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I have a 2011 850 Sportsman. Has been absolutely trouble free except for 1 thing. I am on my 4th. ignition switch. I don't know if it's that they are all chinese junk or what. It gets to a point when you turn the key and it will act like the battery is going bad. Cranks real slow or not at all. Put a new switch in and its fine. New one will last 1 1/2 - 2 years and its junk. I've had the Polaris brand and after market. As a matter of fact the original one lasted the lest amount of time. Other than that it's been a perfect machine . No electrical problems. No battery problems. Just curious if anyone else has had the same issue.
By Dra O
I likely just kissed $200 goodbye buying a Honda 250 this AM from Craiglist. We'll see.
- VIN number is off the front frame; one VIN site calls it a 2008 Honda 250 TRX - this baby ain't a 2008; other VIN sites list the VIN as invalid; might be that the owner (a shady dude from a shadier side of my home town) put a 2008 front end on it? No idea.
- a HUGE hint (hint #1) would've been that there's no key to start the machine - gotta use a screwdriver. I'll likely be visited by police sometime in the near future.
- owner acquired from another man - owner showed me video of him riding it this summer on a major interstate while very drunk (hint #2) - the machine sounded good in the video
- no front headlight; owner said machine has new carb - looks Chinese - he didn't have original carb; air intake box is wide open - no long plastic connection sleeve leading into air box like on my 99 king quad; no visible oil leaks; oil is dark; air filter clean; decent plastic; no front right brake apparatus; left brake handle very loose and rear brake doesn't work
- battery at this point is good; manipulate the ignition switch w/ screw driver and the green neutral light shines (this has since stopped working)
- it's a kick start machine: when I kicked it down (hint #3), the compression sounded normal, almost "tight" but at the end of the cycle, there was some awful grinding noise coming from what sounded like either inside the engine or the starter area; I let it settle, kicked it again, same noise heard at the end of cycle; owner said it likely needs a new starter - I only hope it's this simple
pictures attached - the throttle cable / zip tie pic is my favorite - but it works! it was CRAZY dirty prior to pressure washing - and the water in air box is likely secondary to the power wash - no water was in it when purchased
gotta few things to complete on the king quad - will be changing motor/gear oil in honda and getting new oil filter over time - talk soon - hope y'all had a great Christmas
By Dwight Williams
I have a 99 Kodiak 400 4X4 that I picked up for $300. The previous owner had modified the foot shifter by welding a piece of rebar to it so he could hand shift while plowing. As you can imagine, the allows for much more torque on the shifter than it was designed to have, and he broke the stopper off of the the shift mechanism. No big deal, I ordered the part and put it back together, went through the carburetor and off we go, it runs pretty good.
The first thing I noticed is that when I put the shifter all the way down it goes into reverse, I'm supposed to twist a knob to get it to reverse but this seems to be disabled. Also, once in reverse, it's a bugger to get back out. I have to hold the shifter up, then quickly back down and up again to get it to come out. All forward gears work fine, clutch is tight, no problems.
The reverse cable and lever are in tact and seem to move freely.
My question is this: What does one normally have to do to get this thing into reverse? I assume put it in neutral, twist the knob, kick the shifter down. Does the brake need to be applied? I'm not sure what's going on here, I suspect it's been 'modified' as it goes into reverse without the proper precautions, just not sure if the mods were external on internal.
When it is cold outside, say 35 deg F and colder, it is very difficult to shift to Reverse from neutral. Engine temp doesn't have an effect. I apply the brakes hard with the hand lever and the foot pedal. In another post I read that high idle can affect shifting when the engine temp is warm.
I will try it with lower idle speed once I find the screw. In the interim, can you tell me if there is some sort of adjustment for the shifter?
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By Chris Chitwood
Hi, I’m a 16 year old that is wanting to get more into vehicle and mechanic repair. My dad has an old ‘96 Timberwolf that he doesn’t remember running since I was born. I want to get it running again as a memory for him and to help us be able to hunt together, and of course so I can learn how engines work more than the little information I know now. I’ve pulled the carburetor and gas tank off of it, and the carburetor is getting cleaned by a friend. I can post photos of the condition it’s in later, I’m just curious where I should start in my journey to get it running again. The power switch is broken off of the handlebar, so I am looking into fixing it, along with the pull cord. I’m afraid the engine is seized up, and I’m curious to hear any input anyone has. Thank you all.
By Dana Hudson
Hey everyone, hoping to get some help here... my kids 03 KTF 50 Quad has always ran great... they were riding it a couple of hours a few days ago and it died a couple of times (not normal) but started right back up. A few days later my 5 year old wanted to take it for a spin so I started it (2 pulls) and he took off.. he made it a couple hundred yards and it died and we havnt been able to start it since. I have new gas, good spark and 120 psi compression.. it will not start with starter fluid in the intake or even in the cylinder.. the fuel bowl has fuel at the carb... what am I missing? It’s driving me crazy!!
By Mark Walters
Hi guys. First post, hope you can help. As above 1991 Honda fourtrax. Starting, running fine until a few weeks ago. Used primarily to put my ski boat in the garage (put 2" ball on front). Any way, had just backed boat into garage, turned off to crank trailer wheel down, when I went to restart got nothing.
No neutral light, no headlights, no reverse light, would not turn over when start button pushed. It would crank and run when I jumped the contacts on the start relay. While running the neutral light will come on, although it is dim and flickers. Reverse light on when running and in reverse.
What I have done to this point:
1. Used jumper cable to ground battery (-) terminal to engine block thinking ground wire from battery to engine may be bad. No neutral light, no start.
2. Applied 12 volts to start relay. Got a loud click like it was making contact. I didn't have the battery/starter cables connected to the relay, but I am assuming it would have cranked at that time.
3. Disconnected neutral switch wire. Grounded neutral switch wire with jumper wire. No neutral light, no electric start.
At this point I am thinking ignition switch vs broken wire in the harness going to the neutral switch (due to dimness and flickering when running).
Any and all suggestions to help track down this issue are appreciated.
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