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So yesterday I picked up a 07 polaris sportsman 800efi stealth edition for 3k. Will lead a pic ltr. In good shape. Here's what's wrong with it:
The rpm needle doesn't work just like my other sportsman... not too worried ab that.
The motor doesn't sound like it's running quite right and doesn't feel like it has much more power than my 500. I'm thinking it needs a tune up and some fresh oil.. but also it feels like it's running rich. It's a little buggy when you goose the throttle and sometimes farts when you let off (like I little backfire out the exhuast). I'm gonna check timing and valave clearence on the motor first but thinking of putting a tuner on it? Anybody got a suggestion? Mainly looking for more power.
Here is what I have collected over the years and maybe it will help someone else.
There are so many and several are too large to upload as attachments, so see any thing you need just shoot me a PM and your email and I will get them on the way to you as fast as I can.
50cc to150cc Service Manual For Tank Motorsports.pdf
1986 CH250 ELITE SERVICE MANUAL.pdf
Charging and ignition systems for atvs.pdf
Chinese ATV Frame Diagram.jpg
Chinese ATV Repair Shop Manual - Clutch Diagram - Exploded Views.jpg
Chinese ATV Repair Shop Manual - Cylinder Head Diagrams.jpg
Chinese ATV Repair Shop Manual - Torque Specifications.jpg
Chinese ATV Repair Shop Manual - Valve Clearances.jpg
Eagle ATV Fender Body Parts Exploded Diagram.jpg
Eagle ATV Rear Axle - Exploded Diagram.jpg
Piston Ring Installation 4 Stroke Engines.jpg
Trouble Shooter Guide for BATTERY DRAINED Chinese Engines.txt
Trouble Shooter Guide for NO-COMPRESSION.txt
Trouble Shooting No Crank.txt
50 to 150cc GY6 Shop Manual.pdf
Arrow 150 Engine Service Manual.pdf
Eton Shop Manual YXT-150.pdf
GY6 Shop Manual.pdf
Yerf Dog Spiderbox GX150 Service Manual.pdf
By Frank Angerano
Hello everyone, back from a crazy few months of riding, hunting and fishing! So I’ve added a storage bag to one of my bikes and loaded it up pretty good before we went out into the woods/trails etc. My son questioned me and said what do we need all that junk for? I told him you never know maybe a flat tire water etc.
Needless to say that junk came in handy. So my question to everyone that hits the trails is what do you have or recommend to maybe take with you before you go? And what would be the one most important thing that’s a must have?
And also any recommendations on a storage bag that’s not so costly and performs the best? I like my bag but not very good .
By Frank Angerano
I’ve decided to post a thread on the process of cleaning a carburetor and what’s needed in order to do it properly. There are some members that are new to this and are not very versed in doing so. I want to help and feel this might explain things better. I would hope this helps you along. We all have our own little tricks of the trade so I’m sharing my process on how i break a carburetor down, clean, reassemble and adjust it to peak performance. I welcome any other members input on this topic. List of things I use: Safety glasses !!! Rags. I like to use old white Tee shirts or I buy and always have a few white pillow cases from the dollar store on hand. The cheap ones. I like to use a frisbee turned upside down like a bowl to keep the liquids to a minimum on spillage to the work bench. A set of cleaning picks and brushes or a piece of bicycle break cable, I separate the strands and use them to clean out the tiny holes in the jets. (Pic attached) A can of gum out carburetor cleaner with the small red tube that attaches to the spray tip. (Pic attached) A can of compressed air, the kind used to clean out keyboards on computers. It also has the small red tube that attaches to the spray tip. Or a compressor if you have one with a blow out tip. (Pic attached) A piece of clean hose that I can connect to the fuel line port on the carburetor to test the float operation. About 10 inches long. A few Q tips. The process: I like to put the pillow case down on the work bench and spread it out flat. This really helps in being able to keep track of parts. Especially because it’s white. I use the frisbee because it’s small enough to keep parts contained and durable enough to deal with the chemicals and any gas that will come out of the carburetor while opening it up. It’s important to make sure you keep track of where everything came off and where the screws and parts all go back. I like to start at the bottom and pull the bowl off. I immediately spray the inside of the bowl down with carb cleaner until its about half way full and set it aside. Then I take the float out and check it for any fluid inside. If it’s a white color float you can hold a flashlight under it and see through it for any fluid inside. If it black just shake it up and listen for fluid inside. No fluid inside is a good thing ! When the float comes out the fill valve needle will come with it. I take that needle and put it in the carburetor bowl that I filled with carburetor cleaner. This way it soaks for a bit. I do the same thing with the jets also once they are unscrewed and out toss them into the bowl to soak. Take the air/fuel mixture screw out and soak that as well. Side note: the air/fuel screw should have a screw, spring, washer and o ring. After all the jets and parts are out and soaking I like to take the carburetor cleaner, use the small red tube and stick it in all the little holes/ports on the carburetor and spray. I do this while it’s in the frisbee. This way there is no mess. I look to see where the spray pressure comes out on the other side of that port. Once this is all done I start running my brushes and cleaning tips gently through all of the holes/ports and spraying it again with the carb cleaner. After I feel I’ve seen a clear flow of fluid through all the openings I spray them with the can of air the exact way I did with the carburetor cleaner. This will blow out any left over junk that’s still in the carburetor. Check the choke operation is working properly and spray it clean. Most choke devices are easily cleaned up so hit it and move on since they are mechanical and it’s just a matter of freeing them up, spraying with cleaner and lube. There are multiple types of chokes but many of them for the most part are mechanically operated. Once this is completed I wipe the entire carburetor down good and blow it clean and set aside. I then start working on the jets one by one. Start by running the cleaning tips and brushes through all the tiny holes making sure they are all clean. Hit it with the carburetor cleaner and then air. I hold a flashlight to it when it’s done so I can make sure all of the holes are clear. I set all the jets aside on the work area. Do the same thing for the float needle and air/fuel screw. Now once this is all complete you can set the frisbee aside and start to reassemble the carburetor on the clean white surface. I start by running a Q tip in where the fill needle sits into the carburetor. Some carbs have a small o ring that needs to be clean for proper seating of the fill needle. Carefully reinstall the jets where they came from and do not strip or over tighten the jets and use the proper size screwdrivers when removing and reinstalling the jets. Reinstall the air/fuel mixture screw and set it to what’s called out in the manual for that bike. Install the float and fill needle assembly. Now in order to test that float I like to take that piece of hose I mentioned and connect it to where the fuel line gets connected to the carburetor. I then turn the carburetor over to the upright position and blow into the hose. You should hear air coming out of the bottom of the carburetor. While blowing, lift the float up and the air should stop. Let it go and the float should fall down opening the fill valve and you should hear air again. The air should stop about 3/4 way up when raising that float while your blowing air into it. If so then your good to go. If not make an adjustment Set the carburetor down, take the bowl and empty it. Clean it out and scrape/wipe any old junk inside and blow it out good. There is a screw on the outside of the bottom of the bowl. Remove it and clean it out and reinstall. Turn the carburetor over and reinstall the bowl. Tighten the screws in a crisscross pattern so the bowl seats evenly. I like to put the hose on one more time and do a float test to make sure it’s opening and closing properly. All you have to do is blow into the hose and run the carburetor upside down to see if the air stops. Reinstall the carb and you should be good to go! All pics of the items I use are attached below. If you understand this great. If not ask away! Don’t be shy and don’t cut corners. You will only wind up pulling the carburetor off of the bike for the third and forth time before you get it right. The last thing to be discussed is dialing in the air/fuel screw when your finally put back together and running. This is a relatively easy task. Again I hope this helps! Frank.
I've got a Polaris and a Honda that I use regularly on my ranch so they see a lot of abuse. Fortunately, there is still a Honda dealer nearby but the nearest Polaris dealer is over 1.5 hours away. They charge way too much money ($1800 for battery, alternator, wire harness and fluids change) so I am starting to learn how to do my own repairs. The Internet is a wonderful and scary place when it comes to shopping. Where can I go for a fair deal? Is there a list of preferred vendors that advertise on the forum?
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