Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Kris Weix

2012 ac fuel pump

Recommended Posts

Went to start my 2012 arctic cat 550 today and it will not turn on the fuel pump or crank starter it has a good battery in it can anyone help 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Have you checked the main fuse by starter relay and try to wiggle the ignition switch a little.  Some times they act up.  

 Any dash lights, headlights ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok well as long as you have dash lights. It’s something holding the start circuit out. Is the bike in neutral and start checking all the safeties as well as the starter circuit.  Put a voltage tester on the battery and hit the start button.  If the voltage drops the starter may be jammed or bad.  You can also put a tester on the starter wire and see if the starter get voltage when you press the start button.  Do you hear any clicks coming from the starter relay under the seat ? Or any place else on the bike when you press the starter? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check the kill switch, left handlebar, red switch,  that would prevent the fuel pump from pressurizing.

Check ignition fuse (IGN on the fuse block) it could have popped and you would still have dash and headlights, but the pump won't pressurize.

On these machines, the start circuit would only prevent the starter from engaging, the fuel pump will still pressurize. Arctic cat machines allow you to start the machine in gear only if the brake is engaged. There is a relay called "start in gear" but I don't think this is his problem.  It is either the kill switch or something in the IGN circuit.

Since this is an EFI machine, battery condition is very important, battery may appear to be OK, but only a load test could verify that.

 

Mike

 

Edited by mikeexplorer
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Brock Kincaid
      Ok so just picked up an 02 ds 650 and the guy said he couldn't get it to start. He had a shop put new shims in it and I had them checked and they were ok now things I've done is new plugs even though guy had just put new plugs in it.. got new carb 42mm just like the one that was on it.. bought new intake manifold because the one that was on it someone got way to tweaked out and ported the shit out of it excuse my language but yeah so installed new intake manifold and it just won't start like its not getting enough fuel.  Timing seems to be right it does fire every now and again but just barely.. did a compression test today and it was at 90psi.. i know thats low but don't know where I'm losing compression.. valves we at .06 and .07 when checked im lost ive tried everything I know and can't figure it out
    • By Chris Cowell
      Hey fellas. So I have a 2012 yfz450r. I work on the road for a living and went to a job and let a friend of mine borrow my wheeler while I was gone. Well, we know how that all turns out. I come home and it’s not running. Swears up and down he just went out to start it one day and wouldn’t start. Well, I start fooling with it and figure out the fuel pump is bad. I replaced the pump a couple days ago and brand new battery. When I go to start it, the engine light blinks every time I hit the start button. So, I decided to try and pull start it. It’ll turn over strong and half-ass run until I pull in the clutch and dies. Then the fuel light came on. I can hear the pump turning on and doing it’s job. Now, when I turn on the key the fuel light stays on, and same deal with engine light blinking every time I hit the start button. Can anyone help me out at all? This has been a NIGHTMARE. Super appreciative for any help. Thanks. 
    • By BuckBilly
      Good morning to all !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
      Let's see if we can make this a daily event.
    • By Brent Wright
      What's a good size to start a 10 year old on?
    • By chadh
      I have had this ATV since new, and no work done on the system before. It has an intermittent issue with starting for years but getting worse. Cranks but no start or have to cycle power. No Codes. There are times it starts right up and then times it will not start at all.
      What I have done, new plug, new battery, new coil. Also, the manual I have has spec info for the H1 & H2, but when I check ohms & AC voltage & wire color, it is more in line with the H2 than H1.  
      Ok here is what I have done.
      1. new plug then new battery.
      2. checked and replaced the coil- primary was 5ohms and secondary was 20.4K ohms. Since my book said for the H1 the Primary should be less than 1ohm I replaced (new one had the same 5ohms, confused! H2 says 4.8ohms). Book says secondary should be 12k-20k ohms and it was 20K ohms. New coil did not correct the issue.
      3. Stator, AC output while running was good, about 75 volts AC no load between the three yellow wires (but mine are gray wires like the H2). Ohms were also less than 1 ohm.
      4. Crankshaft position Sensor. Again, H1 should have Blue & White but I have Blue & Green like the H2. I have 180 ohms across the Blue & Green wires, so this is good. But when cranking I have 2 volts AC. For the H1 book says 5 volts AC. But H2 says 2 volts AC.
      So, is my position sensor putting out low voltage or do I have the stator assy for an H2 in my H1 ATV from new?  Stator & position sensor are one assy. Has this ever been an issue that was noted? New Stator is $$$ so I don’t want to just shotgun a part. 
      Any help would be great!
      Thanks
      Chad
       



  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...