2003 Yamaha Raptor 80 Restoration

[Venom 0]

Hi, All

I started this project a while ago.. I have decided to make one thread I can continuously update..

So , here we go. I got this Raptor 80 in really bad condition.. Rear end frozen, Engine toast, tires dry rotted, tons of rust..etc.. They admitted they beat on it very hard.

Since they do not make these with a drive shaft anymore I decided to restore it from top to bottom..

These are photos of when I got it home.

Next up, the tear down..

First, I needed to tear it down and determine if the rear end was still good... As we all know... That is where it would be cost prohibitive to restore if it is trashed..

Got it completely stripped down and I lucked out... The rear Drum brake was caked solid inside with dried mud. That was causing the rear end to lock up. Took off the rear brakes and the rear end spun perfectly smooth.

Once I got it all stripped apart I needed to take the finish off all the parts. I am going to be powder coating the frame and many parts.. Once the finish is off each part it will need to be sandblasted to white metal .. The guy I use for powder coating gives me a hefty discount if I bring the parts to him ready to go.

You could just sand blast, but that would take a long time to get the finish off. First I used Aircraft Paint Remover.. That stuff is pretty toxic Goggles and Resperator are required. That quickly gets you down to the metal... Then you can sand blast to white metal pretty quickly...

I had another thread I had started about a problem with the tear down... It has some great info .... here is the link... It is about removing the frame bushings. ....

 

https://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/topic/14209-raptor-80-frame-bushings/?tab=comments#comment-104702

[Venom 0]

This was another post i had made elsewhere:

Hi All,

Rebuilding a 2003 Yamaha Raptor 80.. Currently taking apart the rear diff. To get out the Pinion gear you need a Spanner Socket.. It looks like the part number for the Yamaha tool is no longer good.
Anybody know who sells the correct Spanner socket? Yamaha lists it as 32mm but I don't see how that is possible. Pin to Pin on the nut is 48mm.. Any help is greatly appreciated..

After no response I posted the following:

Ok, So it would appear that this question has been asked many times on many forums for many years and no one has ever answered this question... After many hours of searching I have found the correct information!

First pay no attention to the Yamaha part number in the Raptor 80 service manual, it is incorrect. The correct Yamaha Part number for the Ring Nut Wrench / Socket is YM-38404. But Yamaha no longer has this tool to ship. You have to order it directly from the company that makes it.. K&L Supply Company. The K&L part number is KL-0530R This number along with the Yamaha part number are on the tool itself. But when you call them they go by the part number 35-38404. That is the number you give them in order to buy the part. It cost $45 + Shipping. This tool will work on the rear end pinion gear and also on the rear axle hub. It is needed if you want to change worn out bearings. I am including pics of the rear pinion with the nut as well as the tool.
Here is a link to K&L

Well guess you don't get the link since I am new here... Go to klsupply.com and use part number 35-38404

Ok, getting out the Spanner nus in the rear end was a job, but the frame bushings were the worst... See the details in the links above.

Now the parts were ready for sandblasting and then to be dropped off at the Powder Coaters.

I am going with a Translucent Candy Apple Red Metallic.. First they lay down a chrome powder coating and then powder coat over that with the candy apple red.

Ok, parts are back...... These are all the parts I had done... The photo does not do the color justice. Outside in the sunlight it sparkles and looks like a candy apple.

[Venom 0]

First thing to do is to put in the new Frame Bushings.. I have a 20 ton press, but it would be pretty awkward to use for the bushings.. So, I made a bushing insert tool. It is 7/16" Threaded Rod, 3 - 7/16" Nuts 4 - 7/16" Regular Washers and 4 - extra thick 7/16" Fender Washers. The thicker and stronger the washers the better. I greased up the bushings and they went in with some wrenching. The last 1/8" was tough to get in, but the tool worked...

I got the front arm installed and I think I want to buy new shocks..

Can anyone recommend some shocks they have used and like?

[Venom 0]

Hi All,

I started stripping the engine down while I am waiting on some parts for the frame.  I ran into my first problem...   I cannot get the gear selector shaft out...   I took out the circlip.. Then the push lever behind the circlip is supposed to slide off, then you take a pin out of the shaft and then two washers and a ball bearing... The problem is the push lever seems to have fused itself to the gear selector shaft... I do see some rust.. I have spent the last 2 hours trying to take it off  and nothing has worked... gently prying, heating and tapping to  try and rock it back and forth...

Anyone have any ideas?... It is really on there...    

[Venom 0]

Took me a long time to get out that shift lever. It was rusted solid... Kept spraying it with PB Blaster and worked on it evey hour or so in between other things I was working on. After a couple of days it finally broke free.

[Venom 0]

I neglected this thread... I finished this build and I have tons of photos... I will post everything soon, but here is what she looked like finished,

[MarkinAR 112]

Great work, quite the improvement.