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MarkinAR

1993 Kodiak, bad reg/rectifier?

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I don't have a ton of electrical experience, but I think the basic workings of a regulator/rectifier are pretty straight forward.  3 diodes, so 2 power wires and 3 diode wires.  Symptom is relays click on/off, more or less no power, sometimes will work, mostly no electric to switch, can jump solenoid and it runs. 

If i understand a reg/rect correctly, i should have constant resistance one way on each power wire.  So in a total of 12 ohm tests (3 per power wire, one way positive, one neg so 6 for one wire, 6 for the other), i should have 3 resistances one way on each power wire, am I correct? And they should all be reasonably close in resistance?

If i understand the way the reg/rect works correctly, then I have one bad diode as it doesn't read the same as the other 2 and this would be the cause of my issue?

All testing performed on the reg/rect unplugged on workbench, with a Fluke.

Thoughts?

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That is correct you should get the same reading or close to the same.  

Should have 5 wires, three  on one plug (phases) and two on the other plug   (positive and negative)

tester should have a ohm setting with the diode symbol. Take the red test lead put it on the black (negative) wire, take the second test lead and go from each of the three phases and the readings should be the same. Then do the same thing except switch the black test lead to the red (positive) wire and go to the phases again.  They all should be close. Any open/zero reading is a bad diode. 

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Thanks, thought I had it figured out. One diode is not OL, but it's far below the resistance of the other 2. Tells me it's basically shot. 

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Chinese new. Is about $50, decent aftermarket is $150ish. Time to scour the interwebs for one 2nd hand OEM. 

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If it starts when you jump the starter relay but not when you push the starter button, it's prolly the relay.  They are usually pretty cheap..  like 5 dollars

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I would agree Jacob, if there were electricity to the ignition. On this bike it kinda works for a bit and then doesn't at all. Ohm testing showed the reg/rect to be bad. If it were the relay there would be 12V to the switch all the time. 

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So it was a combination of things. Bad regulator was driving the electronics crazy and "on" side of the ignition switch was bad...no continuity. Replaced the regulator with a 2nd hand OEM and borrowed the ignition switch out of my big bear project and all is well. 

I have a feeling the ignition switch was shot because the solenoid lead for the winch was just twisted in. So the solenoid stayed on all the time. Adding a rocker switch for that later tonight so the solenoid is only closed when I ask it to. 

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Purrs like a kitten. When we got it rings had been replaced so it's fairly fresh from a combustion standpoint. Wiring though is a dumpster fire. It's all together now, just have to wrap and secure some wires. Putting front wheel bearings in tonight and the oldest is headed to the woods with it in the morning. It's getting a trial by fire so to speak. 

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Got one side of wheel bearings done in 4 hours and left the other side for another day. What non ATV folks don't realize is that if you keep on riding dry and worn out wheel bearings it welds the outer race to the hub. Good times. 4 friggin hours for one hub. Die grinder, multiple chisels, blood sacrifice. But one side is done....so that's good. 

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Die grinder has become my new best friend.

Wheel bearings and differential fluid/maintenance is often overlooked.  That’s a lot of time spent on one side without loosing your cool though. Let’s hope the other side goes better.   

Good luck.   

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Ha. Adding to the fun, we took it for a stroll down the driveway to find the centrifugal clutch is shot. Thankfully, been there done that. 

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Na. One of the front axles is popping so we'll order some axles before doing the other side. Went ahead and broke the motor open and regrooved the centrifugal clutch. On the plus side though, the thing runs like a top. Hit the starter button and it fires right off. 

Getting there...slowly...

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