Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Colby Calk

1998 Yamaha Warrior 350 No Spark

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I recently got a 98 warrior 350 that 'needed the carb adjusted' but the reality is it has no spark. I have a new spark plug, plug wire, ignition coil, battery, and cdi box. I checked continuity and took apart and inspected the starter/kill/light switch on the handle bar, and it all looks brand new and checked out. The key switch seems to be working properly, as when off, nothing works, but when switched on, lights and electric starter button work. It turns over fine, and as I just stated, all the lights work. I took all the plastics off and traced all the wires, and only one had a small cut in it, but it was only through the rubber sheathing, not the wire itself (the blue one coming from the stator). I cleaned some grounds, made sure both relays work, and still nothing. I pulled the stator cover and looked at the stator itself, and it looks great. No broken wires or connectors or anything. Still, no spark. I'm at a loss. Where do I go next? Any help is appreciated.

Edited by Colby Calk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Hey @Colby Calk and welcome to Quadcrazy. 

After everything you’ve explained i honestly feel the stator is bad.  You looked at the stator coil and said it looks good. Only half the stators that go bad are visibly noticeable.  Some of the failures happen inside the coils.   So having said that you can test the stator coil with an electrical tester.   If you have one it’s a pretty simple test. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you know the procedure to test the stator? I've read that the wire colors are different on each year model so it's hard to find the exact test.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It’s easy.  Locate the stator wires. They should be three wires going into the engine side cover on the left side of the bike.  Total of five wires go into the engine cover.  Three go to the stator and should be either all yellow or all white and the other two are for the pick up coil.   

Testing :  The tester is set on ohms/continuity setting.  Unplug the stator from the harness.  First thing to do is connect one of the tester leads to a good ground on the bike frame.  Take the second test lead and put it on one of the three stator wires at a time. Look at the tester and see if you get any readings. If so that’s a bad sign.  Do the same for all three wires.  If they give you a continuity reading from wire to ground then it’s bad.   

Second test:  Test leads are going to go from each of the stator wires test the first one to the second one and then so on and so on. Your tester should show numbers from each wire to wire.  They should be very close to each other.  Write them down and then check the manual, it will show you the exact number range it should be in.  If that number is not within the specified range then it’s not producing properly. 

If you need that page I will look it up for you.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As of now, the bike has a new stator, voltage regulator, new cdi box, plug, plug wire, ignition coil, battery, the switches all work properly, battery is good, lights all work, relays work, fuse isn't blown, I'm at a total loss. Still no spark. Tried grounding it to many places and nothing. I know the plug and wire and everything work because I tested them on a different bike. I have no clue where to go from here. Is there maybe a low oil cutoff sensor? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Was the cdi an oem or aftermarket? Aftermarket CDI’s do not work well so keep that in mind.  

Was the stator coil a match as far as plugs ? 

Have you checked that the ignition switch is good? 

And have you tested the run and stop switch for any faults?  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The new cdi is aftermarket, but it was tested on a different bike to confirm it works. New stator was an exact match and tested good with the multimeter. And all the switches work correctly on the multimeter. It cranks over, it gets gas, the lights turn on and off like they should.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Was the different bike the same bike ? Wiring harnesses are different from on another.  So be sure of that.  Have you checked all grounds and lastly changed the regulator/rectifier?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The only other thing I can think of is the neutral safety switch but that should stop it from cranking as well. Try to put the old cdi back in and see what happens.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Dra O
      posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
      -fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
      -along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
      -I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
      -can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
      -it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
      -I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm  OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
      -last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
      -any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
    • By barracuda420
      Hi, I'm new to ATV/UTV's and am looking for any advice that would help to repair my 2018 Ranger 500.  I got it from an insurance auction and have never owned one before.
      It looks like it was sunk deep.  Found rocks and sand in the roof, milky oil in the air filter box, water in the fuse box, etc.
      So far, I've cleaned the air box out, vacuumed most of the rocks and sand, checked the engine, trans and diff casings for cracks/leaks.
      The battery would not charge while connected so I know there is some short somewhere...probably the wet fuse box.
       
      I plan on drying out the fuse box and all connectors with a hairdryer tomorrow, check the fuses, remove/dry out the ECM and disassemble/clean the air intake.  Then install the battery and see if i can get it to key on and see what kind of lights I get.
      Need to know what to expect with the engine/trans...
      Thanks.
       
    • By Dwight Williams
      Hey everyone, I've been scratching my head over this for most of the day.  I bought a couple of Bayou 220's, got them running (they've both been sitting), and started tweaking and fixing small things.  One of them is mostly done, the other had an aftermarket carb on it and I've been trying to sort that out.
       
      Anyway, while adjusting the carb it died a few times, I restarted and moved on until it died and wouldn't restart.  I figured maybe I'd flooded it or something - after further attempts I realized I had no spark.  Since I have two identical machines I have many parts at my disposal.  I've swapped the CDI, spark plug and coil with no luck.  I have good resistance readings from the stator and pick up (135 and 110 respectively),  I don't have a peak voltage meter but I measure around 53VAC on the stator when cranking.  I have a 4 wire stator, not an alternator like the newer ones.  Grounds look good, I've checked the kill switch by verifying that it and the ignition switch grounds the black/yellow wire to the CDI.  I can turn the engine slowly and see the pickup short the meter as well, seems normal right?  So far everything I've checked looks the same on both machines.  I've got the service manual and wiring diagrams.  Do these readings make any sense?  I'm obviously missing something but I'm stumped.  thanks!
    • By Mike Johnson
      Does anyone know what the 3rd item is behind the battery on this ATV ? I know 1 is the,  solenoid1 is the CDI box, what is the 3rd.
    • By Jeff Comstock
      Ok, so I had no spark issues and foundy coil was bad. Bought a caltric coil, put it on and fired right up...for bout 20 minutes then it backfired once and again, no spark. I put it on my buddies 300 and it runs.  Checked my cdi the same thing, but still no spark. Now I got my old coil and  was ohming it and got reading of .01 on primary and 11.89 from POS to plug ( meter set on 20k ) new coil reads same primary but 12.83. what gives? It tests bad but runs my buddies 300, helllllllpppp
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By quadtech62
      I have a 02 Warrior i am trying to build a wiring harness i have looked in the manual and  i am confused... the pick up has 2 wires.  W/R W/G The source rotation coil has 2 wires. One is Red other is white/blue. The manual shows the  the white and blue wire connected to the w/g  right after the stator... so why is these 2 wires connected?  Does not show w/b wire at cdi 
      i have looked at many options with no luck if someone has a 2002-2004 warrior and can take a pic of the wires and location at cdi i would really appreciate it. Thanks
    • By Chase Cook
      I have a Yamaha 350 in at once to try to fire up but won't. It's getting gas fire air and it has a lot of compression but still struggles to start check the timing it's top dead center valves are good valves are adjusted everything's working but won't fire I put my hand over the carb suck in gas and it tries to but it makes a lot of black smoke. Also when I put my hand over do you carb and tried to start it there's black black nasty stuff in the gas. So I don't know if it's trying to burn too much or what it is the gas tank clean and it anything to do with the gas it's with it firing. Took the spark plug out and it's pure black. What is dried up black not nasty corroded wet looking. Need help to solve the issue
    • By Chase Cook
      I have a 2001 yamaha warrior YFM350x and started to work on it. The person who I got it from put a new top end kit in it. I already took the top end off and checked, brand new still. Had to clean the valves so it can get better compression. Put it back together and turned it over and and made good compression but also had a loud clanking noise at the bottom, put hand over carb and stopped making the noise when I turned it over. And won't start.  I know it is not the top end. Just cleaned it and valves. Need help trying to figure out what's the problem.. thinking it's the crank rod but don't know. If it is the rod can i just get a new rod for it?(would be great if so). Or does it need a hole bottom end . In need of help.
    • By Brad Lawson
      Hello all, I’m working on my sons 99 Yamaha Warrior 350. When I pulled the plastic cover off left side of engine, I can see oil leak at the seal. I pulled the bolt out and then the starter boss(I guess that’s what it’s called?) I can see that the boss doesn’t make contact with the seal. Is there a spacer of some type that slides on to the boss, to make contact with the seal? This seal is held in place with a plate with 3 screws in it. This boss slides into the bearing in the stator. I have been to parts websites and I don’t see what I’m needing. Maybe it’s just the wrong seal?
    • By jerry houston
      Eiger 400 Suzuki runs fine Cook-Out joke face off the handlebars put it back on and will not start now will crank no no spark
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...