center shaft to make it all turn when the starter motor is run? Could there be a part missing? Previous owner had the starter apart so could be possible?
The outer/front part seems to be on a key-way so not sure how to remove this easily to check how Cog #2 is attached.
What am I missing here?
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