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Here is what I have collected over the years and maybe it will help someone else.
There are so many and several are too large to upload as attachments, so see any thing you need just shoot me a PM and your email and I will get them on the way to you as fast as I can.
50cc to150cc Service Manual For Tank Motorsports.pdf
1986 CH250 ELITE SERVICE MANUAL.pdf
Charging and ignition systems for atvs.pdf
Chinese ATV Frame Diagram.jpg
Chinese ATV Repair Shop Manual - Clutch Diagram - Exploded Views.jpg
Chinese ATV Repair Shop Manual - Cylinder Head Diagrams.jpg
Chinese ATV Repair Shop Manual - Torque Specifications.jpg
Chinese ATV Repair Shop Manual - Valve Clearances.jpg
Eagle ATV Fender Body Parts Exploded Diagram.jpg
Eagle ATV Rear Axle - Exploded Diagram.jpg
Piston Ring Installation 4 Stroke Engines.jpg
Trouble Shooter Guide for BATTERY DRAINED Chinese Engines.txt
Trouble Shooter Guide for NO-COMPRESSION.txt
Trouble Shooting No Crank.txt
50 to 150cc GY6 Shop Manual.pdf
Arrow 150 Engine Service Manual.pdf
Eton Shop Manual YXT-150.pdf
GY6 Shop Manual.pdf
Yerf Dog Spiderbox GX150 Service Manual.pdf
By My kiwi shed
Currently have a 2004 King quad 300 4wd.
There's a few parts I need to get 4wd working again and also have a crack in the engine crankcase(big trucking rock).
Replacement engines are horribly expensive so looking for a half decent site to buy parts /kits that also have detailed diagrams and part numbers.
Going to disassemble weld crack and give the engine a freshen up.
Any recommendations please
By Frank Angerano
Not sure how many of you will remember this or give a crap about it but back in 2016 I picked up my first old atv to rebuild. Yamaha bear tracker 250. I picked it up in NJ while I was out looking for a quad for my little guy since he started this atv thing after seeing a few old pictures of me in my hay day riding.
The person I was getting the 50cc quad had this one laying around and asked if I was interested in it. It was beat up and hadn’t ran in a few years. No spark the guy said and he left it to sit. I wound up taking both bikes.
I wish I had pics but I deleted the original post on Quadcrazy and lost the old ones on my phone when I upgraded.
This was the atv that caused me to stumble upon Quadcrazy since I needed a little help with the spark issue. So needless to say I fixed it, did some cosmetic work and she was good to go. I took it upstate and used the shit out of it for just about everything under the sun. This atv made it through some deep snow, mud etc. I decided to leave it up there and use it as a back up since it’s been about 50 atv’s later and I have newer machines now. But unfortunately it sat for some time and it’s a little beat up so I brought it back home and going to clean it up. Amazing how one year sitting has done so much damage.
This was the first atv that I owned in over 30 years! It’s the atv that brought me here to Quadcrazy where now I endlessly check the site to see what’s going on, who’s talking about what and who can we help with there problem or can help me with mine as well as the on slot of what I do today as a hobby with atv’s. It’s been a great pass time for me and my son with the projects we have gotten and get into. He’s learned how to ride so well it scares me a little watching him. He’s learned how to fix, maintain and upgrade atv’s. He’s insanely good with carburetors as well.
It’s a good thing when a kid wants to play in the garage over his X Box!!
The funny thing about this bike is that when we finished it we thought it was the best thing! We were missing a rack on the front and didn’t care since it looked ok, had no clue where to get parts or how to fix plastics. I was so new to this again since I was staring all over again and now had to remember things and also teach my son!
So we will be tearing into the bear tracker to get her up and running again as well as maybe a few new cosmetic changes and hang on to her for a while since I love this bike. The last two pics are the bike the day we finished putting it all back together and when it was upstate for the first week.
Had no intention of this post going so long. 🤷🏻♂️
By Frank Angerano
I’ve decided to post a thread on the process of cleaning a carburetor and what’s needed in order to do it properly. There are some members that are new to this and are not very versed in doing so. I want to help and feel this might explain things better. I would hope this helps you along. We all have our own little tricks of the trade so I’m sharing my process on how i break a carburetor down, clean, reassemble and adjust it to peak performance. I welcome any other members input on this topic. List of things I use: Safety glasses !!! Rags. I like to use old white Tee shirts or I buy and always have a few white pillow cases from the dollar store on hand. The cheap ones. I like to use a frisbee turned upside down like a bowl to keep the liquids to a minimum on spillage to the work bench. A set of cleaning picks and brushes or a piece of bicycle break cable, I separate the strands and use them to clean out the tiny holes in the jets. (Pic attached) A can of gum out carburetor cleaner with the small red tube that attaches to the spray tip. (Pic attached) A can of compressed air, the kind used to clean out keyboards on computers. It also has the small red tube that attaches to the spray tip. Or a compressor if you have one with a blow out tip. (Pic attached) A piece of clean hose that I can connect to the fuel line port on the carburetor to test the float operation. About 10 inches long. A few Q tips. The process: I like to put the pillow case down on the work bench and spread it out flat. This really helps in being able to keep track of parts. Especially because it’s white. I use the frisbee because it’s small enough to keep parts contained and durable enough to deal with the chemicals and any gas that will come out of the carburetor while opening it up. It’s important to make sure you keep track of where everything came off and where the screws and parts all go back. I like to start at the bottom and pull the bowl off. I immediately spray the inside of the bowl down with carb cleaner until its about half way full and set it aside. Then I take the float out and check it for any fluid inside. If it’s a white color float you can hold a flashlight under it and see through it for any fluid inside. If it black just shake it up and listen for fluid inside. No fluid inside is a good thing ! When the float comes out the fill valve needle will come with it. I take that needle and put it in the carburetor bowl that I filled with carburetor cleaner. This way it soaks for a bit. I do the same thing with the jets also once they are unscrewed and out toss them into the bowl to soak. Take the air/fuel mixture screw out and soak that as well. Side note: the air/fuel screw should have a screw, spring, washer and o ring. After all the jets and parts are out and soaking I like to take the carburetor cleaner, use the small red tube and stick it in all the little holes/ports on the carburetor and spray. I do this while it’s in the frisbee. This way there is no mess. I look to see where the spray pressure comes out on the other side of that port. Once this is all done I start running my brushes and cleaning tips gently through all of the holes/ports and spraying it again with the carb cleaner. After I feel I’ve seen a clear flow of fluid through all the openings I spray them with the can of air the exact way I did with the carburetor cleaner. This will blow out any left over junk that’s still in the carburetor. Check the choke operation is working properly and spray it clean. Most choke devices are easily cleaned up so hit it and move on since they are mechanical and it’s just a matter of freeing them up, spraying with cleaner and lube. There are multiple types of chokes but many of them for the most part are mechanically operated. Once this is completed I wipe the entire carburetor down good and blow it clean and set aside. I then start working on the jets one by one. Start by running the cleaning tips and brushes through all the tiny holes making sure they are all clean. Hit it with the carburetor cleaner and then air. I hold a flashlight to it when it’s done so I can make sure all of the holes are clear. I set all the jets aside on the work area. Do the same thing for the float needle and air/fuel screw. Now once this is all complete you can set the frisbee aside and start to reassemble the carburetor on the clean white surface. I start by running a Q tip in where the fill needle sits into the carburetor. Some carbs have a small o ring that needs to be clean for proper seating of the fill needle. Carefully reinstall the jets where they came from and do not strip or over tighten the jets and use the proper size screwdrivers when removing and reinstalling the jets. Reinstall the air/fuel mixture screw and set it to what’s called out in the manual for that bike. Install the float and fill needle assembly. Now in order to test that float I like to take that piece of hose I mentioned and connect it to where the fuel line gets connected to the carburetor. I then turn the carburetor over to the upright position and blow into the hose. You should hear air coming out of the bottom of the carburetor. While blowing, lift the float up and the air should stop. Let it go and the float should fall down opening the fill valve and you should hear air again. The air should stop about 3/4 way up when raising that float while your blowing air into it. If so then your good to go. If not make an adjustment Set the carburetor down, take the bowl and empty it. Clean it out and scrape/wipe any old junk inside and blow it out good. There is a screw on the outside of the bottom of the bowl. Remove it and clean it out and reinstall. Turn the carburetor over and reinstall the bowl. Tighten the screws in a crisscross pattern so the bowl seats evenly. I like to put the hose on one more time and do a float test to make sure it’s opening and closing properly. All you have to do is blow into the hose and run the carburetor upside down to see if the air stops. Reinstall the carb and you should be good to go! All pics of the items I use are attached below. If you understand this great. If not ask away! Don’t be shy and don’t cut corners. You will only wind up pulling the carburetor off of the bike for the third and forth time before you get it right. The last thing to be discussed is dialing in the air/fuel screw when your finally put back together and running. This is a relatively easy task. Again I hope this helps! Frank.
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