Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm working on a 95 300 kingquad and wondering about the aftermarket carbs. There sure is a price spread -is the OEM recommended or is 'cheap' ok.Off shore are way cheaper but is the quality that bad

Thoughts

IMG_20190510_135053.jpg

Posted

The cheaper carbs look, fit, and will work to get the bike running.  The minute you take off and ride  the bike starts to sputter and break down.  You will spend hours trying to dial it in with very frustrating results.  

Not worth the aggravation. 

What’s wrong with the OEM carb? It looks like it’s all there.   Take it apart and rebuild it.  

Posted

if you replace the valve seals, I would recommend new valves as well as the old ones sometimes have a hard time re-setting into the head.  Also, I have had two bikes with aftermarket carbs and am satisfied with how they perform.  I say they are worth a shot at least, but @Frank Angerano and@06kfx440 have much more experience than i do.

Posted
4 hours ago, Frank Angerano said:

Good idea by rebuilding.   Nothing like the real deal. If you need any help let us know.  Take a compression reading and see how that goes.   Maybe just valve seals might be in order.   

gotta get the proper adapter for my compression tester - the universals got dry rot :) . Its been over 30 years since I used it.. I got an 'All Balls ' rebuild kit directly from the Suzuki dealer. Now I got to wait to find a manual to get the settings.

6 hours ago, 06kfx440 said:

I would say for your best bet, buy oem. You can't go wrong. Off shore carbs work but you'll never truly dial it in.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

Well I went to the dealer and he suggested the All Balls rebuild kit so I picked one up

Posted
4 hours ago, JacobSlabach said:

if you replace the valve seals, I would recommend new valves as well as the old ones sometimes have a hard time re-setting into the head.  Also, I have had two bikes with aftermarket carbs and am satisfied with how they perform.  I say they are worth a shot at least, but @Frank Angerano and@06kfx440 have much more experience than i do.

oood points Jacob Tx

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Wow thats great.  What did you wind up doing on that.  You have to be super careful with that situation  to not bark the corner off. If you can’t get a screw that fits then carefully drill it out and use a small screw with a nut and lock washer.  

Posted

used a electricians tri tap to gradually learn it's threads -it's all good. I put it on this morning and the blue smoke is gone but the carbs popping (lean?) and reving too high with the idle adjuster not even touching the cam. This is where I ask for help. Attached a small clip of her purring. Off to town but going to bring back some refreshments and work on it this afternoon. Hopefully one of you fine gentlemen will have a solution for me..Cheers

Posted

Adjusting the carburetor won’t be difficult. It’s just a matter finesse.  What did you set the fuel air mixture screw at ? It should be in the range of 1-3/4 turns out from a snug tight position as a starting point. Then slowly turn the fuel air mixture screw out until the engine starts to rev up. Keep going until the rev starts to break up a bit or reach its best point  then turn the screw back Just a hair. 

If the bike is revving high lower the idle screw to a happy spot and see how it runs. 

 

 

Posted

That's the problem, the idle cam isn't touching the adjustment screw but it's revving to high...

1 hour ago, Frank Angerano said:

Adjusting the carburetor won’t be difficult. It’s just a matter finesse.  What did you set the fuel air mixture screw at ? It should be in the range of 1-3/4 turns out from a snug tight position as a starting point. Then slowly turn the fuel air mixture screw out until the engine starts to rev up. Keep going until the rev starts to break up a bit or reach its best point  then turn the screw back Just a hair. 

If the bike is revving high lower the idle screw to a happy spot and see how it runs. 

 

 

 

Posted

1.5  / 1.75 turns approximately. Took it for a boot yesterday and it is very responsive to the throttle and idles about 800(by ear) so I think I'm good ? I'll do a little vid today.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Atomusthenes
      I would appreciate being pointing in the correct direction for a wiring diagram and or schematics of the 88 Honda FourTrax 300 4x4 if anybody has any knowledge of how to test the ignition system stator and CDI I don't know if the voltage regulator probably and also the FCU I put a new ignition in it it is a cheap aftermarket one doesn't have the correct plugs but has the correct wiring scheme I get power  the neutral light comes on and the oil light stays on it turns over but I have no spark
    • By Memphis
      Not sure if in right place but here goes
      My 300 is lacking power only reaching 30mph and struggling uphill everything else seems ok other that this problem cleaned all fuel new filter pan and all new fuel pump and spark plug full oil change is there anything I am missing
      ps It is auto and does noy seem to want to get in another gear 5200 rpm at 30mph
       
      Regards
    • By beast6228
      I've been trying to piece this Lakota 300 back together, slowly. It's been a rabbit hole however. I replace one thing, then it leads to replacing other things. Anyway, When I got this thing I noticed that the hose coming off the camshaft cover wasn't attached to anything, it was just hanging loose. (It's literally just a foot long hose attached to nothing) I figured since it was venting the head it would be ok and I am sure it is.
      However, last night I was looking at the service manual and noticed that it mentioned that this atv has a crankcase breather tube as well. Mine does not have one, so I looked at Partzilla and looked at the parts diagram and sure enough, it's definitely supposed to have one. The problem however is, the service manual does not show how it hooks up and the parts diagram only shows the exploded view of the assembly. I just find that kind of strange, nowhere in the manual does it show how it connects. Does it have it connector, attach to a nipple? It just doesn't say and it bothers me that there is a hole there without anything attached to it.  If anyone has a Bayou 300 or Lakota 300 with an intact breather vent system and could possibly take some clear photos of it or know how it connects I would be very grateful. I have searched high and low and cannot find any information on it.
       
      Thanks


    • By Ajmboy
      View File 1986-2006 Kawasaki Bayou 300 service manual
      This service manual is for a 1986-2006 Kawasaki Bayou 300.
      Adding to downloads library.
      Submitter Ajmboy Submitted 05/11/2018 Category Kawasaki ATV  
    • By P_syko
      Are the cheap tires from Amazon any good? I know nothing last forever, but don’t want them to dry rot in a year. 
×
×
  • Create New...