Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
Similar Tagged Content
Hi all, I was gifted this Bayou but she's been sitting quite some time. It won't crank using the factory start button but when I jumper the starter solenoid it cranks but there is no spark. The key has power coming in on the white wire and when turned on supplies power to the brown wire coming out.
I guess I should start with testing the pickup? I heard I may be able to jumper the wires coming from the pickup with an LED bulb and it will flash? I noticed in the manual that it should have around 110 ohms resistance so I'll check that as well. One thing I noticed was that the starter circuit relay has power on one of the black wires with the key on- this doesn't seem normal as I'm assuming the black wires are grounds? I think one of them comes from the start switch, travels through the starter circuit relay and then grounds the starter relay?
Mine is a 1991 so it has the 7 wire CDI (ignitor) and a 2 yellow wire alternator ( as opposed to the later 3 wire type ) with another 2 wires for the source coils (black & red wires ). The pickup wires are blue and black I do believe. Any help appreciated and yes I will test the pickup ASAP.
I'm trying to understand how the system works and I don't understand what the yellow / red wire from the kill switch does- I assume it gets grounded when the kill switch is "on" and therefore grounds the CDI so it can't activate the ignition coil? I noticed in the diagram that that yellow / red wire looks like it may be grounded by the ignition key switch when in the "off" position?
I also don't have 12v power at any of the wires going into the CDI- doesn't the CDI need to be powered? I also read on this forum that someone used a GM HEI module in place of the factory CDI just to test it for spark- does anyone have any info on that?
I hope I'm not missing something simple!
Here is a link to the diagram for my bike (which was posted by another user): https://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/topic/13742-1988-bayou-220-lost-spark/?tab=comments#comment-101193
Any help appreciated!
Just was given a 220 bayou, turns over and was wired by a crazy mouse on drugs helped by a committee of politicians taking advice from lil green folk from Mars! This is going to be fun. Claimed the stator was bad. My other project is an old lakota, died driving with no spark and has sat for a bit due to building a house n life! In other words,I may need lots of advice!
By Brother Buddy Gardner
Hello everyone! I recently purchased this quad for a mere 300.00 and it is pretty clean for the year. I bought it from a guy who bought it in a storage unit. He didn’t know anything about it. I got it home and noticed it did not have an ignition coil for the spark plug. I bought the ignition coil, a new battery, new CDI box, new starter relay, new safety neutral relay, new carb and so on... I got it to turn over, but when I pull the plug and check for spark I have nothing.. it has a non factory starter button that works when I push it and turns the engine over no matter if the key or stop switch is on or off..not sure what that’s all about, but it does turn over..just no spark at the plug. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
By Tom Pavlak
Hi Everyone - Need some help.
Got a nice little 220...clean machine. wiring is a mess. I have a diagram however, the one I have has 4 wires coming from the ignition switch not 2 like mine. So, I cant trace wires properly.
There is a white one that runs to the Solenoid, and a brown wire...from the Ignition...I dont know where its supposed to go. Also, on the Solenoid, there are 3 wires..W to ignition, B to start relay and B/Y runs up to the front of the machine...and is not plugged into anything...and there isnt a "Mate" missing it. How do they plug into the 4 open shovels by the 20A fuse?
I'm pretty sure my Lights and start switch/Lights are correct.
Problem I cant get anything...new battery...cant get the start button to work, cant get any power to the lights or switches...so I know something is not grounded or..
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
By Michael Rogers
Ok, another newbie post here. Checking this stuff out in issues with lost compression. Wondering if anyone can tell by the pics and video of the cam is good, and whether you can see anything visibly with the valves and timing gear.
Any input would be a great help. Been researching youtube videos, but just not sure.
2000 Bayou 220
I could test the exhaust, it looked like it was opening, closing and seating ok, but not sure about the intake.
CAM - looks like some wear on the outer ridges on both in spots, and one lobe to me looks kind of weird, but I don't know.
picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters. these are great light weight little quads.
have a strange one for you. the quad will NOT start in neutral. it will start in first.
if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either. that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can.
id like to carry out whatever repair is needed. i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram.
any help appreciated! thank you.
i need to add something. it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral.
so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral. the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
New to Quadcrazy, Has any Yamaha owners had similar issue?
1987 Yamaha YFM 350 Starts on Pull, but just spins on starter, and won't start.
'96 Cherokee here and right now I'm dealing with a no start after a few weeks of suspicious symptoms. She's been driven a lot less over the past year and about a month ago she began starting a little slow. I've got an oversized battery in there so usually she cranks right up no problem. I started monitoring batt voltage and saw around 12.04 V with engine off and 14.10 V or so running. Right before I get the new battery I head to Advance and they run a battery/alternator test. Kid tells me my batt is bad but alternator is still good.
So I lay out the $ and install the same size 34N EverStart Maxx 800 cca from Wally's and the slow start persists. Measuring the new battery with engine off yields consistent readings of just under 12.7 V, so for the past few weeks I began charging the batt at 2A which seemed to help. A few days ago I venture out for an errand and the engine doesn't restart to get me back home. I get no clicks or cranking at all with a key turn. Batt measures 12.67 V at the terminals. Dash gauges seem to react with the key on, voltmeter reading ~11.5 V, although I'm not sure how accurate that is. Fuel pump pressurizes.
Something that happened right after battery change out, which may or may not help in diagnosing the problem, is that my pass side headlight only illuminated half way while the driver side stayed full bright. I have an LMC Truck aftermarket headlight wiring harness giving 55/100w low high beam. It's the kind where you run the lights straight off the battery through additional relays. Had to tinker with the light harness a bit to get the new batt in and may have compromised a connection? Maybe a ground? Either way the pass headlight started showing full bright after only 1 or 2 occurrences and has been right ever since. With my alternator testing good and a new battery I wondered if maybe a loose connection was draining my voltage. I was in the middle of testing batt V connected vs. disconnected over time but this no start happened before I could get it done.
Last thing to mention is that recently I've been removing both my fuel pump and starter relays for security reasons. The way it's acting now is exactly like when trying to start with both relays removed. Being that the fuel pump is pressurizing should I consider testing the starter relay? Other than that could I have caused some kind of part failure by removing and reinstalling the relays maybe around 5-6 times over the last month?
Hi all, bike does start with the electric start mostly, but the battery was weak and wouldnt start it the other day so went to use the pull start, to say its hard is an understatement first of all you gotta do a little jiggling about til it catches then pulling it takes some effort now i know im not the strongest fella in the world but this is so much harder than it should be.
It does start of the pull just to get the engine to initailly turn is so hard any ideas why its happening or how to fix this,
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.