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i am sure some one has switched from the dinky battery to a larger car car battery, so any advice? ive got enough bits and bobs on my atv that i feel i need to step up, i keep a float charger on it but i left it unplugged for about a week and it was dead and it a fairly new battery from advance auto, im probably gonna add a cb radio in the future and i think the only thin that has a constant draw is the clock in the dash and the memory for the stereo
2012 cf moto x5 500 lwb
Friday evening went riding, rode for a good hour or so everything was fine. I went to take a short ride to the restroom (less than 100 yds away) and all of the sudden everything flickered and then just died out. Accompanying the problem I noticed the killswitch completely locked up. Once daylight hit took the killswitch apart to find it had shorted out and melted the plastic inside. Has anyone else had anything similar to this and if so what did you do to fix the situation? I have a new killswitch on the way to replace the obvious problem but was wondering could there be a bigger issue at hand. We tested with a voltage meter to make sure everything was still getting power from the battery and as far as we could tell it was.
Any advice/info would be GREATLY appreciated.
Hi all, new to this forum so thanks in advance for the help.
I have recently brought a 2013 power steering fuel injected foreman 500.
It has a crack in the front casing and was running rough. I have since replaced the front engine casing and this has made no difference to the engine performance.
It starts and idles but bogs down and starts to die once throttle is applied.
It maybe be but it also sounds very load.
I have uploaded a video link of it.
I’m working on a Kawasaki Bayou KLF400 for a family member that doesn’t have spark. I’ve already replace the ignition switch and the stator which were defective. The stator had a melted connector and one of the phase had low resistance and low VAC output.
What I’ve figured out so far is that I’m not getting 12V to the ignition coil when I turn the key to the ON position. From what I understand, the 12V should come from the CDI. I’ve resistance tested both wires going from the CDI to the ignition coil (Green/white and black/yellow). They are fine. The only 12V coming from the ECU is on the yellow/red wire.
I don’t have the wiring diagram for the 400 but I’m working with the one for the Bayou 300 which looks pretty similar except for the wire color between the CDI and ignition coil. On the 300 diagram, the yellow/red wire goes to the ignition coil, not the black/yellow… All the other wires color match except for this one. Not sure if that’s normal?
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